some metal spray pics of my 54 belair

that is the secret the place down the street is spraying an inferior wire that will debond if you grind on it so hence im sorry what me and the other guy spray is something completly different the others are spraying zinc wire . there will be problems with that if you use zinc the reasons they are spraying zinc wire is they have a machine that is to small in output to spray the proper wire . but your right same idea as that .

 

one wire is neg one wire is pos and they meet and uses compressed air to blow the metal on the surface at around 125 deg f so you dont warp the panels and mechanically bonds to a freshly sand blasted surface .

 

I believe it's zinc. It can be sprayed at pretty low temperatures and you just build it up and file or sand away. It isn't steel, I can guarantee that. It's like pure galvanized hence the bad bad fumes. check out rustbusters.com maybe?

 

I will come on from time to time with updated pics as I get more done on the car . I was more posting on here to show my car than anything else and I will post pics of the frame work when i get around to that if its ok with others on here that work should start sometime in feb when i get a free spot on my frame jig . this is my website www.progasengineering.com hope this is ok if not ill edit that .

 

There's another process that works with an O/A torch. Comes with a special torch gun. As you warm the metal, you literally spray metal powder. The adhesion isn't great and it takes a while to be confident with it. I use it mostly to repair rusty oil pans at work while they're in the truck.

 

Is there a shielding gas like CO2 or Argon?

 

Yes.. post updates!
And links to your own site are fine too.
Nice looking work on your site, by the way.

 

here is a link to the type of machine Im using http://www.thermach.com/at-400.html

 

the problems with the torch type system in body work is it would warp the panels . the system i use you can spray and put your bare hand on the surface immediatly after .

 

This web site will help, to understand how it works.

http://www.gordonengland.co.uk/cws.htm

 

O ya, I wouldn't use it for bodywork, just another system for a different use.

 

wow, this process is cool as hell.

 

there must be a special drill bit to remove the stainless trim screws I have some really good hss bits and they wouldnt touch them any sugguestions I had to grind off all the heads to remove the rear window trim and the drip rail trim but would like to drill the holes out for the future putting new screws back in . perhaps somekind of carbide bit?these screws are harder than anything ive encountered in the past .

 

My manufacturing facility has a larger machine than the one shown previously. Ours is a double wire feed and we can literally coat anything with metal from foam to rubber to wood.. It uses an arch that atomizes the metal and forced air to spray onto the sub straight. We usually start with a base metal spray, say like zink as a cheap build up, then coat with anything from bronze to copper. On some of our other base metals such as aluminum you can polish it right up to a purdy little shine. We use it a lot to coat GFRG castings in bronze.

Oh yeah, try a good set of short shank COBALT bits from McMaster-Carr for your trim problem.

 

I had a look at your website,great to study the shots of the Dart.I saw it as it progressed at your old shop.I used to deliver parts to the truck shop,next door.

 

i had a gentleman in seattle spray some stainless steel coating on a food processing machine and they called it "spray welding" worked really well and very durable as it was in a high wear area. cool stuff.

 

cobalt bits waste of time broke 3 of them will try carbide bits next I cant be the only person that has run across this screw problem ? wondering if possibly i tried annealing them with my unispotter might work? the cobalt got one screw out and that was it I have quite a few to remove . and there are alot even if i could anneal them couldnt get in there with a unispotter anyways . In 22 years of machining fabricating etc.. Ive never run across anything this tough .

 

My dad has one of those spray welders and it works great. We used it to fix the top of the doors for a shoebox chevy and some rot spots on the 36 we built.

 

i know what to use to drill stainless screws,but im sorry i cant tell you its a secret

 

Interesting idea. For a repair like the trunk lip where there are large holes, do you put something behind the rust holes first to support the repair ? What sort of thickness does it end up ?

 

yes on the large holes around the trunk You have to put a back up strip in but that can be removed when your done .