The bolts that hold the rear mount on a 1985 S-10 T-5 must be metric. Anybody know the size and pitch? I'm trying to save multiple 10 mile trips to the parts store. Also...The bearing retainer interferes with the clutch disc spline...too long by about 1/8" My thinking is an 1/8" clearance from the end of the retainer to the splined disc hub, when everything is bolted up, should do it. I'm thinking the disc doesn't move that much when the clutch is depressed. Sound reasonable?
It is typical to have to cut about 1/2" off the length of the bearing retainer. As for the mount bolts, I am not sure. Measure it
Why does the question,"is the clutch disc backwards" pop into my mind? It has happened before, I know.
because you know I'm a dummy but I did check that several times. Actually I'd have more clearance if it were in backwards.
Thank you. You saved me from lugging the trans to the parts store for trial fits. I know I saved the old ones but just where is another issue.
If the disc hits the bearing retainer, whats the shaft doing to the pilot bushing? I have done two of these and had to shorten the shaft on both, but never had the disc problem. I guess every one is different. As far as the bolts go, they are not lost, they are still in a safe place. Just like the ones in my garage.
Actually i had to leave the pilot bushing a little proud of the crank. This is on a Studebaker engine. The shaft extends completely through the pilot bushing so there should not be any trouble there. One trip to Lowes and for 3.98 the mount is in place. Thanks again. After more thought.... I'm thinking about cutting the T-5 retainer to be the same length as the Stude retainer as measured from the face of the trans. That makes sense...doesn't it? I don't want any oh ****s! I'm such a wuss.
Tommy - I realize you're done with your conversion, but had you seen this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220162601058&rd=1 Was on SDC about a month back - got one coming my way.
Good deal - especially since you've got that semi-rare bellhousing doncha? Figured out your speedo yet?
One more gotcha on those S-10 T5s. The input shaft splines get shallower towards the back (the cuts, not the splines themselves, if that makes sense). It LOOKS like you have x inches of spline to work with, but if you slide the clutch disc back by hand, you'll see it stops a little early. The end result is that the clutch won't disengage if it hits that shallow section. Since I could see the extra spline sticking out past the clutch disc, I checked every other clearance issue first. In the end, I just needed a washer between the trans and bellhousing on each mounting bolt.
Not sure I follow you here. I understand about the splines perfectly. But don't see why a clutch won't disgengage - it's not moving back & forth on the splines to engage/disengage - the pressure plate is clamping & releasing... I'd caution against doing this. You have two risks here - 1) you are putting point stresses on the mounting ears they weren't designed for. 2) depending on thickness of washer, you may be pulling the trans out of the bellhousing far enough that the bearing retainer no longer properly registers & ensures concentricity. If it were me & I had this problem, I'd have machined a flat plate to take up the space...
Now that you ask.... My trans came with a plastic unit screwed onto the standard speedo connection. It appears to be some type of reduction gear that has the same male connection for the cable as the one on the trans for the cable. I don't know its purpose. It's not electrical. I plan to start without it. (There is something about plastic parts on old hot rods...) I'm using a 32-34 speedo and the reproduction 32 cable fits fine on both ends. I don't know what rear ratio I have so I hope I'll be able to find a speedo gear that will get me close. I may want to swap ratios once I get it back on the road. I want to be able to brag about all those MPGs.
If the splines aren't long enough, the disc will be forced tight to the flywheel, even with the pressure from the plate off of it, which will cause the input shaft to be spining all of the time whether you want it to or not. Bad idea to leave it like that. Definitely a bad idea to space out the ****** with washers. Make a plate out of 12 guage sheet.
Exactly. Much better explanation than I gave. ****. I figured the washers were sub-optimal, but you know how it goes with field expedient repairs. At the time I had a 2 hour round trip drive to the garage. Hadn't thought about cutting a spacer out of sheet. Duh.
If it's THAT tight against the flywheel, then the trans won't bolt to the bellhousing properly anyway. You'd have a gap between the trans & bellhousing that you'd be closing up using the bolts - obviously something is wrong. Correct answer is to put the proper input shaft on. Otherwise, re-think the adapter. All that said, I've deepened splines with a die grinder when I was in a hurry! Definitely need to double-check the pilot shaft/bushing/bearing relationship though...
Before... and after. I'm just about ready to swing it back in. I've got to make a trans cross member and get a new driveshaft made and I'll be puttin' again.
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