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rear lowering block question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by repentsinner, Dec 1, 2007.

  1. i know i know search old threads, and i did, like 17 pages of them. but here i am. question is....the angled leaf spring shims that allow you to correct your pinion angle, how do you know to get the 2" or the 4" shim etc...and then which way does the angle face?

    thanks
     
  2. toadfrog
    Joined: Dec 2, 2006
    Posts: 299

    toadfrog
    Member
    from Arkansas

  3. HotRodDaddy-O
    Joined: Oct 20, 2006
    Posts: 637

    HotRodDaddy-O
    Member

  4. perfect, thanks guys.
     
  5. One more question regardin the pinion angle.....is this something that everyone corrects? You always read " blocks in the back" but adding the shims and correcting the pinion angle is this always done? What is directly affected? The driveshaft angle?

    thanks
     
  6. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    Assuming nothing else is changed......adding blocks does not cause the pinion angle to change.
     
  7. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    No matter what you do for rear suspension, the pinion angle needs to be pretty close to the accepted "correct" angle. The factory engineers go to great lengths to get this dimension correct for driveline smoothness and long life. As soon as we start modifying and changing our suspension and ride height.....we screw up all the work they so painstakingly did.......so, we need to put everything back in order by correcting that angle by using angled blocks, different arms or links or whatever. This angle can directly effect u-joint life and prevent driveline "shake".
     
  8. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    i didn't use a shim, and i have a bunch of non matching chevy parts bolted together to make a car. still works. I had to use a 2" and a 3" block to make the car sit level.
     

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