The guy wants $600 for this w/ ******. I don't know if it runs or not, I think it's too high of a price. But, I don't know jack about flatties...... engines, not girls.... I have to take a trip to his region, so I figured I'd think about buying it.
I base the following on my own experiences, in my own location which is a fairly target rich environment when it comes to flatheads. I've learned that unknown condition flatheads are worth a $100.00 gamble. There are just too many that turn out to be more trouble than they're worth. The one you're looking at has truck water pumps, which have some value on their own. Also has a desirable bellhousing. The head bolts look loosened, which raises a red flag. I might give $150.00 for it.
Like I said, I have no experience with flatheads. If I go look at this, what should I be looking for? I'm ***uming this is something that got pulled out of his truck years back and now he's tired of looking at it in the tool shed.... Someone probably told him to stick it up for that price thinking it was worth something.... I'm inclined to just p*** on it or I might low ball offer him and see what happens.
Not knowing condition, go ahead and low ball him. I had a sweeeeet running, but cracked, complete less carb and one I knew nothing about, and GAVE them both away. J
I'm not real knowledgeable about flathead V8's, but I believe that the EAB heads indicate that this is a 1952 vintage engine. I think some sources list EAB from 1951-53, but I'm pretty sure that they were 1952 only. According to some folks (from posts on the HAMB), the EAB heads are the best flowing of the flattie V8 factory heads. Pull the heads and check for cracks around the valves. Check to make sure it is free and not stuck.
EAB were late '52 and '53. If the guy guarantees it's rebuildable, it's not a bad price. I sold one two years ago (with ******) for $500, but I gave the buyer a money-back guarantee that it was a good, rebuildable core. It eased his mind to have a guarantee for that kind of money, and he was happy.
The trouble with flat heads is; the years of parts - for example the heads - will interchange up and down the years. From the picture - it's POST '49 - no integral bell housing and distributer on the upper right. The transmission appears to be a 5 or 6 speed truck. (with a power take off) But it looks like it doesn't have the right water pumps for a large truck engine. (but they are truck water - we can only see one - pump) The ONLY way I would consider buying it - especially for $600.00 - is if he would allow you to remove BOTH heads and the intake manifold; and examine the insides closer. (even then I would want a complete tear down) If I'm seeing the pan correctly; it's been repainted, which means this engine could have been a "*******" re-build. ('52 heads on a '49 block) Like T-Time says; it better turn over freely, or the price is too high. Go for the "low ball." If he says; - the owner - that it was running when he pulled it out; ANOTHER RED FLAG!!
Flatheads are strange animals, and over many years and possible rebuilds it is almost impossible to identify an 8BA/8CM without tearing the motor down to the crank. First, the transmission is worth...............maybe a boat anchor, $50/75 if it is good condition. So with that said he is asking $525/550. If the motor was running I would say sure, go for it. There are some RED flags as the others have pointed out. First............some of or all of the head bolts seem to be loose...........why?????????????????? Even if the motor turns over (if it doesn't then it may be worth $100 tops) you do not know if it has cracks from the valve seat into the cylinder, or along the pan rail, or in the center main bearing area. If the guy wants $600, tell you will give him $500 less the trans as you don't need it. Then say you are will to give him the $500 if he gives you a bill of sale stating if the motor is cracked (as I mentioned) you can bring him the motor and he will give you back your money. This is your call, but I think the guy should at least tell you why the head bolts are loose...............do you know this person??????????????????? If you want to build a very mild or stock flathead, then a crack from the valve seat into the cylinder can be fixed by pinning it and putting a sleeve in that cylinder. If you want to reallly "hot rod" the motor I would walk away. Here on the West Coast, a good block that has been mag'd and pressure tested is worth minumum (as long as it hasn't been bored out past 3-5/16) of $500 and for one that is std bore with no cracks and has been mag'd and pressure tested you may pay up to $800. It just sounds like this guy is asking way too much for something that may turn out to be a boat anchor. IMHO
The Jalopy Journal
