Do you guys think the swedged sleeves they sell would hold up in a rear 4-bar setup? 3/4 " size. They don't recommend using the threaded bungs in this application. Going to do a triangulated setup on my frankland champ rear. Can't make my own bars that cheap!
If they are the same size and wall thickness as production cars tie rods etc. I don't know why they wouldn't work.
Page 43 of the Street rod master catalog #256, can't do a link thing yet, I'm a machinist not a computer geek, college daughter not home to talk me through it!
If I read this correctly you want to use a 1" OD rod swaged down to accept 3/4" ends. This is .095 wall tubing, the next bigger size is for tanks. Why would you think it wouldn't work, you could probably get away with the 7/8" OD that takes the 5/8" ends. Its nice , its neat and its a lot less work than welding up a bunch of insert ends. Not knowing your intentions the 1/2" might be just a little to light.
They are routinley used on high h/p LM and mods in oval track racing and they torture the hell out of them.
Thanks for the quick response guys, noticed they were listed under front susp. components. If you take .095 wall tubing and run a 3/4-16 tap in it I don't know what's left after adding root dia. to depth of thread,etc. Have to look it up in the machinists handbook tom. at work. ****, I'm honored to have you answer my question,I respect your knowledge.
Rather than just taping a piece of tubing, the trick is that this material is swaged to reduce the diameter at the ends and increase the internal amount of metal allowing it to be tapped sufficiently. Makes a liteweight rod with good threads.
Ok, this might be totally stupid and just a wicked cheap *** thing to put out there, but I was wasting time at the local Atwoods, a general store simlar to Orscheln or Tractor Supply, and found these links used on tractors. I didn't have the calipers handy but I would guess the tubing thickness has got to be more than .188. The end links are very healthy and I included in the price of the linkage. You think that something like this could be used for a 4 linked setup? You can't beat the price and if it can handle the stress and strain of a 3 link setup for a tractor, I would think it could handle them for a rearend. http://www.orschelnfarmhome.com/portals/0/Flyers/hydraulics.pdf
I used the speedway stuff to make my four link. I have some good hard miles on it with a small block. Big block will torture them next I'll let you know how it works out .
Why not use the Threaded Weld Bungs listed on the same page of the newest Speedway catalog? They come with RH and LH threads in 5/8", 11/16" and 3/4". Chrome, stainless and plain steel jam nuts on the same page. 1" OD DOM tubing with .156 wall is .006 larger ID than 11/16", but it should tap just fine. Along those same lines, if you have 1" OD by .120 wall DOM you can tap it for a 3/4-16 Helicoil. You shouldn't have to buy a complete Helicoil kit, I've seen individual sizes available in the blister pack stores as well as one or two of the inserts in a single package.
I've used those as trailing arms in three and four link rears on my oval track modifieds for years. I've never bent one without running into something. They handle 650 hp, sideways on the race track, I don't see why they wouldn't work fine on the street as well.
Nothing wrong with a weld bung IMO, the key is to notch the end of the tube like it was going to fit against another tube, Adds a lot of weld surface....Been using weld bungs in offroad cars, they see way more strees than any street driven car...
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