HELP!! Carb problems

I can not keep my Carter YF from flooding. I spent the better part of last night rebuilding the whole thing. I put it back together and it is still flooding.

My first thought was to adjust the float. That didn't work. I did that 6 more times. Nothing.

My next thought was that there was to much fuel pressure. I restricted the amount of fuel coming into the carb. It still dumped gas until it just died.

Any ideas,

Or any good leads on where to get a good 2 barrel for cheap. I have an adapter for a 4 bolt base to a 2 bolt intake.

 

Might be a hole in the float. Put it in a pan of water and heat the pan. A leak will show as bubbles when you sink the float. Don't overheat.

 

Is the float br*** or plastic/phenol? Test a br*** float by submerging it in hot water and looking for the bubbles. A pressure regulator is better at controlling the fuel flow than restricting the line. Mechanical or electric fuel pump?

Flatman

 

I'm pretty sure the float is ok. There are no holes in it and it seems working properly.

Flatman... It is a br*** float. When I was restricting the line is was just to test and see if pressure was causing the problem. The fuel pump is the original one to the engine so I'm going to say mechanical.

 

Oh yeah the car has a 59 235 in it. Thought that might be a good thing to know!

 

The pressure will be the same after the restriction.
It just takes a little longer to equal the pressure after the restriction, but it ain't very long.

Just a shot in the dark, but Carter AFB's need to have the correct float drop as well as float level.
Perhaps the same is true for your carb and the float is too low.

The little AFB in my 67 Barracuda had too much float drop and the float would stick in the down position and dump gas on the engine.
Cured when I adjusted float drop.

What happens is the float drops down so low that it's pressing sideways on the float tab instead of up and the float hangs up.

Measure float level with the float upside down.

Measure float drop with the float right side up.

 

I used the measuring tool provided with the rebuild kit. Everything checked out with the float level. Thats why I am at a loss.

 

Measure pressure...a recently made or rebuilt pump, just like those for flatheads, is apt to have a later Chevy V8 spring under the diaphragm giving like twice the pressure olde carbs like. As pointed out above, restriction doesn't change pressure til you get to zero...

 

Did you replace the needle and seat? Little piece of something in there preventing it from seating all the way could do it.

 

Everything was replaced. The needle was one of the first things I checked. It is seating just fine.

 

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a good 2 barrel without having to spend 400+ dollars on a new 97

 

Chevy 235 mechanical fuel pumps routinely put out 6-8 lbs and the old carbs do not like a lot of pressure. For example BXOV's Strombergs like 3 lbs. Rottenchesters will take the 6-8 lbs if the float is set correctly. Recommend recheck the float settings again and find out the book fuel pressure settings for the Carter YF and get yourself a holley 1-4 lb fuel pressure regulator and guage. THen you know.

 

Changing carbs isn't going to help you if the pressure is still too high...you gotta kill problems before you start changing parts!
If you want a quick sort-out, hook your carb up to a gravity feed and see how it performs without the pump. Disconnect fuel pump and be real careful of leaks.

 

I'll try the gravity feed.

Here is another question.

If something is stuck in one of the small p***ages restricting or blocking the amount of airflow will the carb **** more gas?

 

Blocked air bleeds in main or idle circuits would richen mix. They mix in air with arriving gas. Possibly blocked bowl vent too, but that would take a serious chunk of crud.

 

It was painted with some ****py gold paint that made a huge sticky mess when I was cleaning it off. It is possible that I missed a hidden bit of gunk in one of those bleeds or vents.

 

MEK my friend, MEK.

 

I HATE that gold paint people put on carbs...looks like Martha Stewart sprayed the thing gold with krylon for the Christmas tree, but the stuff is bulletproof...takes a LONG time with serious stuff to get it all off, then the blasted pigment is a permanent part of $30 worth of carb cleaner. Why do so many people want gold spray-paint carbs???

 

I don't know. It looked awful and just made a huge mess. I soaked all the parts in gas and used 2 cans of carb cleaner, an old tooth brush and a a solid stream of air to blast all of that stuff off. And it is STILL on there in some small areas!