Today I started pulling my shoebox suspension apart, cleaned the rear end, replaced a bunch of shit. I was going to POR-15 everything. Only problem is that I didn't order it, so I went to OSH and got a 7 buck quart of Rustoleum and went to town. I prepped it all real good, wire wheel, brush, and cleaned after. I got the rear end all painted up, looks fucking nice, but does anyone know how it will hold up? I have seen the POR treatment in action, it is tough shit. This is not as tough, but looks like it will be a million times better then a rattle can job. Any experience?
I've painted a few automotive frames and sub-frames with Rustoleum brush paint...including DIRTYT's "Flying Monkey" 51 Ford. It holds up real well in normal use (that is to say...NOT over salty, rainy, pot-holed Michigan roads! ) for quite a while and is easy to apply and touch-up if neccessary. Can't hardly go wrong for the cost involved!!
I'm doing the exact same thing on my 49' right now. I just took the body off the frame, wire wheeled it and I'm going to use foam brushes to put satin black rustoleum on.
john deere industrial enamel black over epoxy primer tinted black is my plan...with a brush, too. Easy to keep touched up, easy to clean, harder than the hubs of hell....but>>>SEM just came out with a new satin black that is pretty impressive...stuff is called Hot Rod black..ya cant scratch this stuff, and it is impervious to brake fluids oils...check it out. We had a demo of it about 2 weeks ago at my shop where I work...and I may consider that option too as things get serious .
Been on my Merc for four years, not a spot of rust. I live in the Northwest, land of rain. No, I don't have a garage! Sits outside, 24/7..........OLDBEET
A friend of mine rolled it on his frame. I think it turned out great. he just used a brush to get the corners and such. It actually leveled out pretty good and didn't run.
When I swaped rear axles in my Dodge I coated the new one in Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer and then painted it with Rustoleum satin plack. I used a brush for all of it and it is going on 5 years now. Only damage to the paint is where I lifted the rear end up with a jack on the bottom of the pumpkin- otherwise still looks great! Jay
I used spray Rustoleum on some rims years ago. Lasted quite a while, even through the salt. Should be good enough on a car you're not running through that crap.
We've done it on a couple of parts and never had a problem...BUT - you can always thin it out with lacquer thinner and it will go on smoother and not show brush marks.....the stuff is way too thick out of the can.
Most important thing using Rustoleum is not applying it over a non-compatible primer, which means for all intents to use Rustoleum primer. The paint has fish oil in it and reacts very creatively with many primers.
I sandblasted my 54 Ford frame and did brush a industral red primer on it and then brushed a semi-gloss industral enamel on as a finish coat. HRP
I thought they quit making the fish oil based rustoleum. Is the 'new' XO Rust different (I didn't know they had changed)?
Yes, none of the new Rustoleum has the fish oil. I've used it on rear housings and also on the rear brake drums on my daily driver. The housings usually get stone and salt blasted off within a year or so. I live in the N.E. The drums have lasted a few years before showing rust again. I beleave I would have had better results if I had rusty-metal primed them first. Frank
right on guys, thanks for the encouraging words, considering i've already started. now i am confident in it's ability. nexxussion--the can states it's oil based, fish oil...? hagen hot rods--i didn't thin it. i used a lot of it on the rear end, brushed it on with a cheapo brush. the brush marks smoothed out in about five minutes of sitting. and i just went into the garage, and it looks real nice. thanks again.
I have done it too. For me it held up pretty good all over except on the body mounts. It chipped off a bit there. Looked pretty good too!
Take your time and get something better that Rust-Oleum. I have done it and POR, and have lots of experience with both. When I re-did the MII front suspension on my 53 F-100 I used R-O. R-O Primer and 2-3 coats color. I had to leave the truck outdoors, but covered one winter.. When I moved it back indoors and crawled under it to position the jack stands.. I got really really pissed at the rust that popped up on everything. It was everywhere. Skip forward a few years, I was redoing the front suspension on my 95 Impala SS. I decided to put POR-15 to the test, so I painted the centerlink, idler arm, and tie-rod adjusters with POR (2 coats) and then painted the inner and outer tie-rods, and steering box with 2-coats R-O primer, and two coats top coat. After the winter (I hated to have to drive my SS in the snow BTW), I crawled under to check it out. I wiped the grime off the centerlink, and it looked new, still shiny. The R-O stuff was starting to show a little rust here and there, and not just from around the threads either. I am dead set on using POR any chance I can get. It lays out with a brush very very nicely and evenly, and looks like epoxy or powdercoat. It's tougher is chip resistance too. The only downside is that it fades and goes flat if exposed to UV light. It looks worse, but it does not seem to affect performance any. So, if your frame is covered entirely by body, no worries.
Rustoleum is the best and most cost effective choice. You MUST get rid of most of your rust off the part for it to last damn near forever, though. I nornally sandblast all my chassis' and so far the one has been done in Rustoleum semi gloss and sitting outside for 8+ years, no damage whatsoever.
They use it on alot of equipment where I work and the only places it does not last is where we smack it with tools or if they did not clean the surface good before applying. I would do it.
been kind of busy, but i wire wheeled some of the frame, and brushed on the primer, looks nice so far.
The Jalopy Journal
