Register now to get rid of these ads!

Drilling through stainless

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by piche582, Sep 23, 2007.

  1. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    Not quite for a tradional rod, but need some help at work. I'm in charge installing some drain valves on one of our fire engines at my work. I need to bore some (4) 1.25 inch holes through a stainless steel panel. Just wondering whats gonna be my best bet at doing this.
     
  2. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Start small with cutting oil, when it is big enough to use a die grinder, that would be my tool of choice. Go slow.
     
  3. tmacracin
    Joined: Aug 23, 2007
    Posts: 825

    tmacracin
    Member

    Find a RIGID dealer and buy there 74007 stainless cutting oil it will be well worth the $15. Also I buy the Lennox/American saw hole saws they work very good. I have spent many hours cutting stainless and thats the best cutting oil I have found. Also keep your speed down
     
  4. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    K, RIGID dealer is out of the question, as I know of none nearby. As for the hole saw, any particular one I should look for? I know of a Lenox dealer where I'm at, but not sure what they carry.
     
  5. Bort62
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 594

    Bort62
    BANNED

    Holesaw should be fine. Just keep your speed low and take your time.

    And keep it lubed. Even WD-40 should be good enough.
     
  6. tmacracin
    Joined: Aug 23, 2007
    Posts: 825

    tmacracin
    Member

    Is there a Acklands or Industrial supply shop around you? They should carry Rigid.
     
  7. tmacracin
    Joined: Aug 23, 2007
    Posts: 825

    tmacracin
    Member

    Sorry its Acklands up here. It would be Grainger in the USA.
     
  8. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    Not a whole lot of industrial supply houses in my area, so I'm limited on stuff unless I feel like driving 1+ hour(s) to one out of the area. I'm going to check with the local store that I know carries alot of Lenox stuff and see what they got. Thanks everyone for your help.
     
  9. Notorious
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 393

    Notorious
    Member

    Also check plumbing, heating, etc. supply stores that cater to the trades.
     
  10. cbreezer
    Joined: Aug 1, 2006
    Posts: 32

    cbreezer
    Member

    Be sure to clamp your panel to a piece of plywood or whatever you have that is soft and substantial enough to be held in a vise.Also in my experience solder flux paste makes a great lubricant for use with hole saws (especially in stainless applications).Use low speed and a light touch when approaching the breakthrough point.
     
  11. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Any decent hole saw will work with a low rpm and coolant.

    Not the No Name Mystery Brand.
     
  12. Knock-out punches are also an option, if they are available and you can access the back side.
     
  13. chilimac
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 127

    chilimac
    Member

    Aircraft supply places carry Boelube,this stuff is available as a solid,paste or liquid.It is the best I have used on stainless and ***anium.
     
  14. dave lewis
    Joined: Dec 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,381

    dave lewis
    Member
    from Nampa ID

    A great trick i learned from the guys down at the harbor is "elmers glue" ( yellow ONLY ).. for some reason the organic components of yellow glue will allow easy drilling/hole sawing of stainless..
    still gotta go slow speed..but it really works...and water clean up is nice!
    try it, you won't believe how well it works..
    dave ;-)
     
  15. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I used to do a lot of work with stainless steel, mainly turning and milling, and you turn it at the same cutting speed as aluminum, if you have decent carbide cutting tools.

    Lower grade cutting tools need a lot less speed, else they just burn up, even with coolant/oil on.

    Strange material to work on, as it cuts like ****er in some ways, but is hard as tool steel in others.
     
  16. flathead fred
    Joined: Jul 18, 2006
    Posts: 298

    flathead fred
    Member

    Depending on how thick the material is I would use a uni-bit, just get a good pilot hole in first. I do this method a lot at work on stainless on fancy yachts. The uni-bit makes a very clean hole. I have several and would be lost without em.

    my $0.02
     
  17. Bort62
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 594

    Bort62
    BANNED

    Yeah actually, as long as it's less than 1/8" thick (what is this, armor plate?) a Unibit is your best bet by far.
     
  18. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I agree on the BoLube. Great stuff. A ch***ie punch would be good if you gan get one. Stainless workhardens. So don't let the cutter slide over the surface. Low speed, high feed. Keep it cutting.
     
  19. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    Ch***is punch or a knock out punch.

    Check an electrical supply house for the latter.

    Sure will leave a NICE,CLEAN hole!

    Drill the pilot hole with slow speed,heavy feed.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.