Paint Stripping A Car Down???

Looking for the best way to (Paint Strip) a car down to bare metal without warping and the cheap way.

 

dip or soda blast

 

Plastic media blast

 

Soda blast it

 

I prefer soda or gl*** media blasting, but it gets a little pricey. If you're looking for the cheapest, I seriously think it would be chemical stripper. But, it's pain in the ***, takes more time, and makes a mess. I've done it, and it usually works OK.

 

I've used chemical stripper before and my understanding is you need to wait for really really hot weather in order for it to soak and penetrate thru. Unless I'm using the wrong brand (AIRCRAFT PAINT REMOVR)

 

I've had really good luck with Aircraft Stripper. Yes, it makes a mess, but with a little prep (masking paper under the car) it can be controlled.

 

Aircraft stripper is the way I always do it. If it is applied liberally, it works really well and as mentioned above, cleanup can be controlled fairly easily. It usually takes me about 3-4 gallons to completely strip a full size car depending on how much paint is on it. Just don't get it on you. It will burn.

 

My '34 is in the shop now and getting it's paint stripped the "old fashioned" way.....single-edge razor blades and plenty of "elbow grease". I remember seeing cars stripped this way when I was young (early '50's).

Jim Winter
The Hot Rod Grille

www.wvpinball.com

 

yeah some aircraft stipper, let it soak in and ive got a steel wheel cup put on my angle grinder and it takes it down pretty good then give it a good sanding. works great. faster then what i can sandblast with my lilttle home compressor, but yeah it burns like a ***** when it gets on you....not if.

 

Oh yeah, you WILL get it on you. Doesn't hurt for long, though.

 

anybody know about the temp deal with the aircraft stripper? I've got some at home and I want to do my hood but it' says only use between 70-90 F - we aren't looking at lots of 70+ days anytime soon. is it just less effective when it's cold?

 

What Application is more effective. Spray On or Applied by hand? If applied by hand what way works best, Brush On or Rag On? I just want to be sure before i attack my car with this stuff...Thanks

 

Aircraft paint remover is the way to go, but someone said wait for hot weather... dont. if you put paint remover on the hot metal it doesnt work as well. it still works, just not quite as well.

 

make sure you get aircraft stripper in the blue and silver can. brush it on heavy. i get mine at home depot.

 

Another note: if you want to keep the paint intact on the door jambs, run a line of good quality masking tape down your door seams. That helps keep it out of the jambs.

Get one of those steel razor blade holders, that makes for a great s****er that's sharp, and easy to swap blades. The paint will s****e right off, usually.

I hadn't thought of a wire wheel on a grinder. Too much speed might make a mess though?

Also, I used to use a brand called "Zip Strip". It was good stuff, not too temp dependant. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

PS: get a good paint respirator, that ****'s nasty to breathe.

 

I use 3M clean and strip discs

No chems or blasting!

It takes 3-4 8-9 inch discs to clean a car up

You can do it yourself and sweep up the mess

One thing... 3M charges about the same for a 3'' disc as a 12'' so buy the big ones and cut out the size you need

I doesn't hurt the body unless you lean on it hard and chews body filler very well

I use it to clean old alunimum race car bodies .... no problems

Good luck

Here's what they look like

 

Are they flat front disc? Cut to size, I'm working on my Lincoln and I'm going to try to strip it down. Do you recommend applying paint stripper first and finishing it off with clean and strip discs.

 

I have been using aircraft remover / paint stripper at the shop and on personal projects for awhile and Paint it on in one direction only, if you cross hatch you seal it in and it's reactive properties.

Wait 5-10 minutes and have fun s****ing .
Wear rubber gloves and a respirator.
Take gloves off before going pee.

Enjoy,
Jerome

 

Hey,

Some points when using stripper- DO NOT USE A WIRE WHEEL ,air
or electrical powered. Stripper traveling at 150 m.p.h. off the end
of a wheel will take out your eye before you can save it. I know
even if I tell ya too, ya won't ware goggles, but there's nothin'
cool about an eye patch! Even before you start to strip your project,
set out a fresh five gallon bucket of water. This is your eye wash
station! Yeah, I know, ya arn't planning on getting any in your eyes
or on your skin, neither were the thousands of guys who **** them-
selves up using stripper every year. Avoid getting any stripper on
rubber or plastic parts, if you do wash it off asap! Pizza boxes work
great for catching stripper and dead paint as it fall off the sides of the
job. Place cardboard or heavy paper on the shop floor around the
vehicle, and upon removal allow it to dry and air out before you put
it into the trash. Always use rubber gloves when using stripper.


S****ey Devils C.C.

 

I've always had good luck running over the paint quick with a da with a piece of 40 grit first to cut it up then apply the stripper the scratches help get the stripper deep and it works a little faster
also put on 2 or3 pairs of rubber gloves that way you can pull off the nasty ones and keep working good luck

 

Do a real good job, neutralizing it with water. I'd used to take scotchbrite over the stripped area while running water over it; cleans up the scraggly leftover stuff. If you don't neutralize real well that **** will bleed through your primer.
After it's rinsed, you can take you favorite wirewheel, strip disks or whatever over it. I use 80 git on an orbital DA. or 40 grit on the thick **** that didn't strip real well.

 

those 3M stripping discs bluto posted work fantastic...

 

I don't own 3M stock....... these work and it's dry and sweepable!

They gang em together to strip floors

Sometimes you can find the big ones on ebay 18"-24"

Cut out the size you need poke-a-hole in the middle and put em on your grinder

They do like a back-up rubber pad and Don't like sharp edges

Most of my cars are old 0-2 thin alloy Don't hurt em! I did a Mag body with this ****

No more F'n chemical mess

Hey it's 3 am here jetlagg's a *****!

 

When I worked at a chain autobody shop where we'd paint up to 20 cars a day(yhea and they looked like it also). We used a Chemical Stripper call "Strip It Dry" it worked great, you scuff the surface with 80 grit DA pour on the stripper let sit for 30 minutes and then with a plastic s****per s****e it off no gooey mess to deal with just dry flakey paint, then remove the rest with finer grit sand paper. I just did a search and did not find it anywhere, this was about 10 years or more ago..

 

Couple more comments on chemical strippers. Works good on old enamals but a messy pain on lacquer. Lacquer doesn't blister up, just turns gooey. Will also come back and haunt you if it gets into a seam or edge, it will wait till your new paint to show you what you missed while cleaning it up! I prefer the stripping disc also, quicker and much less of a mess.

 

Ditto what Bluto said. Screw the Chem strip i dont use it anymore. Ive been using the 3m stripper discs. Much cleaner and cheaper.

 

These are the greatest innovation in years.I agree with Bluto this is the way.Wear a respirator for the paint dust though.