Looking for ideas on how to set up the rear cross member and spring on a Model A frame without a Z in the frame. You would lower the front of the frame with a 4 inch drop axle with a reverse eye spring which would give you 5 inch.How would you lower the back 5 inch without Z ing the frame?? Looking for different ways it can be done. fitzee
-De-arch rear spring -Remove leaves -Reverse spring eyes -Maybe make some kind of special spring mounts on a rear axle that bring the spring eyes to the level of the axle or even below the axle Note - If you want to lower the rear of the frame upwards of 5" without z-ing the frame, then the rear of the frame will be nearly sitting on the rear axle. Not good. Deluxe
I`m just trying to get a idea on what problems I will come across.If I have to do a Z then I will. I thought that with doing all the stuff Duluxe said that there would be room for the axle to travel. Anybody know how many inchs are between a axle and frame on a stock Model A??
A lot. Look up a thread by brianangus-how to build an early hotrod frame or chassis. I think there is a lot good info in there.
I'm no expert. I've owned a stock model A and I began building an A-based hot rod at one time. If you are going to lower the front end approximately 5", and if you are going to run bigger tires on the back than in the front, and if you want to have a level car (front to rear) or one with a little rake, and if you want to have enough available suspension travel in the rear, then you are going to have to either rasie the frame rails in the area of the rear axle or lower the axle. Lowering the axle is out of the question. I believe that you are going to have to Z the frame. It is quite simple, and fun. Maybe you could consider running some really small wheels and tires in the back (maybe 13"), and not worry about rear end frame or suspension mods, to compensate for lowering of the front suspension. One funny thought. Or maybe channel the rear of the body and not the front in order to avoid Z'ing the frame. Leave the frame up high in the back and channel the body. Another funny thought. GET TO WORK!! Deluxe
Just a heads up that a 4 inch drop axle won't necessarily drop the front end 4 inches. Usually that is a 4 inches including the 'drop' that's designed in the original ford piece. I think that a 4 inch drop model A axle only drops the car about 2 and a half inches. I'm sure this varies depending on manufacturer or whoever will drop your original axle if that's the road you're taking. Best to talk to them or have the part in your hand but this should make it easier to get the rear end down the same. I would guess that having your back main leaf re-worked (de-arch and flip the eyes) should get you pretty close.
A lot of guys used a front '40 ford front spring on the rear of an "A". They also mounted the spring behind the axle instead of over the axle like originally. Reverse the spring eyes and all this should drop the rear at least a couple of inches.
How to build an early hot rod frame. Do a search for this thread by Brianangus and you won't be disappointed!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434&showall=1 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232304
On a Model A a 4" drop front axle will provide 4" of drop. When you get into the mid-to-late thirties and into the forties, the Ford front axles already had various amounts of drop (depending on the year and model) in them from the factory. So when you buy a 4" drop axle for a '37 Ford (for example) you maybe only obtain 2 or 3 inches of drop. The factory A axles have no drop at the ends, so you'll get 4" of drop out of a 4" drop axle. Deluxe
Use a 26-27 Model T rear spring ........take 2-3 leaf's out........reverse the eyes, and it will drop you aprox, 3-3 1/2 inches.
That's exactly my setup. You won't get an ultra super low drop, but you'll definitely achieve a nice proprtional drop and rake. One other idea is to do a mini Z as outline in the Mike Bishop AV8 book. That is to cut the frame right before the crossmember and line up the top part of the frame rail with the bottom part of the frame rail from the crossmember, then weld and reinforce. you'd gain a couple inches there for sure. Unfortunately, I'm out of town and can't take a pic for you right now.
Good point, you're probably right. I say it's still best to have the new piece in hand before worrying too much about the actual inches you need to drop the back end. Get it on the car and lower the back end until it looks "right". You might decide you like it best with a nice rake. I'm assuming you have a somewhat intact model A that you need to lower a little bit. If you're starting more from scratch then by all means Z the frame and probably replace most of it with square tubing. I second the 40s front spring in the back. I used a 48 but I also have a massive Z (12" I think it was) and a flat cross member. The front is also swept up for another 3" of drop. All depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
Really can't add very much because it has been covered. I have a 4" dropped axle with reverse eyes in the front (actually took out three leafs), Z'd the rear 3" (just put the bottom of the frame on the top like the Tardel Book suggests) and used a reverse eye rear spring minus 3 leafs. The picture of the Coupe in bear metal is with the chassis fully loaded, and the picture in black primer is with the chassis unloaded. Also, I have included a link showing some of the build on the frame; http://groups.msn.com/FordFlathead1932to1953/cobraschopped31av85window.msnw
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