Register now to get rid of these ads!

Stepping a "factory" A frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mercjoe, Oct 9, 2007.

  1. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Hey guys,

    Surely a dumb question but how much could a "factory" A frame rear
    be stepped. The stepping detailed on the Tardell book is just about
    the rails height. How much more work would involve stepping
    it further, how far did you go ?

    Any pics would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Diego
     
  2. Bear Metal Kustoms
    Joined: Jul 31, 2004
    Posts: 1,857

    Bear Metal Kustoms
    Alliance Vendor

    You are talking Z'ing??? I usually box the rails then decide how much Z is neded... I the build a new complete rear structure from box tubing. I will reuse the original crossmember if requested by client. otherwise I just build a new sping perch.... I have done up to 16" of Z depending on application.. Jason.
     
  3. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Thanks Bear,

    So thats the only way ? building a complete new rear structure ?

     
  4. 30roadster
    Joined: Aug 19, 2003
    Posts: 1,793

    30roadster
    Member

  5. Bear Metal Kustoms
    Joined: Jul 31, 2004
    Posts: 1,857

    Bear Metal Kustoms
    Alliance Vendor

    No, you can use the original frame also...Remember if you only use the original frame you will shorten your overall wheel base... Jason.
     
  6. I have a question to add to this. If it shortens the overall wheel base, can you use a 40 rear end with the spring in front by swapping the axle bell ends and regaining the lost wheelbase? I need to z a frame also and have a 40 rear to use in the process....
     
  7. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Yeah, you are right, in fact Im looking to get the frame lengthened. So some new metal will have to be added.

    As JimSibley taught me doing this let you use an uncut firewall. Also I like the offset between the wheel and wheel opening like in this
    Jims built coupe..., I think the only way to achieve that is lenghtning
    the frame.., isnt it ?

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=362301&d=1191797890


    Thanks
    D.




     
  8. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Jim, I'll be eternally thankfull if you rcould give me dimensions and whatever further info on the coupe chasis, rearend and suspension work.

    Thanks
    Diego



     
  9. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,181

    Rand Man
    Member

    I missed that thread.
     
  10. xadamx
    Joined: Apr 18, 2003
    Posts: 1,170

    xadamx
    Member

    You can step it the actual width of the frame without adding a section...just pie-cut the frame starting at the top of the frame and cutting down at an angle towards the front of the car and bottom of the frame. Flop the back section of the frame on top of the front section, the width of the cut. Weld, box, truss, reinforce. That will get the car down about 4" or so, which is usually the drop on a front axle anyway, so it's not a bad number. I, personally, would do something similar to Nate's and lengthen the chassis a bit, and put the spring behind. Can get it a little lower and a tad better ride quality. Lots of means to an end here...
     
  11. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    I wondered about this too, what if I want to go just a little lower than they do in the Tardel/Bishop book. I wondered about chopping it 4" forward of the rear crossmember like they do in the book. Then take a strip of 3/16 plate steel as wide as the frame and maybe 6" long. Butt weld that to the end of the frame vertically, then butt weld your rear crossmember piece to the back of the vertical plate. Of course you would gusset both sides. This way you wouldn't be limited to a 3" step. Would that work or is it a dumb idea?
     
  12. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,747

    Paul
    Editor

    here's how we did Eric's Dodge frame, the same could be done with any "C" channel style frame
    CGKid's frame
     
  13. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Hey Adam,

    Thats a pretty straight, tempting and easy procedure.But I
    would prefer to extend the frame also..., still not quite sure about the spring behind axle configuration..., is it safe... ? and can/should the A rear cross member be used in that combo ?

    Thanks
    D.


     
  14. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Ford mounted the springs behind the rear axle from 1932-48 in passenger cars, and in front of the front axle from 1935-48 in passenger cars. I think it might be safe there.
     
  15. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Cool..., only thing is this procedure takes some lenght from the frame.Doesnt it ?

     
  16. mercjoe
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,378

    mercjoe
    Member

    Any special angle for this ? Does the 22.5 degree cut have
    any sense here ? I dont think so, but asking doesnt hurt..

    Thanks
    Adam


     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.