Model T guys...i got questions..

Ok ..this will be a first time for me to go back to those years of the T. I am very hopeful that I land this car..but only time will tell.

My question for you T guys is this. I am looking at a complete 26 T coupe. I know that my personality will not allow it to stay "stock"..sorry its just not gonna happen (if I get it) maybe for the first year i will try to get it back inrto running condition, but my plan will be for it to be a Hot Rod. so that said.
Where do you start? I know the front axle, rear axle and most if not all the running gear will have to go. Im looking for suggestions as to what parts i should be looking for, and what original parts on the car that will have to go.

I have done the 50's cars and mostly chevies and Chryslers, but i have always had a place in my heart for the litte T coupes like the nice stance guys get out of them and the cool look of that car hot rodded..
any suggestions will be filed away in my mind for when or if this car ends up in my possesion
Thanks

 

I'll give you my .02 which isn't worth .01, if it's a stocker, then to hotrod it you'll probably only end up using the body. The T frames are pretty flimsy, even by model A standards, as are the axles and suspension. Of course it depends on what engine your going to go with. If it's a good deal, then you may be able to sell off the stock parts, and then build or buy a frame and newer parts.

 

none of the running gear is suitable for hotrodding.. I've seen some people box old T frames and you can probably find use for the rear spring but the rest will have to go...Better off finding a body only, not worth cutting up a driver or something even close to restoreable.

Model A frame is a good fit, you can also use most of the suspension. Honesly a scratch buillt frame is also a good option and the suspension, drivetrain options are limitless.. A parts car really isn't going to help you..

Do some searches on T coupes, you'll find mine and plenty of other cars to give you some inspiration and ideas..

Good luck.

 

I agree with the above answers. To take a stocker and rod it, you'll basically just be using the body.

You may wanna look for a project, near complete rod or complete rod and take it from that point forward. Probably end up saving time and money in the long run.

Ya gotta start somewhere.

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great ..thanks for the ideas..i kinda figured the frame would have to go ..may end up building my own frame while the car is driven like it is..the car is not perfect it is kinda at the point were something needs to be done with it..im not a restore type, so i feel at this point the car could go eather way..but if i get it it will eventually have the body taken off and put on a frame and drive train that can handle being driven and driven alot!

 

wow only 3 guys on this site that build T's..guess i will be in a rare catagory of hot rodders than..

what frames and running gear should i be searching for ?

 

I've heard of guys boxing the stock T rails with another T frame lapped-in over the existing frame but I think you would still be better off building a frame from scratch, or using a Model A frame... I managed to score a perfectly good TCI ch***is from the HAMB for my 26 Tudor, already boxed all the way down the rails, set up for hairpins, SBC (I'm using s 4.3 V-6 instead) Vega steering, etc.

 

GMC BUBBA hot rodded a stock T engine and build his car.

 

I have a '27 Coupe and I agree that the T frame is not much use. I have been taking my time finding pieces and you can find some good deals if you look enough. I have scored a '40 front axle complete with steering and spring, and a '48 rear axle complete minus drums for the price of gas to go pick them up. Both were within half an hour of my house. I am going to build the frame out of box tubing this winter.

I am trying to build a period car on a cheap budget and so far have spent about $500. Below is a list of everything I have so far.

'27 coupe body, with 3 doors and 7 fenders (not using) with ***le -$175
'40 front axle ***embly
'48 rear axle ***embly
'39 transmission top shift (rebuilt) with bell housing and starter plate - $260
'54 F100 front and rear axles for the brakes
'54 F100 steering column and wheel with drag link
'50 8BA Flathead (saved from another project)
'36 ford V8 radiator - $15
Original "T" steering wheel - $5 (probably won't use but looks neat hanging in the shop)
'50 Ford dash (still looking for a speedometer)

Unless there is a price shown I got the parts for the price of gas to go after them. Nothing was more than 45 minutes away for the house.

If you can drive your car as it is then you might be surpised at what you can scavenge from someone elses jumk pile. All of my F100 stuff came from a guy who decided to "gold chain" his truck with after market mustang pieces and half a ton of billet parts. He was glad not to have to haul the junk off.

 

Absolutely no way to give a "correct" answer to this until you know what engine you'll use. Anything up to about 125 horsepower (such as a very mild flathead V8 or a Ford Pinto type four cylinder [or any SBC ]) will be fine with the stock frame...even without strengthening in some manner. Anywhere above the neighborhood of 200 horsepower will probably require a different frame. In between those numbers will require strengthening by some method.

Regardless, you can use the front and back springs and the front and back crossmembers.

 

My T had an original frame when I bought it, over the years people had tried to strengthen it but it ended up looking like a real hack job. I was going to build a frame from scratch but I ended up purchasing one so I knew for sure it would be straight and solid. I bought the pro street frame from www.tperformance.com. I'm not sure of anything else you would use from a T besides the body, but maybe you can get some money by selling the running gear. here is a pic of my coupe....

 

Remove the body.
Sell everything else.
Buy a ch***is from Speedway.

...& for God's sake, hide any cutting tools you have. Tall T coupes ROCK!!

JH

 

Amen.

