I'm putting together a SBC for a 28 closed cab pickup and I thought I would get some opinions. I know some of you think SBC's are kinda overdone but my father and I have alot of SBC and BBC parts layin around so it makes sense to me $$$$.(my old man is a engine machinist 35+ years) -late 60's 350 4 bolt block "dubble bump" 64cc heads,with 2.02/1.60 valves,no acc holes stroked to 383 ci,mechanical .560" blower cam forged pistons,Pete Jackson gear drive,studded,all the good parts,old set of M/T valve covers -rebuilt 6-71 blower,satin,5-7psi boost,2 Edelbrock 500cfm carbs(bead blasted)mounted inline with velocity stack air cleaners, 1/2" gilmer blower drive or 3 V belts???? cool or not cool????????
OK... Even though i am Anti~SBC ...... Answere me this question. Why a ****in gear drive ? And even more so WHY with a blower would you even consider a gear drive ?
I would go without the gear drive, they sound cool, but NEVER GO AWAY. With the blower belt, it will come on with RPM. All the gear drives I have heard wore thin on the skin within minutes. Otherwise, the combo sounds pretty cool. Oh yeah, I am sure you know, but I would make sure that you have the lower clearance for engine accessories to do the lack of head mounting holes, since they will have to be mounted low.... .02
I'll keep it in mind. I ran a "quiet" style gear drive a few years back in a BBC and didn't mind it at all. Zoomies have a sound that never goes away also I have a low mount alt bracket that should work I hope? If not I have another set of later dubble bump heads with holes
With the fuel nowadays, I would go with aluminum heads. If you really want a wicked sound, my Dad had a 39' Ford Coupe with a 6-71 blower on a flathead. He ran 4 bicycles chains to drive the blower. It was his daily driver. He said it made a god awful racket, but it sure ran.
why waste you time building an overrated 383 to use in a cool idea? also why would you want to run the dubble bump heads as you call them when running a blower? The closed chamber shrouds the valve way to much for it to be efficient....expecially when running on the street. If your dad has 35 years of engine machining experience, one would think he'd have a 283 or 327 to use...or even much cooler a 265. build something like that with your blower and have something different that will still haul ***. Drop the gear drive, they transfer way to many harmonics when driven daily and coupled to a blower motor to boot. The less vibration/harmonics you transfer between crank and cam the more longevity you will have. Go to the wider blower belt to pick the noise up, or just run bigger zoomies and you'd never hear the geardrive anyways!! Why .560 lift? Are you going with a roller cam? Another why if you are. Have a cam ground with around .510-.520 lift max and open up the duration a little more than standard, it will run much harder on the street that having too much cam...and then no need to waste the extra money on your roller stuff. Great idea/concept...but keep with the older/smaller blown small block and you'll have a much cooler/different set-up.
if its a cool combo to you doesnt matter what everyone thinks really. Unless you are the only person not driving your own truck. alot of the ifs and if nots can be addressed in may different ways. I think you got a good bottom end combo if you use H beams, if not upgrade the likelyhood of tossing one out increases greatly under boost pressure. you dont have to but if it was me i would who likes things coming apart. plus if your going to spend some cash on it do it right and only 1 time. double hump heads flow decent, if your going to run a blower port the ever living **** out of them they will run good with a blower if proper machineing is done to them. the cam setup if your going to run low boost 5-7 PSI get something in the .510-.520 range if you want to pull revs solid cam it wont float the valves, roller cam if you want to pull in tthe lower Rpm range the rollers have less friction at higher rpms but hydraulic rollers pump up and float the valves above 6500. dump the geardrive i had one it was awesome as hell........for about 6 months then it got annoying and mine was "quiet". whole different sound than a blower thats for sure. Plus with the cast heads if you run e-85 which would run good in a blower motor(now that i got everyone pissed more than likely for mentioning it). it makes more heat but the cast loves it. its just like running race gas but less expensive.
383? Why not? Ci = hp last time I checked. Ya we have a 283 and a couple 327's sitting in storage but why waste my time with them its not like I'm doing a # matching resto job.Also if I pull up beside you your going to tell the difference? I know the heads are not efficient I was just going to use them because they have no acc holes in them. Ya its a roller cam its a blower/nitrous grind recomended by a very well know grinder.... You guys sold me on the gear drive I'm not going to run it.
Small block chevies are traditional to the bone! Lotsa guys dont like em , but they are cheap, reliable horsepower. I'm generally a Ford guy, but SBC's are killer!
I have always been a SBC guy. I ran a blown alcohol SBC in my altered up until this year and ran a 7.47@182mph with it. It was a ALL cast iron deal also with 23 degree heads on it.I switched to a BBC this season to try it out. One thing I don't like is all this HEMI hype/********! Ya its got a hemi! How gay???? Don't get me wrong hemi's are cool but I think they are over rated latley.
