I need to remove the hinges so that I can reposition them within the door. Of course the screws are frozen. I don't wish to distroy anything here ! Should I try to drill the old screws out, or is there a better way to do this ? These are on a '34 Ford pickup.
Maybe someone will post a link to the tech article on how to make a screw removing tool with a air chisel. You can try this, take a old socket and weld a GOOD flat blade screwdriver bit to it, so that you can put it on a air ratchet. Then take a die grinder and clean the opening up in the screw, so that the bit will fit into it good. Then go at it, with a real slow tat-tat-tat When it moves shot penetrating oil on it then run it back in by hand, then the screw should come out by hand.
First spray everything you can with penetrating oil, let it sit for a day and try an impact driver with a snug fitting bit. If that doesnt work then try the more involved stuff.
I have been soaking the door screws on my 38 for about a week now and have used a hand impact that I use on old rice burner motorcycles. The bit fits tight and when you tap it with the hammer it seats the bit very well. Most are coming out fine. Take it slow as if they are really tight and heat up due to friction it may cause them to seaze. The door screws have been fairly easy, those 100's of stove bolts are being the big pain. With lots of heat and soaking they are coming out one by one. I thought pulling this sheet metal was going to take a night or two. It's taking longer, doesn't everything? Good luck, Rev
I got all the hinge screws out of my T using the following method: Sprayed repeatedly with pbblaster for a day or so. Wiped clean of excess pb and cleaned the surface (to help avoid fire) I then heated each screw with a small acetaline torch untill it turned a bit red and then backed it off with a screw driver.. Got all but 1 out without breaking, both door and jamb side on 6 hinges (42 screws in all!). The one that broke i positioned a small nut over and filled it in with my mig, i then backed it out using a socket. Go slow and be patient!
Follow the link atch gave, its amazing how well it works. I used no heat, no penetrating oil on my model a door hinges. They were FROZEN, as most are. I made the attachment like Sam showed, and had the whole car apart in no time. Not one broken or stripped screw. I could have never gotten it done without it. Dan
Thanks to all you guys for the great tips on removing hinges. It seems I'm a**** those like myself, who like to p*** on the knowledge. I only hope I can be of help to others when the call comes. I just turned 70 but still feel 30. It's a great reward within itself, to share. _______________________ Life just gets better, with a little help from your friends.
Thanks for the link! I'll build mine tomorrow. My cabs ready to pop of the ch***is and the doors are next to come off.
Yes! Use this link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6015 I soaked the screws and then heated them and they still would not break free with my hand impact. I followed the instructions in the above link with the following mods... I used a pointed bit fom my air hammer and welded a 3/8 extension to it. To the extension I welded an old 12mm wrench from the 100 years drawer. I used the bit and bit holder from my hand impact. I hit the screws with a few raps and then put some pressure on the wrench. With the light pressure on the wrench I hit it again with the air hammer and they poped right loose. I backed them out a little and them hit them with the lube again. I had all 16 screwws out in just a few minutes and the only one that had any damage was the one I tryed the hand impact on. Awesome tip! And if you use the extension method like I did and pull the trigger on the impact with out the bit against a screw...you will be surprized (as I was) on how far the bit holder and bit can fly!!!!!!!
I was rummageing around Home Depot last night and found a set of three 3/8 extensions with a positive retention feature on the end. I'll machine the end down to fit in my air hammer and attach a handle. Will look and work a little more pro. My 5 minute fab job will look good hanging on my tool wall and still get used. http://www.mcmaster.com/ has various bits for most types of screws, along with every kind of screw, nut, bushing, ***orted hardware, tools and equipment we could need. I buy tons of stuff for work and usually have what I ordered the next day. They define customer service. I'm ordering clutch tips tonight to start on those screws next.
On the same subject, on my A doors there is like 1 screw and a couple of rivits ? per hinge, whats the best deal here for removal and refitting ?
I've always had great success removing door hinge screws by heating (just the screw head) cherry red, use an old, good fitting screw driver and tap on the handle (sharply with hammer) while screw is still red. Screws usually remove with little problem.
I have been doing this job for several years and Id like to share my"secret" method of removing the rusty stuck Door Hinge screws. Buy yourself one of those little HAND IMPACTS that harbor freight sells for $4.95..... Then take the "CHUCK"part and its bits [and that chuck will fit] on any pistol grip 3/8" air impact gun.... Torch Heat the HINGE cherry red and try not to heat the screw as much as the hinge...[ that would soften the screw head and it would strip]. Then with the hinge heated up red -use the imact with its new parts from the hand unit-PRESSED FIRMLY against screws.... and they will come right out.
I used a 3/8 nut mig welded to the head of the screws on my 31 coupe. Took all 18 screws out in no time. Make sure to put all your welding heat on the head of the screw and allow it to cool alittle bit before removing it. Back and forth and it will come out. Panter Piss helps too.
See message immediately above this...... unless you enjoy frustration and uncontrolled bleeding, this is the preferred method. You're not going to save those bolts anyway..... so weld on a good sized nut and twist away with a rachet and lo and behold they all come out!!
One thing I do on rusted bolts and screws after a thorough soaking of PB (and if you've seen my coupe you know what I mean) is I try to TIGHTEN the offending fastener first, not too hard to strip it, but enough to make it think about going that way, then I try to loosen it and it usually comes out. If it doesn't- that's what the torch is for. Heat it cherry red, squirt it with some P'Blaster and back it on out.
The Jalopy Journal
