Greetings, I have a 1950, 2 door sedan shoebox.(my first project) I would like to put the body on a newer ch***is. Does anyone know what ch***is is a good mate for this project?Thanks in advance. Larry
What you should do is get a copy of Ch***is Engineering I forget who wrot it but it is at Barnes and Nobles.Thay have a blueprint of a shoebox ch***is.Get a welder and a chop saw.Learn how to weld.If you buy some thing you will have to mod it to fit any way.and you can build it out of aluminum,stainless or 4140,if you want.I started on a T ch***is today and Im about 40% done allready.taking pictures for a future post
What are you looking for in a new ch***is? Jamco has updated suspension and Fatmans has mustang II subframes, either will improve performance. Is there a reason you are looking for a new frame instead?
Building a ch***is from scratch for a hot rod is cake as compared to a p***enger car. A T frame consists of two lengths of straight 2x3 and some kick ups and downs. Throw a few crossmembers in and you're done. Ever actually see what the frames look like from 50s cars? What you're looking for is a frame from an 80's El Camino/Caprice. G-body I think? El Camino is a good wheelbase and close enough width. Plus depending on the motor you plan to run is set up for an SBC and already has power steering/discs.
I`m basically wanting the newer ch***is so I have the newer disc brakes and steering etc. and I want to go with a small block chevy.This is my first build,so I`m looking at all my options. I don`t want a show car ,just a good reliable daily driver that won`t drain me of all my funds. I just picked up this shoebox a week ago,and I`m looking forward to getting started as soon as I find the ch***is I need for this project. Thanks. Larry
Thats a whole lot to undertake on a first build. Like mentioned already you can upgrade with kits out there using your original frame. I wouldnt mess with it unless the frame was totally rotted out. You can upgrade to power drum brakes, 12 volt and a modern V8 and still have the drivability of an all modern suspension.
Jamco has a bolt on front kit here that replaces the front kingpins with ball joints and gives you front disks. A new crossmember with SBC mounts is a pretty easy addition, then Jamco also has parts needed to easily swap in a volvo power steering box and anti-sway bars, if you choose. A 77-80 Lincoln Versailles rear axle (or maverick or granada) will bolt right up, giving you a stouter rear axle and disks in the back. Much easier than swapping the whole ch***is.
This has been debated here a whole bunch. My personal favorite is the s-10 ch***is. It is narrower than the elcamino by 3 inches and the camaro by 5 inches. Plus , it is way easier to adjust the wheelbase to match you car due to the way the factory ***embles them.The front clip/frame section is slid into the mid/rear frame and welded up..The different factory wheelbases of s-10 are set depending on how far the sections are slid together. Simple enough for your average rodder to slice the factory weld and adjust to match your shoebox.Take your time and measure several times ( including diamond ! ) and then weld it up. Modify your drive shaft to fit and motor away . ! I have done the elcamino and camaro and the s-10 and the s-10 is by far the easiest. Just my 2 cents worth. Dave Lewis ;-)
Morrison can make a ch***is to fit but it's costly. I would recommend, for a first build, use the stock ch***is and update with a bolt on mustang 2 front suspension. Lots of vendors listed in rod mags. You can also use lowering blocks for the rear, go 4 link with air ride or coilovers. Lots of choices, cheaper and easier than a new ch***is or trying to fit another model ch***is.
I like the S-10 idea. Do I just cut off the frt. section at the firewall.or do I use the complete frame? This is my first hot-rod build,but I have owned several 50`s cars over the years.The most I ever done to them is an eng.swap etc. They all seemed to handle poorly,like driving a waterbed.I just want something with decent brakes and steering,and a small block.I have a heated shop that is well equipped with all the tools I should need for this project.I`m looking forward to this winter in my shop.Thanks. Larry
i don't use the original frame. install a Mustang II front frame stub from Fatman's . that will give you disc brakes and rack and pinion steering. in the rear , use the original springs de-arched with your choice of later rear...8 or 9 inch ford would be a good choice. the width of the rear will be determined by the rear wheel/tires you want to run install sway bars front and rear....Fatman can sell you the front one with their setup and the rear one get front Ch***is Engineering..if you are serious, pm me and i'll get you the part number also...ditch the stock ford master cylinder and brake pedal and install the power master cylinder and pedal made by Master Power Brakes this is how a safe , reliable and cost effective ch***is is built for a shoebox **** the S-10....they are for *****s . this promoting of s-10 as a cheap / easy way of getting an updated ch***is under an old car HAS got to end
What 36-3window said! The wheel base is all wrong, then the argument goes to having rims made etc. You can avoid all the headaches with a stock frame and a front frame stub mod. I have seen some very nice cars built on S10 frames and it kills it when you see the wheel off center or pulled back inside too narrow.
All the king's horses and all the king's men have not been able to come up a "bolt-on" ch***is for pre-55 cars. WHY? Because car bodies are designed to fit the ch***is and all ch***is are different as are all floorpans, etc. If there is a constant in car building it is use the original ch***is/frame updating as necessary or desired for improvements in steering, ride, handling, brakes, etc. Frame grafts forward of the firewall have been done for decades by racers and street folks too so that's no biggie(however, doing it right is!).
the s-10..... bad and good. BAD. 1. The front end and rear end is too narrow. The ez fix is wheel spacers. it's a hack thing to do but that's up to you. 2. The wheel base is too short. The ez fix is cutting the frame in front of the front leaf spring mounts and using some 2x4 box steel to make the frame longer. don't forget to box it all in for strength. 3. On the s-10 the frame starts to kick up just behind the cab. this might be a problem with your floor. If it is you will have to do some more cutting. 4. The last thing is telling people is has an s-10 frame under it. You could build a bad *** car, but the s-10 thing is kind of GAY. You will loose a lot of respect on your build Good. 1. Many lowering kits are available for s-10 cheep. spindles, tube control arms, 4 links, air bag setups etc... 2. Motor mount kits are also very cheep. 3. s-10's are almost free. I think every junk yard in the country has a bunch of em' you should be abel to get a nice one for between $200 and $400 bucks Have fun, and keep it simple. Don't let people on this message board keep you from doing what you want. It's your car, so do your thing. Most of the people talking **** on here don't even have a hot rod on the road. They spend more time posting than in the shop.. Jeremy...1945
If it's your first build and you don't have a lot of experience, don't jump in over your head. Put it back together with the stock frame, a late rearend, and a new motor and trans, and drive it that way. If you don't like the handling, go to a mustang II frontend kit. It's a lot easier to change even a front frame stub, than the whole frame. Keeping the original frame means you don't need to fabricate new body mounts, new bumper mounts, and so on.
Before you jump into the deep end of the pool, consider the advice from people who have wrestled with the Shoebox many times. You want ride? Stance? Handling? There's just too many ways to (excuse me) skin the cat. Ask the same question on www.Shoeboxford.com and you'll have many less expensive options pointed out than you ever thought were there. And those options will all give a better ride than hijacking a later frame designed for an entirely different body and weight. Look into Fatman's dropped spindles, JAMCO's whole front end setup, the "Boogie Blocks" (ask 'em). And for the rear, there’s always Posies springs or lowering blocks. Don't go pulling the whole body off its frame on your first build unless you have an improvement in mind.
The Jalopy Journal
