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Which welder would you buy?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by countrysedanman, Nov 11, 2007.

  1. Many guys on here seem to like them but I would never buy a 110 unit, ever. I would rather wire the garage for 220 than have a 110 welder. When I pull the trigger I like to see and hear an instant puddle, not cross my fingers and hope it's penetrating as it seems to strain to lay down a decent bead. You should try them both and then decide.
     
  2. valkokir
    Joined: Oct 25, 2007
    Posts: 196

    valkokir
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Just bought a Hobart Handler 140 2 weeks ago, I'm happy with my decision though I haven't put many hours on it. It is well made and uses the same gun as the miller (model escapes me but M10 comes to mind?) The guys at the welding shop were wanting to sell me a Weldmark Handler 140 which is a rebranded Hobart . Local farm store carries Hobart parts, wire, etc and that helped the decision. If I get myself in a situation it won't handle I'll tack it and take it to a pro or use O/A. And my decision was not based on needing to run 220, that was a non-issue. It was budget and need (beginner) based. Cost $460 and included the cart and gas regulator.

    Also, keep your gas cylinder in mind in your budget. A filled 92 C-25 bought outright cost me $211. You can go without gas but I wouldn't.
     
  3. Tig Welder
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 27

    Tig Welder
    Member
    from Eastern Wa

    I have the Miller model 180 at home, runs good, guns kinda light if your doing heavy welding (IE Flux Core on structual steel). Cooked all the paint off the anti-cord fatigue spring where it leaves the gun housing. That was kinda an extreme situation, although it was doing work within it's intended design parameters. Plenty of power for automotive purposes, went Miller cause it seems it was a good couple hundred less then the comparable Lincoln. My dad has a Hobart Handler 220v pretty good machine, wish it had more adjustability on voltage control.
     
  4. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Another vote that if it's Hobart or Miller, go with the cheaper cause they're the same. I recently picked up a Hobart 250 Airforce plasma cutter. Exact same thing in Miller blue is a Spectrum 125C.

    There's a Lincoln SP135+ in my garage. You wouldn't go wrong with one of those either. Good luck
     
  5. Scrap Heap
    Joined: Aug 11, 2005
    Posts: 190

    Scrap Heap
    Member

    I just bought a Hobart Handler 210. Haven't got to use it yet but it came highly recommended. Go to the Hobart weld talk forum, they will have all the info you need.
     
  6. strike a poser
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 399

    strike a poser
    Member
    from Salinas,CA

    My $.02, go with a 220v welder, brand be damned. You can always throttle it back, you can't make a 110v go hotter.
     
  7. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,874

    Chris Casny
    Member

    I agree with Kiwi Kev on 220V welders, 110v units are great on sheetmetal, but any structual work, needs 220V.
    Get a Lincoln 175, 220V, relatively cheap, and plenty of juice to build a car.
    Miller is a great brand, I have a Syncrowave 200 tig, and I have 2 Lincolns migs, I love them all. Stay away from the no name brands.
     
  8. 1931S/X
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 667

    1931S/X
    Member
    from nj


    yeah my new handler 210 had the same issue. pulled the valve apart and there it was clear as day. this machine has really surprised me, it still throws me for a loop that such a small package cranks out so much power. im used to my little lincoln that i keep maxed out all the time, well when i did the 1/4s on my dart i think i may have turned the heat down a notch. maybe. you can get by with a 140 with car stuff but if you are going to do any kind of frame work or roll bars, you really should go with a 180 and a bottle of 75/25.
     

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