Not really very traditional ,but what the hell .Its going on a traditional style g***er .I already have aluminum heads anyway ,so piss on it ,i wanna get in the 12's.My question is how big of a shot can i get away with without burning holes in ****?My 302 H.O. is fresh and it already has forged slugs in it (which i know are mandatory with spray).Will the Edelbrock heads be a problem?I only plan on using it from half track on ,cuz traction is un predictable at best in 1st. ,and my ball problem is in 3rd and 4th.Plus i would rather not break parts off the line .I already run mid 13's ,but i am ready for the twelves.Dont really care to lower my gears from the 3.55's ,cuz its my daily ,so i fgure this is the easiest way to do it.
forged pistons, and a steel crank (reccomended) but...a cast crank can handle a little shot. i ran a 125 horse power shot on a small block chevy with cast crank and pistons for years...with no trouble. i was hitting the ****on right off the line too. it was a small block 400, pretty much stock with an edelbrok performer intake/ cam, 600 holley, and headers. the car was a 71 chevelle, with 3:42 gears and 28 inch tall tires. w/o juice, it ran low 15's....with the juice. knocked it down into the mid 13's. that again was a non adjustable 125 horse n.o.s. powershot set up. i'm not positive, but i think you should be ok with a 125- 150 shot. the thing is...nitrous will not be as noticeable when you hit it at 1/2 track. i've had 3 cars with nitrous, and i'm telling you...the best bang is to hit it right off the line. the last car i had it on was a 70 nova, 396, steel crank, forged pistons, pretty radical cam, 3500 stall, cast iron rectangle port heads, edelbrock torker single plane intake, 850 double pumper, roller rockers, and ****** compe***ion headers. the car had (no joke) 3:08 gears in a stock open 10 bolt rear end...and it ran low 11's on cheater slicks with full exhaust. it was my daily driver, and all i had for a traction aid was ******* bars and 8" wide m&h racemaster dot cheater slicks. i had an n.o.s. plate kit on it, that was adjustable (they reccomend running a second fuel pump for nitrous by the way) and i had it set up with 150 h.p. jets in it. by hitting the juice, right off the line, you build instant rpms...hitting it at 1/2 track, the rpms will not build as quickly. this was my experience anyway. i did it like that all the time, and never had any engine failure...never had a problem. the other engine was also a 396...pretty much stock in a 68 nova. it ran mid 12's with a 125 h.p. powershot with a cast iron intake, headers and a 750 holley vac. secondary. that nova also had an open 10 bolt, with 3:08 gears in it. you should have no problem getting into the 12's with a 125 h.p. shot of juice. but, if traction is a problem off the line...you may not get the results you are looking for. again. the biggest advantage is hitting it right off the line, and spraying it until the end of the 1/4. since you are not running an automatic, i woudl also suggest the throttle activated microswitch for the juice (providing you let out of the throttle during shifts. i have noticed that the slower a car is w/o nitrous, the more drastic it will be with juice. a car that already runs in the 11's will not benefit from a 125-150 h.p. shot of nitrous, as much as a car that runs in the 13's. nitrous is a fun thing, even tho alot of people say it's cheating, or that it will destroy an engine. i have been around it for a long time, and know alot of "nitrous guys" i have never seen an engine failure. but, the chances are higher once nitrous is introduced. all you need is a lean condition once....and that's all it'll take to cook that motor.
Dude, your scared to run it through the back in 3rd because you don't want it to be at 6200 rpm too long. Do you really think you're going to have the cajones to press the ****on on the laughing g***?
Man thanks for all that positive feedback.I have a 6Al box with a 7000 chip in it ,so i dont let off when i shift .I floor it off the line and i dont let off again till i cross the finish line.I would really rather go with a real small shot like 100 or less to start with .Can you recomend a good kit for my needs.I have a 600 Holley carb .