 

this is the route I would like to go if I ever have 10 grand for a restored stocker. It would a whole lot less parts chasing for what I will need. If I went that route, the body is probably the only thing I would keep (and I would stick the grille shell on the wall). I talked to mercury charlie after he built his car, he had found an old stocker in a barn, all he kept was the body, he bought and built almost everything else from speedway motors. He said he could build me one like it for about 30 grand (2003) I don't know if that included labor or not. He put his together on 30 days just before the 2nd lonestar roundup.

If you do use a stocker you might want to replace the gl***. they used plate gl*** in 26 and it could turn even a little accident into a fatality.

mercury charlies car

 

Use an A frame, they look great under T's.

 

This is great ! guys and gals. im diggin all the input positive or negitive, it dont matter! I need to know what you all know or have been thru. As I see it, learn from those who have done it, and save your self the pit falls.. I am gonna make some mistakes , but im hopeing to make them small mistakes. any wisdom is welcome. At this point im not absolutly sure on the power plant. and who knows i may pull a strange one out of my hat on that one i just havent thought that thru yet. 200 ponies in something that small and light would probably be enough..and for those who said keep it TALL thats exactly what i want to do and probably channel it on the frame and rake it a bit. but all that is subject to change too..has any one on here contemplated or built a sleeper T? its just a thought.

 

T's are so light that even 100 hp in one gives a decent power to weight ratio. 200 hp is more than enough for most uses.

And yes, I've given a lot of thought to a sleeper T. I've got a '27 ceedan that may go that route. I'm thinking of using some rather powerful (comparatively) modern banger engine. Stock 21 inch wires on the front. 17 inch wires out back. Dropped stock axle up front. Banjo or model A rearend with reversed eye spring. Original interior. Model A steering box. Doubling the frame, if I find it to be necessary. Full fendered, of course. I'll probably keep it in the oxidized ("patina'ed") gray primer that has on it from many decades ago.

 

ooooh im like..yes nice idea!

 

A while back I saw a t at an estate auction. A " hot rod " from 1948, probably garaged since the early 50's. It was full fendered, model a frame and running gear 32 wheels and a flat head v8. It wasn't my cup of tea, but it probably was a relativly fast car for '48. It still looked like a stocker, and I like mine a little more radical-unchopped though.
never did find out what it went for.
here is a pic of one w/ a lincoln v 12

 

I started with just a body. I collected some other parts and then took them to Clark to have my ch***is built. He did a kick *** job. You would be better off finding the body you want and getting a ch***is built or build one yourself the way you want. That saves the h***le of selling unwanted parts.

 

I think, in the last two Rod and Kulture mags, there is a continuation article concerning a close to stock looking T. It is what Bill West (the builder), thinks a pre 27 T hot rod might look like. Looks high quality and cool if you ask me.

 

Why not build your own ch***i.
We made this from 2"*4" to fit the roadster body.
But with my tudor body it still works.

 

Hey!
Look what i found in Rod & Custom

 

I started out wanting to build something different than another fenderless T coupe, I think they are really neat but I just wanted to be different. I decided to go full fendered. Got the body and found a Model A ch***is, and 35 Ford wire wheels (see picture). Also wanted a Ford SHO V6 engine (Yamaha) but couldn't find one and my Dad gave me his 1980 Monza with Buick V6 engine in it (hard to turn down free parts) so that's what I'm using.
Found out the Frame wouldn't work too good so I traded it for a Boxed T frame (and some cash), didn't like that either, sold it and got a used Total Performance Frame. I should have just built my own because I had to add 3 inches to the length, take off brackets and add others (it's been a pain). Going full fendered has also been a pain. I've basically have to do a restoration and build a hot rod at the same time.
My advise like several of the others is to decide on what engine and then research what frame will work best. Don't be afraid of building your own, this site has several Tec articals showing how it's done.
If you are interested in selling your stock fenders please PM me.

 

a year ago I bought a frame for my T knowing it wouldn't work for my coupe . I've added to it and played with it to the point , you can't buy it , not only am I going to use it I'm going to race it ! I've had more fun with it , learn more about old iron HOT RODS , that I got rid of all the something for nothing people , replaced them with the ones that , LIVE Hot Rodding . my point = reading and talk is fine , doing is the teacher , the only metal you s**** is what you don't want anyone to see !

 

I have blueprint here on my comuter for a T frame. One is a stock '25 frame and the other is a '26/'27 style (custom I think). Once I figure out how to make the file smaller I will post them.

 

I bought a T coupe that I got running and sold the running gear to a guy that was going to restore one. Got back most of my money and used it to buy a 5.0 engine and trans from a Mustang, and tubing for the ch***is. Got most of the other parts from the junkyard and Speedway. Right in the middle of the chop right now, hope to get back on it when I get caught up on my "farm work"..

 

Have fun with both old and new!
Pull the body and sheet metal from the original frame and build your hotrod ch***is.
Get the original ch***is running and driving, build your self a nice little speedster body, you could even use the fenders, boards and aprons if you're not using them on the hotrod.

Fun in two different eras.

 

I saved the coupe body and bought a T bucket project that some else had given up on. I sold the gl*** bucket body to help finance my coupe. The body is channeled over the bucket's frame and the top is chopped 5 in.