Stepping a "factory" A frame

Hey guys,

Surely a dumb question but how much could a "factory" A frame rear
be stepped. The stepping detailed on the Tardell book is just about
the rails height. How much more work would involve stepping
it further, how far did you go ?

Any pics would be appreciated.

Thanks
Diego

 

You are talking Z'ing??? I usually box the rails then decide how much Z is neded... I the build a new complete rear structure from box tubing. I will reuse the original crossmember if requested by client. otherwise I just build a new sping perch.... I have done up to 16" of Z depending on application.. Jason.

 

Thanks Bear,

So thats the only way ? building a complete new rear structure ?

 

read this old thread

and this one is really helpful too

 

No, you can use the original frame also...Remember if you only use the original frame you will shorten your overall wheel base... Jason.

 

I have a question to add to this. If it shortens the overall wheel base, can you use a 40 rear end with the spring in front by swapping the axle bell ends and regaining the lost wheelbase? I need to z a frame also and have a 40 rear to use in the process....

 

Yeah, you are right, in fact Im looking to get the frame lengthened. So some new metal will have to be added.

As JimSibley taught me doing this let you use an uncut firewall. Also I like the offset between the wheel and wheel opening like in this
Jims built coupe..., I think the only way to achieve that is lenghtning
the frame.., isnt it ?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=362301&d=1191797890


Thanks
D.

 

Jim, I'll be eternally thankfull if you rcould give me dimensions and whatever further info on the coupe chasis, rearend and suspension work.

Thanks
Diego

 

here is how i did mine with all old steel... it still needs to be boxed.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196203

 

I missed that thread.

 

You can step it the actual width of the frame without adding a section...just pie-cut the frame starting at the top of the frame and cutting down at an angle towards the front of the car and bottom of the frame. Flop the back section of the frame on top of the front section, the width of the cut. Weld, box, truss, reinforce. That will get the car down about 4" or so, which is usually the drop on a front axle anyway, so it's not a bad number. I, personally, would do something similar to Nate's and lengthen the chassis a bit, and put the spring behind. Can get it a little lower and a tad better ride quality. Lots of means to an end here...

 

I wondered about this too, what if I want to go just a little lower than they do in the Tardel/Bishop book. I wondered about chopping it 4" forward of the rear crossmember like they do in the book. Then take a strip of 3/16 plate steel as wide as the frame and maybe 6" long. Butt weld that to the end of the frame vertically, then butt weld your rear crossmember piece to the back of the vertical plate. Of course you would gusset both sides. This way you wouldn't be limited to a 3" step. Would that work or is it a dumb idea?

 

here's how we did Eric's Dodge frame, the same could be done with any "C" channel style frame
CGKid's frame

 

Hey Adam,

Thats a pretty straight, tempting and easy procedure.But I
would prefer to extend the frame also..., still not quite sure about the spring behind axle configuration..., is it safe... ? and can/should the A rear cross member be used in that combo ?

Thanks
D.

 

Ford mounted the springs behind the rear axle from 1932-48 in passenger cars, and in front of the front axle from 1935-48 in passenger cars. I think it might be safe there.

 

Cool..., only thing is this procedure takes some lenght from the frame.Doesnt it ?

 

Any special angle for this ? Does the 22.5 degree cut have
any sense here ? I dont think so, but asking doesnt hurt..

Thanks
Adam