solid lifter cam oil question

Hello, I just broke in my 265 now 283 chevy with duntov cam and Isky edm solid lifters. I used 15-40 shell rotella oil, Isky cam and lifter paste, and Crane camshaft break in lube. I ran it at 2000-2500 for 30 minutes. Can anyone reccomend a brand of oil that would help protect the cam and lifters now that zinc has been removed from most oils? Thanks

 

Some might disagree with me but I would suggest amsoil. It is a synthetic and I have used it in all of the race motors that we build in the shop and have never and I repeat never had a bit of trouble with either the break in process or longevity of the engines under the most severe of punishment.

 

i run Rotella all the time.

matt

 

Shell Rotella T has had no zinc for a year or so, at least.

 

BRAD PENN enough said. pool

 

My engine builder friend had 2 solid lifter motors that had premature cam failures this year. After investigating he found out ash and zinc have been removed. GM has an oil additive to replace it.(Available at dealers) You should also run a 20/50 weight oil.

 

Im gona start a solid lifter mill for the first time maybe this weekend. I bought Valvoline Racing VR1 oil. It says it contains ZDDP on the label. Plus I will add a bottle of their oil treatment for the inital breakin. Ill probably do my changes with the same oil.

 

Redline oil will work for solid lifter cams.
r

 

Maybe OT but don't I remember something about early SBC needing a notch or flat spot on the rear cam journal to lube the distributor gear? It's hell to get old and only remember part of this stuff.

 

well....i run it in my 265, with solid lifters and havent had any problems...

matt

 

who's BRAD PENN?

 

My motor guru had me add a quart of lucas oil stabilizer to my old mechanical cam motor. I'm in love with the stuff now.

 

Here is an oil analysis done recently from a motorcycle using rottela T it does have Zinc in it maybe reduced from previous formulas but its still there

Basic Information
Bike: 2007 Honda GL1800 Goldwing (shared sump wet clutch design)
Miles on unit: 6,386
Miles on oil: 2,724
Months on oil: 2 months (June and July) <-- Avg outside temps: 95 to 110 degrees F.
Oil: Shell Rotella T 15W-40 CJ-4 Triple Protection
Filter: Honda OEM
Lab: Blackstone

Results
Aluminum: 6
Chromium: 0
Iron: 12
Copper: 20
Lead: 1
Tin: 0
Molybdenum: 17
Nickel: 0
Manganese: 0
Silver: 1
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 0
Boron: 20
Silicon: 8
Sodium: 3
Calcium: 2021
Magnesium: 16
Phosphorus: 868
Zinc: 1085
Barium: 1

Sus@210F (should be 68 - 78): 69.5
FlashInF (should be > 390): 390
Fuel&#37; (should be < 2.0): trace
Antifreeze% (should be 0): 0
Water% (should be < 0.1): 0
Insolubles% (should be < 0.6): 0.2

TBN (started out ~10.1): 6.1
Im still using it and just broke my new motor in on it and Comp cams suggests using it for break in as well

 

Valvoline Racing Oil has more of those lubricants than the Shell. I use 20/50 in everything.

 

maybe this will help....

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html

"Comp Cams swears by Shell Rotella T diesel oil for use inhigh-performance street cars"

 

Brad Penn is supposed to be high in Zinc etc..

Check the codes on the Rotella.
The newer stuff isn't as good.

If you are lucky,you can find some of the old GM EOS.
GM had to pull it from the shelves.
The replacement EOS is coming,chances are it won't be as good as the original.

 

I heard that STP red (4 cyl) is very high in zinc. The Lucas additive is also supposed to be good.

 

STP red is decent,but not easy to find.
EOS is has a LOT more Zinc.

 

Valvoline VR 1 Racing oil, it comes in 10w30,20w50 or 30,40,50 and 60 weight.

zinc : 1300 ppm
phosphorus : 1200 ppm
calcium : 2500 ppm

STP in the red bottle (four cylinder formula) has lot's of ZDDP (zinc) and you can buy it at any Checkers/Chucks/Kragens.

 

Brad Penn is the old Kendall green. Kendall was bought out by Conoco-Phillips several years ago, kept the Kendall name, but not the refinery. Refinery still operates & is probably the best mineral oil out there...

I'd buy it if I could get it locally...

 

I have 6 cases of Arco 20w50 graphite motor oil. We used to use it in the gearcase of our racing outboards; nothing worked better. Does anyone Know how this would work for cam break in as it has extremely high shear properties? It is metallic black in color so you can't see any bearing problems from looking at the oil. Graphite is a conductor so plugs fowel quick if your engine uses oil. Its ability to combat wear were superior to any other oil of that period, however it was not at all compatible with cat converters. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. thanks

 

E.O.S. is gone, and it ain't comin' back.

 

Remember your Alliance vendors! We have BRAD PENN 20/50, 10/30 and 50 weight cases in stock.

http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_dept.asp?dept_id=22

 

Amsoil is good...Brad Penn is good...

 

This months hot rod ( with dale jr on the cover) has an article about cup racing teams... side bar has info about the shell sponsored team that quotes a shell engineer saying rotella has loads of zinc. IMO rotella or delo400 ( any diesel rated oil) has to be better for high performance use because diesel engines have issues... 1,high compression.2,high contamination....any oil that can handle 24 to 1 comp and dilution gets my vote.
personal favorite is valvlone all fleet 15/40. it's hard to find though so i use delo 400 ( cosco stocks it, in gallon jugs )
dave ;-)

 

Effective 1 Jan 07, new formulation diesel oils had to reduce the zinc levels. You can spot these as rated CJ-4 - older oils are CI-4/CI-4+

 

I have Brad Penn available also, for those in the Seattle area.


Fred

 

EOS is gone - GM has discontinued it. Any body know what the MOPAR equivalent name is - supposed to be as good as EOS

 

All diesel oils went through a formula revision effective 1/1/07. Less zinc in all of them. I wonder how old this quote is.