I had the nuts to power shift at temple all day long at 6500+ (six p***es), and i drove it 4 1/2 hours each way by myself without a cell phone in the dark on the way there.So i think i can get it up .Hide and watch.I never said i was afraid to hold it in 3rd , i just said i couldnt bring myself to hold it leveled out at 6500 (cause it quits pullin / all out of cam with a load on it).Your just scared that i will smoke your axle breakin coupe.Ha, ha,ha...
oh come on!!!! i used to take my big block to 7200 all the time....the cam was good 'til 7500......and it was a 2 bolt main block !!! i'm tellin you...once you push the ****on....you'll want to push it all the time...and you'll want more horsepower. i'm not sure if they make a kit 100 h.p. (not in 4 barrel plate kit form anyway) i think the smallest you can get for a holley 4 barrel is 125....but i may be wrong. i am by no means a nitrous answer man...i'm just telling you my experiences. heck, if i had the $$, i'd throw a nitrous kit on my 03 chevy cavalier....just for the fun of it.
If you're only wanting to pick the car up a few tenths, buy a Sniper kit. A 100 shot will get you in the 12's pretty easy. If the car can't handle nitrous all the way through then don't waste your time putting it on.
the sniper...that's it. that's the kit with the little tiny bottle right ?? true, if it can't handle the full 1/4 mile juice treatment...don't waste your time. you'll want to push the ****on from start to finish to get the best bang out out of it. (no pun intended). if done right, nitrous can be a real blast and it can become addicting like cocain...if you run a 125 powershot for awhile....pretty soon you'll want a 150 h.p. shot...and so on. definitly run a secondary fuel pump tho (anythign 125 and up0 i don't think you need a secondary pump for the sniper kit.
Thanks,i think the car can handle it ,i just dont care to break a record or parts right now trying to get an 11 out of it.This is my daily driver for fun, not a pro mod .I would be happy with a 12.99 ,at least for a day or so.I have seen sniper kits ,i think they are the one with orange bottle right.I will check em out and see if they have a 100 shot kit.Thanks again...
i hear you there.....about not wanting to set any records...but you will have a blast with it. nitrous burnouts are alot of fun...lol a few things to note about nitrous. they (n.o.s.) recommends running 1 step colder spark plug, and retarding the timing a degree or 2. also make sure that your fuel system is top notch, and runs at a constant 7 psi. a drop in fuel pressure could make it run lean...and that's when pistons melt really fast with nitrous. i am pretty sure that they also recommend stepping up the carb jets one or 2 sizes. i have not messed with nitrous since the late 80's and i'm sure alot has changed since then as far as the kits and their set ups.
Cool ,i think i will go for it.If nitrous is cheating ,than so are Aluminum heads ,wrinkle wall slicks ,and MSD boxes ,and i saw tons of this **** at Temple this year ,so i aint gunna worry about it .Atleast i will still be shifting a 4 spd while im cheating.You have been a big help ,thanks ...
the Sniper kit has a standard bottle... it has some cheaper components to make it cost effective. I'd suggest the NOS Super Powershot or Edelbrock Performer RPM kits. Both of them contain jets which start at 100hp gains. The Edelbrock Performer kit starts at even lower hp numbers. Your combo with forged pistons will take quite a bit. You could spray 250 no problem ***uming its tuned right. The tuning is the key. I know guys who spray 250 on pump gas... as long as the fuel and spark are up to it you'll have no problems. A 100 shot is basically an idiot proof system. You can't really hurt anything unless you are doing it on purpose or something in the fuel delivery side fails. Nitrous is fun. My recommendation is the Performer RPM kit or the Cheater kit from NOS... they both start at 100hp and go to 250... The extra horse is nice to have... you know... just in case... My ride went from 12.71 @ 104 to 11.08 @ 124 with a 200 shot.
Depending on the jetting... on a 100 hp kit I would retard the timing maybe 4 degrees... going colder on the plugs isn't necessary. I'd run 92 octane for sure and maybe even step up to some 104 race gas. The nitrous companies have their specs set up pretty safe. So I'd go by what the instructions say and you'll be fine!
Not scared at all. I'm trying to get you down in the 12's so we can have some good races. If you puts some slicks, launch hard, and bang gears, you'll learn about breaking parts. It's just a matter of time. I'm getting a 9", so I'll be good for next time. I think you are going about your shift patterns way backwards and it's costing you time. There is know reason to run that engine up to 6800+ in 1st and 2nd. You're not making the same power up there. Shift at 6000ish, which is most likely the top of your power band. In 3rd, hold it instead of shifting at 6000. Like several of us told you before the drags, you'll hit 100 at 6200 rpm. It'll be quicker to run it up another 200 rpm and save a shift into 4th. Or you could just put nitrous in it...
