Anyone on here used one? Seems like a good solution for an home job that is getting sent out for final paint. Boydwork, roll, sand, repeat. I've seen the $50 paint job corvair, but I was planning on sending my car out for final paint to a shop. But pulling as much of the body work myself to save $ and because I honestly enjoy it. Just wondering if anyone has used one, how it was to work with, what brand and how you feel about the results. TIA
Ive always wondered about that. I really like spraying but it stinks and the houses are VERY close together. Not to mention I have an attached garage and would not dig killing our dogs and cats.
My uncle uses it at his shop for small stuff. He said it has almost no waste, less clean up and you can roll it on in fewer coats than spray on. End result is less money spent. I'll probably use it in my current project when I get to that point.
No experience, but the word around the industry is that's where things are headed, for obvious reasons. I see it as a solution on flat exterior panels, but how in the hell would we roll primer on an irregular surface, say a door jamb or frame?
First I have heard of it, sounds interesting. Found a small tutourial here---- http://www.autobodystore.com/dent_and_roll.shtml
I agree there. But if you cut in the seams with a gun maybe and then rolled the larger surfaces where you're sanding and want a nice level surface....
i thought i seen a thread around here someone was gonna roll a car , i think most of us have seen the corvair paint job but i never seen where someone else actually painted a car that way ,, im kinda interested in this method as well ..
from what I can find PPG makes a specific roll-on. I can't seem to find it online, might have to go over the the paint store.
We roll on our house paint don't we... The only reasons for not rolling on a primer are air and solvent entrapment.... If the mixture is thin enough to "flow" and during mixing air has not been introduced into the mix then then you have solved the air entrapment issue... If the primer is a lacquer or acrylic resin then you can have a solvent entrapment problem if the coat is too thick and/or temperatures are high enough to dry/cure the surface before the solvent in the film has had a chance to evaporate. If you are using a 2K Urethane you can have a solvent entrapment problem if there is high humidity and the surface cures before solvent evaporation. If you're using a polyester system you will most likely not have a problem with solvent entrapment as most of the polyester systems use acetone as a solvent and it will flash off before the material cures... Just make sure that the surface tempurature does not go below 50 degress or it may never cure. Al
Hey Guys, found this in one of the other threads hope it helps. I roll my frames with a foam brush, once you get the hang of it is real easy and doesnt really need all that much sanding if your careful. http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx
I have used PPG K-36 and K-38 as a roll on with good results and no problems, only on small repair areas not a complete car.
This is not the the intended use of the roll on primer. It was only ever ment for small repair areas. It works quite well when done correctly. I have some excellent information at school, I teach collison repair and we had a snow day, I will dig it up and post it. Most any primer/surfacer can be rolled on. Solvent entrapment is not a problem when the correct procedure is followed. I may even have a short video demo that I can post if I still have it.
that would be great. but its not intended to be used fore prepping an entire car? whats the disadvantage there? or why is it preferred for small areas only?
Some old cars, before the use of spray equipment were brush painted. I have seen old cars that have original paint that is worn thru to the primer with visible brush marks.
friend found a WW2 era jeep a few years back in remarkably good condition. very little if any rust. he attributed it to the fact that the farmer that owned it must have painted it with what could only have been a broom every 5 years or so....
Sounds great to me. Seems like coverage would be very good and maybe better in some cases than a spray on. Brushing paint onto wood seems to be way better than spraying it. Seems too that a brush would be the answer for most of a frame. Fwiw, a lot of boats are painted with enamel using a brush. There are some interesting techniques and many of the boats end up with a paint job that looks like a plastic coating with good gloss, smoothness etc. One of their techniques is to utilize 3-4 painters, start at the top under the deck edge for example and have each guy follow at the next level. The paint blends really well because the first layers have not set up that solid and the succeeding layers flow into the first ones with a great degree of smoothness. Another one boat owners do on their wood trim is to use a 'chilled' varnish. The varnish can, usually small is set in a bowl of ice and applied cold. The lower temperature varnish flows nicely and gives a very smooth finish. Advantageous because most times boats and their brightwork (wood) are painted in the sun and anything you can do to slow the drying down helps.
here is the tech info from PPG for their roll on primer. It actually works quite well. https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=10928ba4-2005-4508-a23d-498319662d33
I have the sample kit, just haven't had a chance to try it yet. Seems to me it would be good for small areas, parts, etc.
Been doing my 55 Chevy wagon interior with a product called Rust Destroyer from a company called Advanced Protective Products. http://www.rust007.com/destroyerhome.htm. Cool thing about it, one, it's a rust convertor (like Ospho), and two it inherently becomes a primer that's compatable with almost everything that you would use top coat with. Cool huh! Granted the areas I'm doing will not be top coated since they will be covered with upholstery and headliner, and out of the sun. This stuff rocks! Definately use foam rollers, not fuzzy. The fuzzy ones give a ruffer texture. I do agree with others on this thread about tight spots. Rollers, even the small ones can't get into tight spaces. The edges that meet on a 90 degree (or more) seam are tricky. After you roll down a nice coat on one surface, you'll slightly muck that up when rolling out the adjacent surface with the rollers edge or foam itself. Some roller handles have a little plastic, or metal protrusion sticking out. You gotta be super carefull. Keep several widths of rollers handy. Also keep some different size brushes, hair and foam, available to get into those tight spaces when your moving along. Map out where your going and have an plan of attack before you get there. Any paint will start to set-up (get thicker and sticky'r) as your work progresses. Depending on your abilities, good brush work can be had. A cool trick is to go over the brush lines with the roller to even it out. Be carefull not to load up the foam too much, or paint will ooze out the ends and cause a streak, which can smoothed out while still wet. You'll get the hang of it. Oh ya, check out my work at http://www.flickr.com/photos/11727936@N02/sets/. And drop me a PM if you need some ***itance. Good luck, Loppy
Been doing my 55 Chevy wagon interior with a product called Rust Destroyer from a company called Advanced Protective Products. http://www.rust007.com/destroyerhome.htm. Cool thing about it, one, it's a rust convertor (like Ospho), and two it inherently becomes a primer that's compatable with almost everything that you would use top coat with. Cool huh! Granted the areas I'm doing will not be top coated since they will be covered with upholstery and headliner, and out of the sun. This stuff rocks! Definately use foam rollers, not fuzzy. The fuzzy ones give a ruffer texture. I do agree with others on this thread about tight spots. Rollers, even the small ones can't get into tight spaces. The edges that meet on a 90 degree (or more) seam are tricky. After you roll down a nice coat on one surface, you'll slightly muck that up when rolling out the adjacent surface with the rollers edge or foam itself. Some roller handles have a little plastic, or metal protrusion sticking out. You gotta be super carefull. Keep several widths of rollers handy. Also keep some different size brushes, hair and foam, available to get into those tight spaces when your moving along. Map out where your going and have an plan of attack before you get there. Any paint will start to set-up (get thicker and sticky'r) as your work progresses. Depending on your abilities, good brush work can be had. A cool trick is to go over the brush lines with the roller to even it out. Be carefull not to load up the foam too much, or paint will ooze out the ends and cause a streak, which can smoothed out while still wet. You'll get the hang of it. Oh ya, check out my work at http://www.flickr.com/photos/11727936@N02/sets/. And drop me a PM if you need some ***itance. Good luck, Loppy
I just used a similar product as Loppy called Rust Doctor (few dollars more per gallon). Seems to work good but it's not recommended on clean shiney metal. I've also rolled on zinc chromate primer (Ellis brand) with good results.
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