I've got a buyer for my 56 F100 but he wants it with a big window. I know a kit as sold by Natl. Parts Depot & others. Has someone here installed one of them & how was the fit? I'm leary of getting into too much cost and time to convert the cab if the fit of sheetmetal is bad & the gl*** does not fit. Besides NPD who else sells kits and are there differences in quality? He's willing to pay for materials & labor so I want to get him the best alternative.
Hey guy hit me with a pm. But Midfiftys, Hotrodtrucks.com, No-limit engineering, the truck shop in california, Cl***ic Auto Parts in Okc City, Mike Chessers auto emporium in Lawrenceville, Ga all sell the section. Goodmark industries in Lawrenceville makes the section. It is a good piece and the install is not to bad. I have two friends here in Middle TN who have used the section. One is in a finished truck. http://truckbuildermagazine.com/Media/PublicationsArticle/TB_0710_53SilverF100_2.pdf Just PM me
The small window cab looks better, we're supposed to think the big window looks better because they're rare...There's a reason not many were sold.
The cheap farmer would not pony up the extra 19 dollars ... that is why they are rare. Same for Fordomatic and a radio ... all on the unusal side on 56 F-100's. I have owned almost a half dozen " Big Window 56's " BUT now that they have a kit to do it and are making the new gl*** also ... the appeal is lessened . If everyone thought the little window looked better ... there would not have been enough demand to reproduce the kit ...
My question was how is the quality? Big vs small (window) is not the issue. Maybe to women, but not in this case. I've had my small window 56 for 10 years but want to sell it to work on a 50'ish chev with a 7" chop. The buyer had an original 56 big window in the 50's -60's & wants to get back to what he had. He's willing to pay for the conversion. Do any Hamb vendors sell these? I'll buy from them first.
I have 2 '56's, 1 is an original big window, 1 is a conversion. The fit and quality of the kit is very good. The only hard part is welding the lower seem slow enough to not warp the back panel. I used an original gl*** in the conversion hole, and used the repop rubber w/no stainless trim. I found the rubber came up a little short on the corners. The cheapest place I found was mid-fifty f100, they also had it in stock(many did not) and they were the cheapest on shipping. I think it was about $525 to my door.
www.midfifty.com kicks ***. They only sell stuff for 53-56 F-100's. That's it, nothing else. They really know their stuff too.
+1. They also carry a lot of stuff that no one else does. Though, on occasion, I've used Blue Oval Truck Parts in Long Beach to get parts for my panel truck.
Ma Bell thought that the extra visability that the big window offered was safer in 1956. They had them for phone company trucks in SoCal, phone company green with utility beds.
According to the handy 2007 catalog I have right here, it's still the same price. Thay also have the kit in steel for $495
Conversion sheet metal...500 Rear gl***.......................250 Gl*** seal........................ 50 Stainless Steel trim......... 350 (if you can find it...) ...or...Repro Aluminum.... 250 Labor to install...a good body man should be able to do it in a day ***uming that either the cab is off the frame or the bad has been removed. Oh yeah...don't forget the shipping!
Just working on a 56 f-100 converting a small window to big I bought a cab cut the window went up to the roof and down the r/l sides to the striker area. Kept my original back panel replaced 6 inches of the lower cab corners with pre made panels. My body is gutted no gas tank or interior or good gl***. My cab is off the truck and on a rolling elevated box tubing jig The body is secured at its original spots and is level with the concrete floor Have to brace the door openings Critical to adjust the lines vertically at doors My cab is completely blasted to bare metal. Get out your drill and remove all the spot welds carefully separate the old window surround remove it from cab back. This is the second time around because you have to prep the used part i just blasted it and the ground it smooth. There is an interior metal reinforcement for big back windows it attaches on the inside at the top of the window opening ad goes r/left keeps the upper body panel straight at the window opening Next pinch weld primer Moisture between the panel will rust bleed through you body work leave a line Next spring it on one side then over the other clamps or an occasional self tapping screw Im 3 inches below the window horizontal, once its tight on the back I use the lenco spot welder nice tight no voids can start in the center watch the panel make sure its centered and follows the curvature of the panel it is NOT flat it is convex Now the hard part full weld across the back. If you warp it your[ screwed]I weld and cool with wet rag it took me 3 hrs just on back panel. Grind welds flat . I always use Marson MarGl*** first coat press it down hard on the metal. The resin is somewhat water proof unlike bondo. When it hardens then remove the top to flatten it out, blow it off and use quality filler to smooth and finish, I hit it with the Da and 36 grit first takes the top of for this finish i start with 36 to 80 to 100 hand board file no machine.I do not use spot putty[ ever] Once you prime outside I would recommend 3m rubberized undercoat inside especially at the weld site on back panel seal the moisture out.Oh i have done about 50 years in the body trade and I learn every day your looking at 2 days prep time a day welding an 2 days to primer. NO way possible to do this one man one day.I paid $750 w gl*** for the cab back used. Baron Von Vasnic
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