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sandblasting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by los punk rods dave, Oct 5, 2007.

  1. what media is the best to get rust off of a frame ,off of the body, and what should i look for or questions to ask of the sandblaster????
     
  2. KernCountyKid
    Joined: Jul 11, 2006
    Posts: 376

    KernCountyKid
    Member
    from Arkansas

    Hopefully some blasting experts will jump in for you, but from what I understand the best thing to ask is if they will actually be using sand and if they say yes run for the hills. A lot of shops are moving to other media like crushed shells or baking soda. Sand is dangerous and prone to warping sheet metal. I'm sure some others can elaborate more and help find you a shop.
     
  3. Sixcarb
    Joined: Mar 5, 2004
    Posts: 1,503

    Sixcarb
    Member
    from North NJ

    I use black beauty for frames and the same for bodies, on the body if your using a potent blaster it's easy to warp a body, when blasting the body go in at an angle and don't stay on one spot for more then a second.....flat metal spots will warp quickly.
     
  4. lowpunk
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 350

    lowpunk
    Member
    from berwyn, il

    yeah, black beauty(slag) is great for frames and some body. i believe baking soda, glass and plastic(shredded toilet seats and such) is a little less abbrasive and creates less heat than the slag does so its a little safer on thin sheet metal and AL.
     
  5. 52RustRocket
    Joined: Nov 3, 2006
    Posts: 263

    52RustRocket
    Member

    Look up "Soda Blasting" It's been around for many years, but hasn't caught on like regular blasting. If I could afford it, I'd get my car soda blasted.
    Try this link:
    http://www.sodablasting.com/
     
  6. thorkin69
    Joined: Sep 23, 2006
    Posts: 25

    thorkin69
    Member

    Soda should not be used to remove rust. It's nice for paint removal but is lousy for rust.
     
  7. I've been using "Australian Garnet" for almost everything lately. I like it a lot. It looks like fine sparkly pink sand. I think they dredge it up off the coast of Australia somewhere. It does a great job of digging out rust pits, and it strips paint really fast. If you keep the gun moving and don't hold it too close, you can do thin metal like headlight buckets with no problems. It leaves a nice satin surface ready for primer. It's pretty harsh on the nozzles though. I switched to ceramic nozzles.
     
  8. BenW455
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 417

    BenW455
    Member

    I use the black beauty also. Cost about 7.50 for a 50 pound bag. Are you going to do this yourself or take it to a blaster? Frames are easy buy a pressure blaster and go to town on your frame. Then shoot it with epoxy primer.
     
  9. wyoming
    Joined: Feb 15, 2007
    Posts: 394

    wyoming
    Member
    from My house

    black beauty or star blast but star blast has some quarts in it either way go with a 40/60 or so for your body and 20/40 for your frame
     
  10. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,087

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I know this is my standard sandblasting reply........they are your lungs, use proper dust mask and eye protection. Best deal is to take it to a blaster that has done stuff others are happy with.
     
  11. louder50
    Joined: Oct 21, 2005
    Posts: 217

    louder50
    Member
    from Michigan

    Where do you get "black beauty" sand at????
     
  12. KernCountyKid
    Joined: Jul 11, 2006
    Posts: 376

    KernCountyKid
    Member
    from Arkansas

    Most Tractor Supply Company chains carry it. Local building suppliers also usually have it. I've gotten mine at National Home Centers and the local hardware store.
     
  13. Sixcarb
    Joined: Mar 5, 2004
    Posts: 1,503

    Sixcarb
    Member
    from North NJ

    True Value, and som tractor supply's ask your local hardware stores as well, if they don't have it most can order and they pay the shipping. You can also look online searching yahoo and see if somebody local may carry it.
     
  14. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,388

    MUNCIE
    Member
    from Houston

    If you are going on the heavier gauge metal like the frame you can use something not to coarse .Body parts definetly want to lower your psi and use the finest sand ( I always called it sugar sand) available.Good luck:cool:

    Always wear a respirator beleive me it's hot but it's worth it.
     
  15. arkracing
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 891

    arkracing
    Member

    I just tried some "JetMag" Olivine. It comes in different grades, it is basically a Synthetic media. Has less than 1% "Free Silica" which is the bad stuff that you don't want to breathe. A little bit more $ than regular sand, but worth it for the low silica stand point.

    I did a door with it - I liked it & it worked well. I blasted @ around 70-75psi which is lower than recommended, but I didn't want to mess up the sheetmetal any more than it already was.

    Check out page 3 of the following link. It gives a breakdown of different media, the Olivine has the lowest "Crystalline-Silica" (which is supposedly the free silica that is dangerous) @ <.3%
    http://oem.msu.edu/Blasting/User/15ap2.pdf


    oh and for those of you who are recommending a "dust mask" or respirator - check to see if it will filter out "free silica" - most of them don't, I have yet to see one that says it will.
     
  16. sodbuster
    Joined: Oct 15, 2001
    Posts: 5,057

    sodbuster
    Member
    from Kansas

    "Best Strip joint in town"..........Eagle Auto Stripping, 7300 Kaw Drive (K32), KC,KS......913.334.6331

    They told me $50 for fenders and doors and a couple of hundred for body's a couple of years ago.

    Chris Nelson
    Kansas
     

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