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Could this be what blew up my engine? :)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HotRod28AR, Sep 13, 2007.

  1. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    On a less mechanical note, and more of a business note, here's whats in my mind.
    Does this builder do his own work, or hire new guys to work in his shop?
    We have a guy here in Tucson, smart as hell with engines, great reputation in the past. However, over the last few years I've had 4 of 4 engines die within 3 months due to internal failures. They warranty minimal if anything. All customer engines, not mine.
    The last one was funny, when I heard Larrys shop built it, I said "It'll be dead in a week"
    It was.
     
  2. hivolt76528
    Joined: Dec 27, 2005
    Posts: 61

    hivolt76528
    Member

    I could be wrong , but in my neck of the woods you cannot buy a good rod and stroker crank for 500 much less a good set of pushrods and all the misc. parts. I think you need to jerk this motor out of that shop and find a good friend or Hell even get a book and do it yourself !!A decent set of rod bearings are 55 to 60 bucks , mains are about the same that is already over 100 of the 500 --I don't know what sort of stroke you are runnung , not much I imagine by the cubic inches but even a cheapie crank on E Bay is 200 for anything over stock and up to a 4.300 stroke and I wouldn't trust one of those cranks for a demo derby car . you add a good single rod into the mix and you are + another 100 or so then you throw in a victor or felpro set of gaskets at a reasonable 75to 90 bucks --he isn't even thinking of the oil pump and with as much metal as went through it --I wouldn't trust it in a "high dollar " engine !! now for the 1500 to tear down and assembly --that would be a fair price IF all the necessary clearances haven't already been , or supposed to have been accomplished . but all he is doing is tear down ( that takes about an hour) some clean up and I would generously put that at 4 hours because of all the metal , check the crank clearances and assemble --and again I would generously say 6 hours on that --so if his shop rate is a little over 100 bucks an hour , then I guess that's not so bad but it is too steep for my bankbook .
     
  3. arkracing
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 891

    arkracing
    Member

    $1500 to disassemble and re-assemble?! who is the shop? - so I know never to use them.

    Seriously I'd like to know who the shop is here in CT - if you don't want to say it on the thread, could you PM me?
    I don't know of very many shops in the area with an engine dyno either - perhaps this shop is located in Stonington, CT?
     
  4. I Drag
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 883

    I Drag
    Member

    Dude, not to kick you when you are down, please consider this constructive advice:

    If you are running a motor with a solid cam, and you notice the valve lash increasing AT ALL (especially with the locks still tight!), shut it off!! This is an early warning that something is wrong. This should never happen by itself. Investigate.

    Of course now you know this.
     
  5. Kilroy
    Joined: Aug 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,232

    Kilroy
    Member
    from Orange, Ca

    And the shop should have told you this...

    It's time to get a second opinion before you throw anymore money at the shop that might have done shoddy work.

    At least everything will be on the up and up then.
     
  6. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member


    *ding, ding, ding........

    "what's he win Pat?"
     
  7. arkracing-yes this shop is in Stonington, you know the name haha....they do all the dirt track racer's engines in the area. As far as the material costs, I was given a "break" on those. Just the crank should have been probably $700 or so. So $500 for all parts is cool. I just called and got the total of $2250 for parts and labor. Wonderful isn't it? And as far as setting the valve lash back when the locks are still tight, yes, I know not to do that now...I just did what I was told when I described the situation to the builder. If i told you what I'm up to so far on this mill including the cost of speed parts, the initial build cost and now this, you would laugh your ass off.
    -Dean
     
  8. Nocero
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 489

    Nocero
    Member

    If I was you I'd get every single part he has out of the shop right now. Photo them and pay to have a reputable shop write up a failure analysis for you, then see if the shop is willing to help you if it is determined to be their fault. Second I'd consider a road trip if I was you, I'll give you contact info on one of the best BBF builders around. He will treat you fair and it will be right.
     
  9. arkracing
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 891

    arkracing
    Member

    Just out of curiosity are you dealing with a guy by the name of Ken over there?

    I had the same thing happen to me (different machine shop, similar circumstances)
     
  10. A Chopped Coupe
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 1,133

    A Chopped Coupe
    Member

    Dean,

    You said,

    "So basically I have no freaking clue. I'm putting it on the dyno this time and he thinks that should give a better clue as to what went wrong, but shouldnt you really be able to tell just from taking it apart? BTW I'm getting charged $500 for a new crank, 1 rod, pushrods and misc. parts, which is a nice break, but an additional $1500 for assembly/dissasembly and then $800+ for dyno".

    If your engine builder has no clue as to why this happened and he says that buy putting it on th dyno "HE THINKS" that should give a better clue as to what went wrong. This guy is totally blowing smoke!!!! This so called Circle track guy sounds like a real piece of work and just because the shop builds a few circle track motors................when was last time he built a 385FE Ford, or were you the first.

    What kind of warranty did this guy give you, or was it an "out the door" warranty or 10 minutes................which ever came first. This shop has a serious problem and my guess is they don't know their head from a hole in the ground. Just because they can build a dirttrack/circle track motor that only has to live for one event or night in no way qualifies them build a high HP street motor....................their are good shops and people around, but my guess is that you stumbled into the wrong place at the wrong time.

    If I were in your shoes, I would ask for an explanation in writing of why the motor went bad, ask for the failed parts back, then take the motor out of his place and look for someone to find out why it went bad. It seems that leaving it with this guy will eventually cost you even more money.

    Personally, this shop and guy sounds like a flake!

    My guess is that with the money you have spent you could have gone and bought a Ford 514 Crate motor that does put out over 600HP and close to 670 ft lbs of torque, had a warranty and been $$$$$ of dollars ahead.

    Didn't mean to rant and rave, but I see this type of thing going on more and more and knowone does anything..................At the least, I would call your State/City and find out where to file a complaint on this shop or even take him to small claims court.................if knowone is held accountable then this type of thing will continue to go on...............for me, it is not acceptable.

    IMHO
     
  11. Mercmad
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,383

    Mercmad
    BANNED
    from Brisvegas

    Everyone else has covered the points here: 1/ you have bought a Dud.
    2/ the engine rebuilder has made a mistake.
    3/ He expects you to pay for his mistake.
    4/ get your engine and parts out ..Now!
    5/ cut your losses and get a reputable builder to repair what you have left.
    6/ get as much "evidence' from an experienced 'engineer' not just a 'mechanic' for a failure analysis.

    My advice is..Sue them. You paid money for a product, the product is faulty there fore you have a legal right to recover costs.
     
  12. Did you ever cut open the oil filter? You probably already know this, but don't use a hacksaw (I have seen morons do that...). I use a tinsnips. The oil filter will only hold so much contamination before it bypasses it - unless you use a race oil filter without a bypass.

    Second that on valve lash changing on an engine with a solid lifter valvetrain - if the adjester screw/lock didn't move and the lash changed, something serious is going on...

    Did the oil pressure change? Valvetrain issues can cause a oiling system problem - I had a 429 that had a bent pushrod, allowing a lifter to come out of its bore, and thus it had very little oil pressure.

    Judging by the contradictory info the shop told you, I agree the guy is a flake. I'd find someone else who DOES know their stuff. I realize this is easier said than done, but how much does it really cost you after your built engine has failed/blown up?
     

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