I agree with the posts about keeping the 216, if it runs good. The 235 and 261 are bigger bore with more torque and horses, but I wouldn't call them better. Bigger is not always better for everyone and all cases. I own a 1948-216, 1962-235 and 1962-261. None of them is 'better' than the other - I like them all the same. They are all great, dependable, easy to work on and nothing but fun. The easiest and cheapest upgrade for those engines is dual intake and exhaust. Gives about 15% increase in torque and hp. All other significant upgrades mean pulling the motor, getting inside and $$$.
80's s10 t-5 5 speed trannys bolt right up to a 235's bellhousing, you'll need a 26 spline 11" clutch disc with the 235's original pressure plate
The last year for 235 was '62 in cars, and '63 in some trucks. The 230 debuted in '63, and was stroked to 250 in '66.
S10 T5's are 14 spline. Only T5's from a V8 Camaro are 26 spline. S10 versions need to have the input shaft and input collar shortened, and the bolt holes drilled out to 1/2". Location of tranny mount and length of drivshaft might need to change also, depending on application.
There are several ways to tell a 235 from the later engines, but the fastest way would be to look at the location of the distributor. The older sixes have the dizzy located at the center of the block, and the later sixes have it located toward the front of the block.
check out inliners.org for checking differences. A 292 is a much more powerful motor, but it is also bigger and slightly harder to fit into where a 216/235 was... and it kinda looks newer. Kinda.
What are you putting this into? The Camaro has the shifter at the end of the tailshaft, The S10 is in the middle. Shifter location is the main reason people use the S10 versions. To put behind a 235 you need a 55-62 car or 48-62 truck bellhousing. Which one to use depends on your application, as there are differences within those years for fork and mounts. You need a 26 spline clutch disc. You'll probably want to run an 11" pressure plate, which usually means finding a flywheel from a 3/4 ton or larger truck. I don't know of a 9 1/8" application for a 26 spline disc., but there might be one.
your right about the 14 spline i was confusing them but i don't think there needs to be any mods to the tranny it self as long as you get the correct one. you're suppost to use a 85 astro van 11" clutch disc which is 14 spline. the pressure plate, bellhousing and fork don't have to be changed here some links http://www.inliners.org/Jack/t5_page.html http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/t5tranny.htm
Yea, i am getting a motor out of a 55 wagon that is rebuilt and has a power glide with it. It is supose to be 12 volt stuff and the guy told me 500.00 takes it all. I know him and he pulled it out to put in a v8. I have researched the web and downloaded id numbers for the sixs and think he said it was a 250. Now i am going to research to see if the drive shaft will work or i need to replace the rear end. I also seen where on this forum the motor mounts for the motor will work if i drill out some new ones. Not trying to make anyone mad i feel like i am walking on eggshells here. From now on i will look first and ask last. Thanks for the info this is a great sight.
Have you done any swaps with this stuff? S10's have a 7" long input shaft. Standard Chevy input shaft is 6 1/2". Look, I've physically done all of this myself allready.... If you want an 11" clutch with 14 splines, then you go with the Astro van. If you want 11" (10 3/4" actually) and 26 splines, you go with th Camaro clutch.
I'm sorry if you feel like your on "eggshells", there's nothing wrong with asking questions. I'm just trying to straighten out some of the bad info around here... If the engine you are talking about is the original '55 engine, then it's a 235. Again, if you are only interested in going to 12 volts, changing the engine,starter, etc... isn't necessary. If you do decide to put the '55 engine in your '48, just reuse everything behind the engine, and drill some holes in the front motor plate to replicate what is on the stock '48 engine. Please do yourself a favor and dont try to swap the motor plates. It requires tearing half the engine apart, and buying a new gasket set. Total waste of time and money. This all assumes that you are wanting to keep the original torque tube rearend. If you are going to switch to an open driveline, then I would use a bellhousing from a 48-59 truck, and a 55-62 flywheel (12 volts), and you can reuse the '55 starter. Don' forget to install a pilot bushing in the crankshaft. What to do about the tranny, driveshaft and rearend can vary, as there are several ways to do this.
