Hello all, I am finally getting some time to start working on this ol' Stude pickup. Its a '49. Anyway, my questions is: How "ok" is it to heat up a truck frame? I notice "no heat/no welding" stickers on a lot of current truck frames...and I just wanted to make sure I wasnt screwing anything up. I have what I believe is a straight frame in general...but the rear end of the frame rails are all tweaked. I am also open to any other tips on getting these nice and straight. Below is a picture of what I have. I hammered the other side straight, as it was only slightly bent on one lip. But this side is bad, and I dont want to hammer it too much because I'm worried I'll stretch or tweak the metal further to a point that its -not- fixable. Thanks everyone... Scott
New frames are high tensile steel, any welding would void warranty, you can drill holes in the sides, but not the flanges. Anything behind the rear most spring hanger is ok. Your old frame can be welded on, and from the picture it looks like you are wanting to straighten behind the spring hanger, No problems there!!
That no welding sticker is something you se on Newer BIG truck frames. Semis and such. On your 49 cut and weld all you want. Hammer that straight, or cut it off and replace it. rob
Yes indeeed. I didnt even think about the metal composition of new vehicles. That makes sense now that I actually think about it. Thanks for the input! I'll gets to heatin' tonight! -scott
Thanks! Actually, I have a couple of ideas in mind for it. This current one is pretty rough right now (the front end sheet metal anyway)...so at the very least I'm going to use it to learn on. I'd like to "shrink" the cab a little, whether its sectioning out 3 or so inches...or chopping the top 3-4". I'd like to put an early bed on it, something with open wheels. The front end will be my biggest deciding factor. Part of me wants to get some straight sheet metal and have a full front end on it...but the better part of me wants to lose the fenders and hood...and do an open-style front end. I'll p***-down the flathead 6 thats in it for a flatty ford V8 (anything besides a sb350) <== not that there is ANYthing wrong with the venerable sb350...it just didnt fit into my personal vision for the car. /backpeddling Long story short...I'd like to try my hand at all the cool body modifications that I've read about and studied for so long. Piecutting a hood, sectioning, chopping, etc.
While the steel of the frame on the Stude is old school and does not have the " no heat " rules of some of the current high strength steels used in todays frames. Heating a frame for repair needs to be used only to correct certain conditions and in certain cir***stances. Your rear rail end appears to be something that can be repaired cold but better pics are needed of the side of the rails and the rear section as a whole, to be certain. Heat should only be applied to a frame under tension during a pull. Heating without tension can lock the damage into the frame and result in additional problems . Even though the frame is cold rolled you also need to be careful not to overheat the steel or heat for an extended time which can result in crystalization of the steel. It takes a lot of abuse to create this condition but I've seen it before.
Much thanks...for all the replies guys. I might just actually lop it off back there. Its only about 10" of area where its bent-up like that...and I intend on putting a short early bed on there, if I put a bed at all. So we'll see. I have a lot of other cleaning, scotchbriting, etc....so I can wait on the heat and beat.
Hey Scott, In lookin' at the rear rails of your Stude, they look to be able to be straightened cold. Heat is best left to only be used when a frame is in a mash, sag, sidesway, or torn condition. Your's has none of these traits. It will take a couple of big hammers to move this steel (ten- pounders) into shape. Should heat be necessary after all efforts with the hammers fails to yield desired results, heat to a dull blue colour, followed by more hammer work. Hell, most of that damage will probably move back into alignment with a 36" pipe wrench! I've seen where Ron Covell has a DVD on chopping and sectioning a post- war Studebaker PU. check it out! S****ey Devils C.C.
Hey Pimpin! I did see that DVD and I checked it out...its on the way now. I couldnt resist once I saw what he was working on, and I'd get cheap tricks on how to do my own cab. It was a no-lose situation. However...after a closer look last night, I see that the entire rear frame, from where the axle crossmember is, on back. It wasnt really visible just looking at it, but I put a 48" level up to the truck last night just for "grins"...and was actually greeted with a big pain in the ***. So... I guess I need to take 'er to a frame shop or something and see if they can pull it straight. There are plenty of "those shops" around here so it shouldnt cost too much I guess. Unless anyone has any ideas. I have a lot of cool tools, but i dont have a porta-power or anything like that...and aside from straightening some metal and panel beating...I dont know squat about frames and the specifics of getting everything "square" and in-spec. Sigh... Anyone around DFW-TX that either has tools, a shop, a referral, or an ounce of hope to help a fella out? Not looking to freeload, so lets hear it!
The Jalopy Journal
