In the process of cleaning up some F-100 hubs for my '40 Ford, I discovered that the inner race on one side was loose. The hub doesn't look boogered and the bearing and race look just fine, but a loose race just isn't right. What are my options? Glue a new race in? With what? Can I get an oversized race? Can't imagine that it's shim-able. Apply a torch and hammer in some magical way to return the hub to its original size? WWGD (What would Grandpa do?) Didn't get much on a search...hopefully someone will chime in with the right solution. Chris
really kinda depends on how "loose" the race is? I've used loctite 290 lots of times for things that "should" be a press fit but have lost their tollerance, although, if you're trying to take up several thousandths of an inch you are probably going to have to find another hub, or have the hub machined and sleeved.
I've taken a punch (with a pointy end) and hammer, and hit it around where the race sits. With every divot you make, a shoulder of metal rises up out of the divot. All these will take up the clearance and the race will fit tight again. Make any sense?
You could take a punch and punch it in several places creating some high spots...then drive your race over them. I've also seen a arch welder used to just touch the hub creating the same affect as above.
know anyone with a lathe and a knurling bar? it's the high tech version of the punch and hammer approach.
I have used the punch/hammer and red loctite approach together. Rebuild transfer cases and blowers with worn components in this fashion with out problems.
Wow, this is a neat idea. I never would have thought about this. You really can do anything with machining.
that must be a common problem with f-100 hubs , i have seen it several times on hubs i was going to use. i have thought about repairing them with the punch and loctite ..in fact i i did on my `36..but kept having thoughts of being stranded on the side of the road 200 miles from home .maybe i'm just paranoid i got a replacement hub from F100parts last year , he guaranteed it to be good.if you do , f-100 and f-1 hubs are different..make sure you get the correct one. like i said , maybe i'm paranoid knurling sounds like a better idea than using a punch. or, the hubs appear to be cast steel..i wonder if it could be welded up and machined?
The race and hub have an interference fit. There's a formula to figure how much, but a lot of guys use .001 per inch of diameter. IE: Specs call for a three inch ID hub. The hub measures 2.997. The race should measure 3.000 on the OD. If I'm remembering right, the actual interference fit according to the charts should be around .0025, but .003 works ok. Take a micrometer or caliper to several races as well as the hub. You may be running into tolerance stack and a different race could do it. Nothing wrong with using a punch to bring up some metal. It's an old oil field fix and some stuff my dad did was done several decades back and still going strong. He did a few 2 ton or so truck diffs with the punch bit and they didn't have a problem. Combine it with some red LocTite if you wish, that's what it's designed for. Red LocTite will release with heat, perhaps 400 degrees F, but read the data sheet to be sure. Important part is you can separate the parts and it's not forever as some think. Important part is to drive the race into the hub straight and not off-square. Use an inspection mirror to make sure the race is all the way into the hub and seated properly on the ledge.
One of the coolest on the road emergency fixes I ever read about was on a Model T. The bearing spun and tore up the ID of the hub. A new race also spun inside the torn up hub. You know how the Model T guys are, probably more than a few carried an extra wheel bearing. Anyway, somebody got the bright idea to get a beer can off the side of the road and cut some shims. The shims went between hub and race. Things were nice and tight like they should be so the whole shootin' match was assembled and the car driven another couple hundred miles home. Then there was the time my Grandfather drove His T from Brea-Olinda, California to Yellowstone....
I believe it's called "swedging" when using the punch and hammer trick. I've replaced the clutch bearing on an AC compressor, and the directions told me to create 'swedges' above the race part of the bearing to ensure it stayed in place.
Loctite does make a special compound for retaining bearing races and cylindrical parts in castings. I can't remember the product number, but it's green and works well. Flatman
Heres what I have done in the past..... Get an hose clamp.....remove the screw.....cut to lenght....place in hub.....drive race in !! The serrations will bite into the hub and keep the race from spinning...... It 's worth a shot.
we do the hammer and punch trick on heavy trailer axles. it is at best a temporary fix on these units but then they are hauling 90t on 9 axles total up to 175,000 miles a year.... sometimes things are just too far gone to bring back, very much a case by case thing
Did a little research. The Loctite site pointed me to a 668 and an un-numbered product in their automotive aftermarket line. Here's what McMaster-Carr has to offer. All are green and all are good to 300°F except 620 which is good to 450°F 603™— High strength and contaminant resistant. Fills spaces up to 0.005" dia. 609™— High strength and low viscosity (125 cp). Fills spaces up to 0.005" dia. 620™— High strength, high viscosity (8500 cp), and high temperature. Fills spaces up to 0.015" dia. 638™— Maximum strength. Fills spaces up to 0.015" dia. 648™— High strength. Fills spaces up to 0.006" dia. 680™— High strength and medium viscosity (1250 cp). Fills spaces up to 0.015" dia. NSF/ANSI-61 certified for use with drinking water systems. Any of these look familiar to those of you that recommended it? I cleaned up the loose hub better and found what looks like some green adhesive. I also tried to remove the inner race from the other hub and it's not budging - bet that one's glued in, too.
I have another set of hubs that I'll check out today, but while we're on the subject, where exactly did you get your replacements? www.f100parts.com redirects to Mid-Fifty F-100. I didn't see hubs listed, but (as my wife will attest) finding what's under my nose isn't exactly one of my strong points Were they new or used? BTW - thanks to everyone for the responses so far.
sorry , i should have mentioned f100parts is his hamb name. he is in san diego and sells used parts. after reading other responses , maybe the loctite thing would be just fine..
This brings back memories! http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62172&highlight=Terry We did the punch thing, and J-man and me did the shim thing. Wound up with a new hub.
I've used the "punch thing" a bunch of times. my machinist father always called it a "french knurl" or a "polish knurl" both meant as derogatory statements to the aforementioned countries. the trick is to do LOTs of punches. the more material you can raise the stronger it will be. some form of locktite is a must afterwards. I sometimes wonder what a bit of JB weld would do as well?? the bearings in my 39 tranny are held in that way, and I've done mag case quickchanges the same way. lots more non automotive repairs have been accomplished the same way.
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