I dont know i thought he said 250. Does the name blue flame mean anything. He said the valve cover has it on it
I think 6inarow is refering to stang97's engine. They stopped using splash oilers in '53. Just check the casting numbers over at Inliners... All the sixes were called a blue flame in that era. I believe it started with the '53 powerglide engine, and then all 54-62, but I would have to look it up again to be sure.
I think only the 216s were called "Blue Flame" but they repop the stickers, so any motor could have it. Run the numbers and find out what it really is. Probably a 235. $500 seems steep for a 235, but I've ads for them on here and OLS go way up in price lately. Most street rodders will just give them, t hen again, street rodders think everything they touch is gold.
No, the 235s got the Blue Flame designation as well. I remember the all original '55 Chevy I bought years ago that still had the remnants of a "Blue Flame 136" decal on the valve cover.
Kid, I suggest you go re-read the stovebolt link you posted. The second paragraph under "before you install it". What does it say...
Ok sorry to bring this back up but i would like to say thank you for the help i recieved. What i got for my fleetline. 235 out of 55 chevy #3836233 with power glide. It is rebuilt and has the 12 volt stuff on it for my conversion. What i learned.(please correct me if i am wrong) I learned to research the post and found out i could use a 4x4 s10 rear end in place of the orgnial. That the 235 will go back into place as long as i drill out some new holes for the motor mount. Insted of the the splash oiling 216 i now have a full pressure oiling 235. I resarched the post on this sight and found just about everythinig i needed. I also learned to take my time and to study a little and the answers to my questions are rite in front of me. I would like to ask on question please. Will the stock 3 speed bolt to my 235 or should i replace my 216 3 speed with the 235 and powerglide. I know replaceing the 216 with the 235 setup i will have to get a drive shaft and rear end and shifter. but how bad is it to mount the powerglide transmission in place of the 3 speed. I am not asking for the answer just stear me in the direction i need to be. The inliners have not got me a password yet. Anyways with that said. THANK YOU for the help. I know there are alot of post yet to be discovered.
I believe the 3 speed will bolt to the powerglide block, but you MIGHT need to switch bellhousings, too
To use your stock 3spd, you need to reuse your stock bellhousing also. Personnally, I wouldn't use the powerglide, It will sap the power and gas milage of that 235. Since the '55 was an automatic, remember to add a pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. You can also reuse your flywheel and starter. The 6V and 12V setups have a different number of teeth, so if you do decide to use the starter from the '55, you will need to find a 55-62 (12V) flywheel. If you are going to stay with the original tranny, then converting to an open driveline isn't necessary. If you are going to an open driveline and use a stick, then you need to find a 55-62 car or 48-59 truck bellhousing. Common rearend choices are 55-64 car, 4X4 S10, 70's Camaro or Nova. Using the bellhousings I mentioned, you will have the "typical" chevy tranny bolt pattern, so most 3 & 4 spds will bolt up, and the T5 will work with some slight changes. If you do decide to use that powerglide, then you will want to switch to an open driveline. Unless you can convert the tranny to an enclosed style by switching the tailhousing with one from a 50-54. I do not know if this is possible of not. Again, I wouldn't recommend doing it anyway. If you do decide to stay with the enclosed driveline, I would suggest finding a rearend assembly from a 50-54 car that was a powerglide, as these would have a 3:55 gear instead of 4:11.
Powerglides on a 235 suck. You can use a 6v starter in a 12v car. It will crank pretty fast, so you don't want to keep cranking it if it doesn't fire and you want to give it adequate time to cool down before attempting again if you're having trouble. You can also use the 6v solenoid, but it will eventually fail, so get a 55 12v solenoid. It will fit, but you'll need to modify the copper strip that connects the solenoid to the starter... or just make a heavy gauge wire connection
Gosh it is getting harder to not put that v8 in, but with all hard work comes excellent finished work lol. I will get to work and i thank everyone who has helped with tis information. I will get some pics up when i get it put back together, If ever around soddy daisy lets us know dinner on the grill is on me. I think i am going to try the 3 speed deal and shoot for the best. I am going to let this post die because i have all the info i want for free. THANKS AGAIN YOU ROCK thecrustyrat
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