What do i do about the pcv with no hole valve cover????

Alright i have a question about valve covers that have no filler holes. I am going to run a manifold with the filler tube on top (from a 327) and i was wondering what about the pcv???? do you run one or not??

 

didn't they have them with a PVC hooked to the filler tube at one time or another???

 

I have no idea i am only 16 and my time doesn't go back that far. I wish it did because that was when cars were made with metal not this renoylds rap metal **** they use now-a-days. But i don't know. My question needs to be answered because I am getting my motor rebuilt in 2 weeks and am going to run a intake manifold like that but my valve covers have no holes so i don't know what to do about the pcv...

 

you can drill the intake manifold for a PCV valve ..there should be a spot you can do it in front of the distributor. make sure you do not drill into an intake runner. also ,make sure you install a baffle on the underside of the intake

if you have an early block that has the provision for a road draft tube you can also mount the PCV in that hole with a grommet

 

I will have pictures of my manifold and engine some time this week because i need to pull them out of my grandpas storage room. The pictures should help with what you are trying to explain 36-3window

 

There are some small PCV valves with pipe threaded ends that could be place between the distributor and the carb in a hole thru the intake manifold. I'm going to try it on my tri-power SBC. I'm also going to have a valley pan in the lifter valley.

 

Why are you going to run a valley cover with the manifold

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31741&highlight=crankcase

 

this is how i do it on all early engines.

 

There are alot of really good posts here about what to do and what not to do. I have read them all as I am going through the same thing. Try the "search" and use Crankcase or Ventilation

 

mistoo...... i don't get it... I just want a simpler explenation of what i have to do... That sounded like it was for a flathead i am going to run a small block chevy 350

 

Read ALL THREE PAGES

 

more explenation please 40oz. and 36-3window

 

aliright i will... But alot of that doesn't make any sense to me... Keep in mind i am only 16.. Love cl***ic cars and am doing my first build

 

Crazy theory of mine, keep the oil from splashing on the bottom if the intake, possibly slightly cooler air going into the engine.
I can't say if it will make a difference, just want to try it.

 

DUDE, you don't need a pcv valve unless the emissions police say you do for your year, make, and model car. Your vented cap for the oil filler on your intake will be enough, just make sure its a vented cap. A positive crankcase ventilation valve just takes all the crankcase pressured air and routes it back into the intake manifold to be burned with the fresh air and fuel. Older cars without pcv valves or any emissions equipment (pre 60's) just vented the crankcase into the atmosphere, which isn't exactly non-polluting.

 

Here's what you do:

Call YearOne, and get their 327 oil fill tube with the SCREW IN port. This one has the screw IN filler cap, versus the screw ON oil cap. Saves your oil fill tube's paint at the mouth, as the screw on cap digs into the outside of the mouth. The screw IN cap has two tabs that fit in the mouth, and seat with a 1/2-turn. Order the reproduction cap, not the cheaper aftermarket one--the cheap one doesn't seal.

Order their PCV hose...it's a long one, pretty generic, has a 90-degree elbow at the very end. You'll cut-to-fit.

Go to Napa or a decent parts store, and order a PCV valve for a CLOSED 1962 Chevrolet 283 PCV system. This will screw in to the base of the carb. Get a br*** 45- or 90-degree adapter fitting, so the valve is angled to the side, rather than sticking straight out the back of the carb.

You'll also need to get a screw-in fitting for the port on the oil fill tube. Any barbed hose fitting with the right threads on the end will do it.

Cut-to-fit the hose to the PCV valve at the base of the carb.

Now, if you're trying to make your newer engine look old like I did, you're running solid valve covers...like maybe a set of Chevrolet script or chrome 327 valve covers on your later 350. That's what I did.

I got a short length of 1/2-inch aluminum fuel line, and drilled a hole in the back of the Edelbrock intake manifold, between the last runner and the distributor. Find someone who can weld aluminum and weld an inch or two of the tube into the manifold. On the bottom of the manifold, you'll need to create some sort of a shield or baffle out of some aluminum sheet metal, to keep oil from splashing up into your port.

