I have my ch***is blown apart for painting right now. I've been thinking about what kind of hardware to put everything back together with. The local OSH has a great selection of bolts etc, but I think that nyloc nuts look out of place on early suspension components. I like the look of csatellated nuts. Going through the McMaster Carr catalogue, they have different grades. What grade nust and bolts should be used on suspension components? Any advice on drilling the bolts for cotter pins? Thanks
Grade 5 is adequate for most anything on a car except suspension components where yopu would use Grade 8.
Grade 5 is fine for pretty much anything automotive, except head bolts, mains and rods.........although I use grade 8 everywhere. Alot of aftermarket suspension parts also come with Grade 5 hardware....P&J, Morrison, etc.... Look at Aerial lift equipment some time.....it takes you up 100+ feet in the air.....alot of liability on the part of the manufacturer. Almost every bolt on 'em is Grade 5.
I'll preface with a disclaimer: I'm no engineer. But, there are places in your suspension when you do not want the hardness (brittleness) of grade 8. Sometimes you need a bit of flex. Kind of like forged vs. cast. Is the part in shear? Double shear? Moving on the bolt? Heat cycles?
Compairing a sissor lift to a car????? Don't start thinking because a certian grade is good for one thing that it must be good for something else. On my way to receiving my A&P licence.... I had to take a semester long cl*** just on hardware. They make different grades for many reasons. Far to many reasons to write them all out in a post. Just to say.."heck, grade 5 should be good enough" doesn't always cut it. Some hardware on your hot rod may be the difference between life and death if they were to fail. I think I would be sure what I am using rather than thinking "heck, grade 5 should be good enough" Just my 2 cents
Not COMPARING, just an example,.....aerial lifts have more "at stake", so to say, than autos...esp. 135 BOOM lifts..... A bolt or nut doesn't KNOW what it's attached to does it??? It just knows it holding something together....how it's holding it together is what matters.....is the bolt the stressed item? Or the item bolted together? MANY of the various grades don't apply to autos.. On another note, what are tie-rod ends rated at? The tapered stud. Seem pretty hard, like grade 8. Just curious, as many of use use 'em for wishbone ends, have been for years with out probelms....
A good book to read on this subject is Carroll Smith's: Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook. I learned a lot of good stuff in that book. It's really worth reading. [SIZE=-1][/SIZE] [SIZE=-1][/SIZE]
great info guys, thanks. Forgive my ignorance on the subject, but when using a castellated nut, do you tighten the nut to the desired torque and the use the castellations as an index for the drill bit?
Personally I prefer the look of "prevailing torque" nuts over the more modern looking Nylock nut. I think some look quite vintage. FWIW
That's not the case. The Grade 5 bolt will reach its ultimate tensile and shear strengths before the Grade 8 bolt fails due to its brittleness. Although Grade 5 may be adequate in most applications, I'd use Grade 8 whenever possible.
AN bolts on the suspension Grade 5 in shear application Grade 8 in tension aplication is a good rule of thumb. I use to build road race cars and the Caroll Smith Book is a must read if you are building a car.
You might try looking at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty for drilled shank bolts, etc. A couple things I like about aircraft bolts, they generally come in 1/16 inch length increments, so you don't end up with a bunch of threads hanging out, and the shank is generally only threaded for a short distance so that the load bearing part of the bolt isn't on the threads. If you don't have an Aircraft Spruce catalog, you should get one (they're free)www.aircraftspruce.com (I think)
I always just use grade 8 where ever...im not sure why some people here are saying a grade 5 would be better in a shear application? here is a chart showing both shear and tension forces different bolt grades and sizes will support. http://www.powroll.com/images/graphics_headers/screwe2.gif as for nut selection the nylon lock nuts are grade 5. they sell grade 8 lock nuts that are all metal and "squish" the last threads a bit so it digs into the v-groove
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