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rear wheel access question with lowered cars

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by t-town-track-t, Nov 27, 2007.

  1. t-town-track-t
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 884

    t-town-track-t
    Member
    from Tulsa

    ok, so I got my '62 falcon almost completely lined out for the road. I dropped the front end pretty severely, and now I am focusing my attention to the rear end.

    I am making my own lowering blocks and they will result in a drop that is just a hair over 2" from where the car currently sits. I am not worried about scrub line issues, however I am concerned about access to the rear tires/wheels. These cars are already pretty difficult to change the rear tires. The fender wells come down so far that there is barely room to clear the arches. It goes without saying that there will be 2" less after I lower it.

    I guess I have several options:

    pull the shackle bolts and lower the whole rear end
    unbolt the upper shock mount
    completely deflate the tires and fold them down
    not lower the rear end

    none of these are exactly something you would want to do on the side of the highway. The car is not going to be a daily driver (I say that now, they always end up becoming that).

    How many of you guys out there have this issue, what creative solutions have you come up with, and am I the only guy that thinks its totally worth being a pain to be down so low?
     
  2. Gas Huffer
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 271

    Gas Huffer

    I'm trying to think, but are you jacking the frame and still having clearance issues? My truck sits pretty low but with lifting the frame vs. axle it's just enough to clear my bias plies, but not the temporary radials I have on it. With the radials, I had to deflate them in order to put them on.
     
  3. t-town-track-t
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 884

    t-town-track-t
    Member
    from Tulsa

    yes, I am jacking on the frame and completely "unloading" the rear suspension, and @ stock ride height (considering 40 years of spring sag), the wheels come out only just barely. So I know i am going to have issues once its had lowering blocks added.

    I'm committed enough to the end result to go through with it and just have to deal with it. I'm just curious about any creative solutions to it, and who else here has decided to just live with it
     
  4. t-town-track-t
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 884

    t-town-track-t
    Member
    from Tulsa

    here is an example of how a stock falcon sits:

    [​IMG]

    jacking up on the frame allows just enough suspension drop to remove the tire.
     
  5. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,160

    Dreddybear
    Member

    I have 3" blocks on the back of my 63 comet (i'm pretty sure they're the same). I can only get my wheels off if I unload the axle completely (both wheels), but they do come off.
     
  6. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Check to figure out where the limit to full suspension droop comes in...spring/shackles or shocks. In other words, let it drop, then see if removing a shock end only allows more droop or not.
    If the shock is the limit...
    1. Once you know where to reach and what size wrench, loosening one end wouldn't be all that hard...
    2. You might be able to find an interchangeable shock with longer travel but still short enough compression limit to allow enough droop.
    If shackles and spring are the limit...ouch. Carry several cans of fix-a-flat and pray?
     
  7. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    I feel your pain..my 53 is not ground s****ing low but with the tires i have on it and my set up I am very close to not being able to get my tire and wheels out..I definetly cant change the tire size any larger or im screwed..

    I have an idea..you might not like it..but i will put it out there anyway..
    Get a solid front axle rase the **** out of it..cut open the rear wheel wells and make a g***er out of it!..you will definetly be able to remove the rear tires no problem..
    Sorry just trying to help
     
  8. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a similar case on my old 60 El Camino. I had to undo the lower shock mount to let it droop down enough for the tire to clear the fender lip. Not a real big deal, just a small amount of extra work.
     
  9. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Nice lookin' falcon..always loved the 63's...not much different than the 62's..looks like a sweet little ride
     
  10. To remove the rear wheels on my 2" lowered 55 Plymouth with skirts, I have to remove the skirts, then jack the ch***is up (not the rear axle) so the body lifts away from the wheel. I keep jacking (up, not off) until the tire is about 1 1/2" off the ground. Then I just have enough room to pull the wheel out.
     
  11. A scissor-jack between the leaf and the frame works well. I also suggest carrying a high-lift jack and stands....**** happens :)

    Bryan
     
  12. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,302

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    Mine is the same. I have to let the air out of the tire, jack up the frame, let the rear axle settle and then wiggle the tire out carefully. I also know that if there is no air in the tire, the frame is going to be too close to the ground to get any kind of normal jack under. Not a good option while stranded along the road, except for maybe the no air part.

    Some people likely would just carry some stop-flat in a can and hope for the best.

    Myself, I carry a puncture repair kit (tire plug and tool) and I have adapted a port on my air ride system for a standard compressor quick disconnect. Included in my bag of stuff is a 20 foot long yellow plastic coiled air hose and tire chuck. I figure this will get me out of most problems, or at least allow me to air up to get off the road or into a parking lot (unless there is a catastrophic failure. Even with no air ride, you could utilize a small portable air tank for the same purpose.

    Another option is praying you will never have a problem or that you have trusty friends to get you out of a mess!
     
  13. Sooowee
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 86

    Sooowee
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    I second what Rusk (Bryan) said...especially about **** happening! I know about that from personal experience!
     
  14. teddyp
    Joined: May 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,195

    teddyp
    Member

    i have the same problem with my 58 ford i have to jack the frame take some air out of the tire this winter i,m putting air shocks on to see if it brings the axle drown more has anyone try this?
     
  15. gearsforguts
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 436

    gearsforguts
    Member
    from temple,pa

    i had the same problem on my 61 falcon with 2 inch blocks,my grandpop told me to jack it up all the way and pull the tire towards you as far as you can and slide the drum off and hang it from the wheel studs,then angle the tire and pull it out,it work for my falcon
     
  16. Fishtail8
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 366

    Fishtail8
    Member

    Are you trying to pull it straight off, or pulling it so it comes off the studs and then pulling it out at an angle? If I'm jacked on the frame, with the susp at full droop on my poncho, there's enough backspacing to pull it off the studs and then tilt it to clear the body. Can you trim the fender lip back to gain more room?
     
  17. shoveled71
    Joined: Jun 3, 2007
    Posts: 159

    shoveled71
    Member

    I had to take a hammer and bend the rear fender lip up on my 65 Chevelle,had Corvette rallys and wide BF Goodrichs on back, even then had to let the air out and wiggle the tire out, carried a plug in compressor to air it back up. Spike
     

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