Question: Wheel Adapters

I just read and scanned through the archive on this topic.

My questions that didnt get answered in those threads are these:

1) For the guys that are using them, did you use the cast or billet?

2) Is there a safe limit to how much space you should allow? (1", 1.5", 2" etc.)

3) How much of a concern is HP and torque if used on the rear wheels?

4) How can you tell if its just a bolt or a real lug being used?

5) Should there be more concern with safety if its NOT hub centric?

6) On a 1" spacer/adapter, doesnt the original lugs poke past the spacer/adatpter and contact the back of the wheel? If so, do stubby lugs need to be installed in the axles?

Thanks for any help!

 

1) Billet

2) meh 1" - 1.5" would be alright

3) depends on how much you plan on hookin to the ground...***uming you arnt talkin of a big #'s drag motor or you would have just bought axles

4) bolts = hex head, lugs = round, square, shouldn't matter much if you get a bolt of sufficient grade strength wise although the press in style of lugs makes things a bit easier .

5) if not hub centric it should have a tapered counter bore and use a lug nut of the same taper to align...balance

6) if your original lugs poke out past the adapter screw a nut on, hack off whatever hangs out, grind bevel, unscrew nut, file off any sharp edges

edit: oh yeah 5) or use lug nuts that have a "shank" (not sure of right term) that is the same as the diameter of the wheels hole so that it slips in and aligns that way...like some Centerline wheels

 

I have used billet adapters, mine were hub centric (hub piloted whatever), I have used 1 1/2", 1 1/4" and 1", now I'm lookin' for a 3/4" (damn). I might use a 2" spacer, maybe, but after that I gotta believe that you should fix it some other way. Yeah, if the axle studs stick out you have to cut them off, preferably slightly shorter than the thickness of the spacer.

This all ***umes you aren't trying to race the car their on, I expect a sanctioning body would have rules to limit spacers though.

 

I've run the 1" billet adapters on the street for about 1500 miles. No issues. Just cruising with a small block, I wouldn't use them with big power and slicks...

 

Thanks for the input so far guys. And the replies so far are just as I thought. Billet and under 2". I hadnt thought to look at the back for a round lug or hex bolt. I just ***umed they were cast in with the adapter, rather than pressed in, and couldnt be seen, duh! haha

As far as cutting off the axles original lug bolts, would that make them weaker? Whats the theory behind long lug bolts for drag cars? I would think that if they require longer ones its because theyre stronger in some way(??)
Maybe its just so that if the lug nuts are loose itll take longer for the nuts and wheel to come off, providing a bit of safety?

Thanks

 

It would only weaken the lug stud if you heated it to cut it (don't use a torch).

My understanding of why the tech guys in any sanctioning body want longer lug studs is so they can tell you have enough to get a full nut worth of thread engagement. The only place I have seen where a fair amount of extra lug stud is a benefit is where you have to change tires quickly, and then the ends have a taper machined into them and they act as pilots (alignment pins).

 

billet and only billet, you wouldn't want your wheel fallin off

 

Be sure to also use thread lock on the studs. I have 1 1/4" and no problems so far.

 

NHRA, Technical Service Rep. advised me you cannot run wheel adapters, however; you can run billet wheel spacers if you meet the qualifications for wheel studs, in the General Information Section of the NHRA Rule Book. By the way there are two rule books, one for nostalgic cars and one for new cars.....

 

Cool guys, this has been a great help! Excellent info from all! Youve answered all of my questions.

Hotrodbrad touched on #5 with some great advice, however the question still remains:

5) Should there be more concern with safety if its NOT hub centric?

In other words, would the spacers that are not hub centric have more of a possiblity for failure?

It seems fine to me as long as everything is tight and thread loc is used, as suggested. Right?

Thanks again hambers

 

If they're billet, no. But it is far more likely to have them off center. When you use that type of spacer it is like putting alloys on a front wheel drive car, only worse. As there are two sets of lugs, the likelihood of it being off center is doubled due to tolerance stacking. Not saying it can't be done (way too many out there for that to be the case) you can snug the lugs up in the appropriate pattern and then torque them in sequence (kinda like a cylinder head). But I have never had any luck with non hub centric stuff (alloy) staying put, especially on the drive wheels. But then I used to race front wheel drive stuff, and rally the **** out of my daily anyhow.

 

Wheel adapters:

1) Make sure they're not cast.

2) Press studs are fine.

3) Do your math before you order.

4) AVOID http://www.motorsport-tech.com/ OUT OF THE WEST COAST LIKE THE PLAGUE! These guys build nice stuff, but they are IMPOSSIBLE to deal with if you ever want customer service. You'll buy 4 adapters with 5 lugs per adapter, get 14 lug nuts and they'll screw you around and thell you it's YOUR fault!

 

Oh, hub centric going to make them more safe... just easier to mount and center.

 

Ive also seen hub centric spacer ring inserts. Basically fills in the space between the non hub centric spacer and the hub.
Seems like it would do the same job of centering, but being an extra "loose" part seems odd. Or friction would wear it down and become sloppy?
Its most likely fine once everything is tightened down I would ***ume.

 

I had a set of spacer rings made at a local machine shop (out of a hard plastic, delrin?) they worked great, but the price difference I have seen in the spacers that are and the spacers that aren't is cheaper than the hub centric rings. They shouldn't wear, if you are changing tires like it's NASCAR maybe, but once their on and the lugs are tight, they shouldn't move. I stuck mine in with epoxy (they only fit the one set of wheels I had).

 

I've got some old cast aluminum adapters up front to bolt Chevy pattern wheels onto '40 Ford hubs on the front of a '32 Ford pickup. I haven't driven it yet. How dangerous are the cast adapters? I'm thinking about getting some new wheels that'll bolt on without adapters, but I might have to wait a while. Are the cast adapters only a problem when they're used on the rear? Thanks!

 

Wow! You guys just answered every question I had about wheel adapters and my own specific situation. I want to put Team III G***er style spoke wheels (5x4 3/4) on my 40 Ford Truck front hubs, for around town, and put the original 16" Ford Rims on other times, did a word search on my issues and questions, and here it is, all laid out. I bought my truck in mid-November 2007 from Brian Thomas of Utah, and he advised that this was the place to go for all info related to hot rods. This H.A.M.B. site and you guys are wonderful. THank you.