Another option if you want to go with a Ford engine is the 89 - 94 Ford Taurus 3.0 L SHO V6, it's actually made by Yamaha. They have 220 HP. There's one on craigslist - South Bend for $250.00
If you want big power, go big. Junkyard Cads are usually under $600, and usually solid long blocks as is. Everything costs more than a Chevy, but not as bad as a real 50s or 60s vintage engine. Schrader's has adapters to run early Caddy valve covers, and you can get a magneto-look HEI (those are pretty big bucks, though). HP per Dollar it is a good value. Weighs like a small block, too. Down side: The intake is butt-ugly. Most of the readily available dress up stuff is not at all traditional. If you want small and funky... late 70's thru 81 BMW 320i (between the 2002 and the 318/ 325). 4 cylinder, all aluminum (I think the block is aluminum - my magnet won't stick), including the valve cover and oilpan. All were mechanical injection/ points ignition (which can be fixed with a conversion pickup kit). Remove the plastic peices, replace the fuel lines with stainless, and polish away. I just bought a whole car that was a regular driver when parked 2 years ago, for $200. I will keep the 5 speed. Maybe the IRS and 4 wheel discs, too. They also came with 4 speeds and automatics. All 320Is (sport model) had a 5 speed I think. It is the same engine/ trans as the fastest factory 2002 race cars, in a heavier car. Put it in a lighweight streetrod, and it will move out nicely. My score is for the '19 Overland Phaeton my daughter is building, but I passed up several running-but-ragged-out cars for under $500 due to lack of storage, and the drivetrain portion of the project being too far away. Parts are not hard to come by - there is an independant BMW repair shop in almost any good sized city, and most have their own parts department. There are several good mail order joints, too. They are not rare, but they are not on every corner, and I've never seen BMW power in a traditional rod. It will certainly cause head scratching a-plenty at rod runs I intend to polish the valve cover until the propeller disapears.
i dont even kno what the 3.0 would hook up to. but according to what i just looked up(thank you wikipedia!), it could work but 250 right now for an engine is not something i have (just got a new daily driver cuz the old one konked out a bit earlier than expected so funds just went down big time).but it is pausible i guess im not wise to the price on hemis but unless its an early one, dont they command a high price? ive seen a number of the big lincolns still rolling around like the giant rusting dinosaurs that they are, might be a good idea. theres a 2002 by my mom's that i've seen for sale in the paper occasionally, i dont kno if the guy still has it though.
i think it would be a bit over kill, plus a bit harder to find out here for a decent price (under 500 bucks for a core). though that would probably disqualify the hemi as well.
The 300 Buick is a cast iron block with aluminum heads only for one year, 1964 I believe. Then next year they changed to all cast iron. A complete rebuild kit runs around $800-900.00 in e-pay. I have a couple I just snagged from a buddy of mine, also have a couple 215 all aluminum Buick's. They are almost the same as the later Rover engines, depending on displacement. Do a search on 215 Buick here on the Hamb and there is a bunch of good info and links. Many of them in response to my queries. I rebuilt one about 20 yrs. ago and put it in a 280Z with an adapter from D&D. It would stay with a 5.0 Mustang up to about 120 then the diff. in displacement would show. In a lighter weight car it would be all most folks would want, and it got over 20mpg. if I drove it sanely. The reason most folks go with SBC is parts availability and cost. The SBF is as good or better now with all the 5.0 and truck usage over the years. The interchangeability is not as good tho.
Volvo B20 Engine is going in my T. All iron and no from timing belt. I love the look and the solidness. It looks similair to a banger with OHV and easily about 120 hp, about he same as a high dollar, hopped up flathead. By the way, bought a good running 69 Volvo for $400 and plan to used the complete drive train including the dual Stomberg Zenith carbs. I'm so excited, I have to sit down now.
im in talks with one of the fellows off here for his rover v8 but its not set in stone (i've got to raise the cash and he's got to find a diesel to replace it) the rover is like the equivalent the SBC to the brits. but if it doesnt work out, im thinking the Ford 2.3 if i go 4 banger, or the sixes i mentioned earlier. but if something else comes my way, i may just go oddball with a BMW or something.. i've heard theres many a person who throws a 5.0 in their volvos, they will should be out there. i didnt think of it before but its interesting that u mention it.
A very over looked and easy to find engine is the Ford 300 six.They have been used since the late 70s and tons of them will have a very durable three speed attached.There is quite a few aftermarket performance parts being made for them.It will harder to find used parts but the new ones are there.The lower ends are almost bullet proof.If I remember correctly they have seven main bearings.Easy to find and cheap to purchase with gobs of torque.
Early SHO motors can be mated to an auto trans from an Aerostar.The electronics are a nitemare and expensive.
they apparently can be adapted to other Ford transmissions as well. but you probably are right on the electronics. its probably a matter of making sure the sensors are all in the same place or to similar devices/places and that could be both a nightmare and a money pit. ive thought about it as well. i bought a recent Fast Fords and Mustangs with a build up of a Turbo 6. it shouldnt be too hard to find one out here, trucks last forever (or people at least keep them that long) the only y-block i kno of out here is that 2 dr wagon by my house. i doubt the guy wants a low price on it, though it is a basketcase.
If $250 is out of the question right now, this whole discussion is sort of a waste huh ? If your priorities are cheap, easy and plentiful, you've already ruled out the no brainer answer. SBC's are traditional, but as alot of people think, they are sort of belly button too. I'm hoping and praying that the blower helps set mine apart from the crowd...............actually, I don't care. I've had a flathead powered car, and I got a kick out of it, spent lots of money on it, and still worried about straying to far from home.......It was cool, but I'll be driving my SBC powered car alot more.
you dont have to have money in hand just to talk ideas, i figured here was the best place to get some ideas on what to keep an eye out for around where i live. I should also clarify, 250 is out of the question today, but not for longi'd have that much soon, but the not by the end of the craigslisting. i just found a chevy 6 on craigslist that i'm inquiring about out of a 76 camaro
I have a '73 Volvo 6 cyl (B-something) with the dual strombergs. Rebuilt the carbs right before the fuel pump failed. New fuel pump on the side of the highway (a few days later when I got the pump), and it spun a rod bearing before I got into town (fuel in the oil). Gave up, and it has sat for almost 2 years I think. I have $186 in the carb repairs and fuel pump. The water pump (a little over $200) has less than 2000 miles on it. If someone wants the carbs (I think $175 is fair for the carbs), you can have the rest of the car with it for free. The tires were even decent. I am moving my stash in a few months, and probably not moving this one to the new place. If not, the goodies will get stashed for another project, and I'll send the rest to the crusher.
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