Voltage Regulator - How can I test & adjust?

I think I have an issue with the voltage regulator in my '54 Chevy. It is a replacement that looks fairly new, but I didn't put it in, so I don't trust it.

How can I test it and adjust it if necessary without having to buy a vintage Sun Volt-Ampere tester?

Thanks,
Jay

 

welll first question does the car have a generator or an alternator?
if it newer rewire with alt, then you would be using this regulator, other wise it is an old non sensing regulator from the 50's
the newr one is from 64 to 72


http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml


only need a volt meter to see when the chargeing starts and stops by measuring the voltage as far as setting those they usually come set pretty darn close for the application, we can go over that when we know what it is regulating


REGULATOR SPECIFICATIONS
Regulator Number: 1118720, 1118725 (Regulators negative ground)
Cutout Relay:
Voltage to close points: 6.4
Reverse Current to Open Points: 0-3 amps
Armature Air Gap: .020
Voltage Regulator Setting: 1118720: 7.3 volts; 1118725: 7.4 volts
Current Regulator Setting: 1118720: 45 amps; 1118725: 47 amps
Current and voltage armature air gap, Inch: .075

 

It's all stock, so it's a generator - 6V.

 

HERE YOU ARE, JUST FOLLOW THE 4 PAGES AND YOU WILL BE A CERTIFIED GOODWRENCH http://chevy.tocmp.com/bulletins/54csn1001.htm

 

like i said unless someone messed with something or you have bad connections, overall you shuold never have to adjust a regulator
by the time your brushes are so wore and armature need replacing, the voltage should just be about the same

big thing is to go over all the wires to everything, undo and check grounds check crimps, and sheck in the dash at the guages the charging system should be fine overall, try not to bend anything if you take off the cover, screws up the settings, and you can over charge nad then you start have battery problems,

i cant tell you how many fixes were just the good old clean check and retighten


,,that goes for all the switches and lights, take a afternoon and go over the whole car, to be honest with you that is what i would do anyhow, clean each bulb each plug, some people will say not to but simple system, a badconnection will eat up any charging you are getting before it goes to the battery

 

The reason I ask about the regulator is that I have a continuous problem with my starter solenoid. I changed the solenoid, then changed the starter, I'm still having the same problem.

From time to time, I will turn the key and just get a dull clunk from the solenoid. If I click the switch back and forth several times, it usually starts. When I swapped the starter over this last time, I posted a question about it and came to the conclusion that the solenoid was too far forward (towards the front of the car). I adjusted the solenoid and got constantly good starts, but now I'm back to where I started with about 50% success rate with my starter.

I just got back from a rather lengthy trip, and everytime I went to start the car, I ended up having my girlfriend turn the key while I got under the hood and squeezed the plunger into the solenoid to start the engine.

I just figured that maybe a low battery was to blame since it works some times and doesn't work about as many times. I threw a voltmeter on it as I was leaving work and the battery measures about 7-8 volts all the time (not running, at idle, and revved up in neautral - maybe around 9 when it's revved).

Thanks for the help so far, if you have any more tips, I'm all ears.

Later,
Jay

 

well there is a good reason to look at the wires and switch, tkaes a nice connection to get all the volts to the starter, bad dirty wore connections will be a part of that adjusting the solenoid is only a half fix,those start switches come apart, take a alook at it, the contacts inside are burnt, or have such minimal contact area from starting all these decades, would be worth the look,

or find a new old stock switch they are easy enough to get, and replace it ,it is a wear item,the volts sound fine, i am morethan sure a good check clean tighten of the whole electrical system, will take care of the problem,,, my 60 belair had the same issues years ago and i put in a new switch and did all of the above, and has worked just fine since,, granted it isa a 12 volt system, but the same applies to any electrical system

 

how old is the battery? you can check your charging system with a volt meter. have your battery load checked if it more than 4-5 years you might want to replace it. make shure you have clean cable ends at the bat, starter ,and starter relay.(solenoid). if your still having problems go to your local alt/bat/starter Rebiuld shop. have them check the amps coming outa the gen. the cranking Amp's. i work for a shop in Longview, WA. deal with things like this alot. MOST shop will check your sytem for FREE. hit me up if you have any more ?

 

Rotate the contacts & flip the disc in the solenoid ... then find a good used DELCO regulator ... file the points with a point file (carefully) & adjust to 7.8 volts. Check the back of the ign. switch for heat damage. A GOOD battery is a must, most common "chain store" batteries are of far lower capacity than the OE. Be sure the cables are heavy enough - welding lead works well. Tighten the ground straps.

 

Read of a problem where a bolt holding a ground strap was bottomed in the hole, intermitent problem, another washer cured it. Granted, this is just an example, but the point is; it is usually something as simple as a bad connection, and it can be on the plus or minus side!

Talking of the ign. switch, those things aren't that easy to pull unless you know the trick.