I think the double hump heads with closed chambers are good for increasing compression. The only problem is you want to shed some compression for the blower. Im not sure you will be able to get the compression low enough to run on pump premium with those heads. At least with off the shelf pistons that is. If you plan on using custom pistons you should be ok. Otherwise, it sounds good.
Ya I have a set of JE forged dished pistons for it. It should work out around 8.5:1 comp without decking the block.
I believe the saying goes "There is no replacement for displacement." Run the stroker and have a good time. If you run the right pipes, you'll never hear if anyone *****es about it anyway.
Everyone has their opinion. I think they are rude and I might leave the forum....... hahahahaha Just jokin!
Exactly... and as for the acc. holes...well...no one ACTUALLY believes that its still 19( pick your year here...) do they, I mean we're not really pulling the wool over anyones eyes, are we? Everyone's calendar reads '07, right? I know, certain things bother me, too...but, lack of, or prescence of bolt holes is fairly insignificant, IMO. f-it...fill 'em in, if they just won't stop showing up in your nightmares...or, use the early heads...but, why choose less cubic inches, when more are available, in the same packaging?
Alan Grove makes some good brackets and they don't need any acc holes in the heads. You can mount the alt up high, off to the side or down low. They also have p/s brackets if you need them. Sounds like a good idea to me though. I'd like to see it when you get it done.
you stated in your first post about having parts meant saving $$$$ and the 383 unless you go with an aftermartket crank is going to rely on the stock cast 400 unit. Strong yes, but if you plan on getting high hp as the reason you'd want more cubes then that cast crank just might not like the added stress from blower and hp. The 283-327 cranks are forged steel units that will easily withstand the abuse. my opinion of the 383's are they make good torque and work great in tow rigs...but why use a 400 crank in a small bore when there are many 4.125 blocks out there...and do not even try and say it is because they run hot....********. To me the 283-327 just makes better sense with a nostalgia/old style ride as the 383 is just a new trend for everyone to follow. The 283-327 will make more than enough hp than you will ever be able to use in your rod....but hey it is just an opinion and you asked!!! Good luck with it no matter what ya decide to go with. by the way...if the 283's and 327's you have are not worthy...send them my way I'll use 'em!!!
Run what you got. If it's just a compromise (that'll-do) kind of engine, put it in and sell it. Buy the one you really want. If I were going to buy a used engine, it'd be nice to test it out first, right? I don't mean sell the whole truck, just the drivetrain. So............... to answer your question, yes, I'd do this.
I agree. Sound's like a pretty cool combo to me. Spend the $ on aftermarket heads and be happy. You really don't see all that many blown stroker motors (of course I don't go asking either). Besides what happens when you blow up a Hemi? you have to find another one and then fork over lots of $$. Just build the motor the way you described and be happy. Here is D.W.'s car - aftermarket Dart Block, Alum. Heads, Dyers Blower, Demon Carbs. Not all that traditional and some people probably hate it - but it's pretty hard to hate when he runs in the mid 11's with a primarily street driven HotRod. I know if drag racers had all these parts available in the late 50's and early 60's they would have been using them take a look @ this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204656&showall=1 oh and you can't forget Savage's Model A either.
Tough question. I won't speak to the particular details you set out for the engine build, but just to the general idea of using a SBC. There's not much that I hate worse than a SBC in any Ford. I won't give one a second look when I see such a monstrocity. On the other hand, I'm a huge proponant of "run what ya got". I'd be in a quandry if I were in your shoes. Luckily, I don't own any SBC's, so its not a problem for me.
SBCs are so fifty years ago. The guys who bash Chevies do so while looking at rapidly disappearing taillights.
DW's car is Bad***. And it sounds killer. I never heard anyone trash that car, they more or less just let their jaw drop. Plus it's fast as ****. That's a Hot Rod.
You're on the right track with the SBC. Cheap, traditional, reliable power. If you're OK with running it, so am I. I think your mistake is in running the Fuelie heads. They were great performance heads back in the day, but by today's standards they're dog****. Pretty much any aftermarket head will blow the Double humps away flow wise, which is what you need with the blower. A set of Iron Vortec heads will make way more power than the Fuelies. If you don't want to go with the new Vortec style intake, the World S/R Torquers are a good choice. For $650 complete, they seem worth it. You're also in the right neighborhood compression wise. You might be pushing the limits with the cast crank, but you're probably OK so long as you're not flooring it everywhere you go. As for the gear drive, I personally wouldn't run one. I'd much rather have a dual roller chain. I personally don't like the racket a gear drive makes, but that's all personal preference. To anyone who knows anything, there is NO mistaking a gear drive for a blower. I've had bad alternators sound more like a supercharger than a gear drive.
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