Finally, on your air cleaner, drill a hole in the bottom of it, INBOARD of the air filter element, and epoxy or weld a short length of 1/2-inch tubing. Between this ****** in the air cleaner base, and the port in your intake, run a length of rubber hose.

Done.
The PCV valve at the base of the carb draws from the top of the oil fill tube. The "flow" of air comes from the back of the engine, and draws filtered air from the air cleaner base.

A version of this system can be applied to any engine by building it around the fill tube and the screw-in PCV. In essence, I reacreated the 1962 283/327 closed, or "California" system, just adding my own port to the back of the intake, rather than the breather canister Chevrolet put in the back of the block.

-Brad

 

What I don't like about the vented cap is that oil will always weep from it...plus, you have to have another open port somewhere, or it'll blow a lot of oil out the vented cap.

The other thing I don't like about road draft tubes is that they allow a lot of dirt and grime up into the engine. They're supposed to be exit-only, but anyone who has ever had one of an engine knows how grimey they are up top, where it connects to the engine.

-Brad

 

I have an air-gap intake on my sbc and I hate pcv valves (not what they do but rather how they look). I drilled and tapped a hole directly beneath the carburetor and threaded in a pcv valve. Ran the vacuum hose up to a tree right behind the carb. Darn near invisible.

 

Hey Patrick2965,
I use the Milodon valley shields. Another good thing about them is that if you break a rocker arm,pushrod etc. The lifters can't pop out of the block. It doesn't happen that often but, when a lifter pops out it opens up the oil galley and you loose the oil pressure.
On my Edelbrock tri power manifold I used the coil mount boss for a pcv valve fitting.
I can try to get a pic Monday or Tuesday if you would like me to.
Smokey

 

Iwould like to see pics frm yekoms and 41 woodie. Both sound interesting

 

Me 2 i second that Rpmrex

 

If it's a pre-'68 block, you can use the road draft tube for the PCV valve, that would be easy and out of sight, but make sure you have the baffle can inside the lifter valley or it will **** oil bad. The regular breather cap will suffice up front.

Only time I ever had a problem with oil coming out any of the breathers was when the motor was loose and/or run hard.

First Z-28 had the PCV come off the side of the fill tube and a breather hose to one valve cover.

You guys with blow-by on a hot smallblock can run an electric fuel pump and fabricate a tall breather tube from the fuel pump boss, more breathers=less mess.

 

Good advice here, just remember all engines need for the crankcase to breathe. I.E. filtered (clean) air in and vapors out. Maintaining a PVC valve in good working order will aid in the longevity of the motor. A superior system to the old road draft tube (the car had to be moving to pull vapors from the engine) and the SBC is one of the easiest engines to plum one into.

 

Buy new valve covers

 

No rodncustom the thing is that it is the look i am going after

 

I have 54 Lincoln V8 valve covers that im going to slip over the old short chevy covers and I refuse to cut holes in perfect vinage valve chovers. I think cutting into the intake manifold might be the best way. I have never seen it done and would love to see pictures. Adding a vent to a fuel pump blockoff sounds like a gret idea however I am going to be running a stock pump so there has to be a better way. Some one send pictures please.

 

If you have a road draft tube at the rear of the engine, check out the second set up on this website....this is the way im doing it. Vented cap on the filler tube (Make sure the cap has a filter) and a pvc at the back of the manifold.

http://www.squarebirds.org/pcv_conversion.htm

 

Damn... I think I many just have to clean up my covers after reading this!

 

Here are some pics. I hope this helps ya.
The PCV valve is for a mid 60's small block Chevy with a Rochester 2 barrel carb.(1/4" pipe thread and 1/2"hose)
Edelbrock C367 B trip manifold with fitting in boss.
Bottom of boss with hole in it.
Baffle plate. When screws are tightened I'll tack them with welder.
Hose or hard line from fitting to PCV valve.
Milodon valley tray. 2 Spring steel straps get "flexed" under heads and push down on tray. (one is installed other just there for pic)
Pushrods go through the tray. If anything in the vale train breaks the tray keeps the lifter from poppin' out of the lifter bore.
Smokey