Anti-Seize where and when to use it

There IS a small change in torque values between 30W oil, Moly based lube, and anti sieze. I have that info at work. I'll get it on Monday. 10% or 15% like mention on an earlier post sounds about right.
Smokey

 

Go to ARP Fasteners and check their recommended torque values with different lubes.

In fact, read all their tech tips.

Note too that ARPs anti-seize is/may be different from the generally availalbe anti-seize.

I like to use anti-seize on aluminum to aluminum as well as auminum to other material NPT threads.
You have to be careful here because the lessened friction will crack the female aluminum fitting if you torque it like a dry fitting.

Same deal with Teflon tape.

 

I use it any time threads of dissimilar metals are coming into contact like steel and aluminum such as spark plug in aluminum, steel bolts or heater hose niples in aluminum manifolds, Also anywhere a fastener will be subject to high heat like exhaust bolts, nuts, etc...

 

Thanks C9 you said it better than me....Smokey

 

I use it on all the usual suspects,plug threads,lug studs,exhaust bolts/studs,stainless fasteners.
As mentioned before a little bit goes a long way.
My freind Neil says you could paint your whole house with a thimble full.LOL

 

Thanks to C-9 and Yekoms. I will check into ARPs site.We use anti sieze at work every day and this subject about lower torque value has come up, but I didn't know where to check, thanks.

 

Be a bit cautious when using ARP's recommendations, because those recommendations are for ARP bolts! They are designed to work at a higher loading than normal OEM hardware, and ARP is giving you specific instructions to make their bolts work under extreme conditions, so the torque value needs to be just right, and thread lube is important.

From their FAQ:

"8. Is ARP’s torque recommendation the same as the vehicle manufacturer specifications?

Sometimes ARP will recommend using torque specifications that are different than the vehicle manufacturer specifications, but not always."

Here's my policy....

1. I never use stainless hardware.

2. I use anti-seize in the commom places mentioned, such as spark plugs into aluminum heads, and exhaust flange bolts/nuts.

3. I use the factory recommended torque specs, with the factory recommended lubricant, from the manual put out by the guys who built the car in the first place, UNLESS I'm using aftermarket bolts such as ARP rod bolts--then I use the ARP specs.

4. No lube on lug nuts. Might be ok if you are good about checking the torque on them, but it seems that wheels are one place where someone else might end up tightening them....????

 

The comments about torque values and ARPs web site are right on. Heres one nobody mentioned. There is an anti seize used in the food industry for stainless steel plumbing[think dairy farm] that is teflon based and hi temp. Used it for years, works great. You can get it at McMaster-Carr on line. Search anti seize. Not cheap, but it lasts forever. Its white, no mess, wipes right off unlike the silver stuff.

 

Same here, have NEVER had one work loose that was tightened properly to start with. I hate replacing broken wheel studs so now the first thing I do when I buy a new vehicle is pull all the lug nuts and put a little on each stud. It's just like Brylcreem though "a little dab'll do ya' ".

 

In the aerospace business lots of stainless is used. Some liquid propellants (Hydrazine) react with rust so stainless is important. Have seen lots of galled threads due to inadaquate lube. Krytox is the most common lube; comes in a grease and liquid (high dollar stuff). For gee wiz info, Arlen Ness had this tip which I use when possible. In an aluminum (cast iron too) blind threaded hole, use a stud with a nut. Run the stud to near bottom so you use all the threads in the hole. Then when the nut is tightened, you are pulling on all the threads (pulling only - no twisting). I hate that sick feeling of stripping threads!

 

Back when I had the body shop I had this slick sales guy come in trying to get me to buy sandpaper and grinding discs from him. I've never thought too highly of a salesman that comes into a body shop wearing a suit, so I politely told him I was not interested in switching brands- Have a nice day- (code for F off).

Well slick insisted on leaving some sample DA discs so I could try them. I gave em a try after he left. They must've used Elmer's glue to stick the abrasive on the paper cause they lasted about as long as it takes to stick a disc on the sander. Guy kept coming back several times bugging me and each time I told him the paper sucked. Not interested. He'd leave a different sample.

Following week I was putting something together and had some never seize on the bench when I looked up and saw him heading in the driveway. I grabbed the bottle and wiped some on the inside doorknob. In he comes in his nice clean suit. I tell him again how the grinding discs don't last and he finally leaves. I look out when he gets into his car and see him wiping, wiping, wiping...

Never saw him again.

 

Before you state that I am wrong .Try a bolt stretch test with 1. a dry nut and bolt 2. a oiled nut and bolt 3 . Anti siezes on a nut and bolt as I did for a engine building class I took from Dema Elgin.

 

I use it between the leaves of my springs after I clean them up!