Don't get the sniper,, get one that can go bigger if needed, the edelbrock and NOS systems are the way to go. Shorter tire will help the gear, and kill some wheel speed helping it get of the line, will also make the shift into fourth worthwhile. As for using it only on the big end,, you gain a lot more using it on the short end and wont have to use it as long. Make sure that your fuel system is up to snuff, if it is not there are going to be "explosive" results. Keep the nitrous enrichment a little on the fat side and you sould be able to run hard all day without problems.
Make sure your foot is on the floor when you hit the ****on and the whole time you have it held. If not and you add more air with your foot, the extra fuel won't get there as fast as the extra air. Making it way too lean and that will make it come apart. Basically really exaggerated predetonation or "pinging" Like was mentioned before, you will have to make sure you have adaquate fuel flow and volume when you hit the ****on. If your at 6200 and the carb is a hair lean from jetting, BANG! Even with a 100 shot. I'm sure you already knew this though......just checking.
I was just poking at you man.I know its a matter of time before i break something.I also know the faster i go each race ,the odds are getting greater.
Hey buzzard, i was wrong on my tire size .They are even shorter, can you believe 25 inches.Not 26.5 like i thought.So its proly more like 6600 at 100 instead of 6200 in third...
I have a general question for 4 speed cars with nitrous that I'm not clear on. Ya'll keep talking about keeping his foot on the floor or it will lean out. That makes perfect sense. But what if he uses the switch on the floor system? When he gets off the gas for a missed shift or whatever, the floor ****on is released. Is that safe for the motor? Or does the air hit before the nitrous is out of the fuel system?
Taller rears would help with traction off the line, and let you keep it in 3rd. And get you better mileage on the highway. Might look better, too.
I planned on using a switch on the steering wheel spoke if i could.I am too busy shifting gears with the slop bucket 4 spd. with my right hand to mess with it .Plus i really dont want it under the gas pedal if i can help it...
A good website to read up on nitrous is here: http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/ Shows how to build up a nitrous system from scratch, which I think is the best way to understand what is okay and what isn't. If you are brave enough, drill your own jets, and work your way up from around 20% of your engine capability. If you can afford it, watch your air/fuel ratio with a wideband O2 sensor. I agree with the posts above about retarding the timing and the high octane fuel. Nitrous is not scary, detonation is. Remember that and you'll be fine.
I use the spray ****on useally on the shifter and the line lock on the wheel. If you get stupid on the steering you may hit the spray. But what do I know ?
You can get in and out of the gas with a micro-switch, it won't hurt the motor. Especially with anything less than a 500HP nitrous system.
yeah, mounted right on the carb and it activates the system only under WOT. Its the safest thing for a stick car. Nitrous is at 900-1200psi depending on the temperature of the bottle... its not in the lines long at all. FWIW... the Sniper nitrous kit is a NOS branded kit... its just a different color and uses a cheaper bottle valve and hardware. Solenoids are the same as the Powershot kit.
The problem I had with a micro switch on the carb or the pedal is if you get a lean out while racing you let off the pedal and loose the race with a ****on you just let off the ****on . Than you may still win. You do need a safty switch on the fuel pressure to the nitrous. YOU NEVER want to loose fuel pressure. But still what do I know .
Since you already have the 6AL, get a nitrous retard box to plug into the MSD. The NOS and Edlebrock kits are pretty idiot proof as long as you follow thier recommendations on set up and tuming. You will want to use a throttle activation switch, you want the nitrous to come on ONLY at WOT. You can put the system arming switch anywhere. If you want to get really high tech, get a nitous controller that you can set up to apply nitrous by the gear and /or rpm. As it has been said, once you get nitrous, you will want to use it. Soon you will be looking at slicks, rear suspension, beefed up drive train, possible a quick change, or a nine inch with several pumpkins, a bigger carb, ported heads, roller cam, the list goes on and on. The next thing you know the car is undrivable on the street and you are buying a truck and trailer. Dont ask me how I know this. LOL
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