In the process of shaving the fire wall, and mounting the master cylinder under the dash... but to make evreything work I need to loose the power brake booster. I currently have a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder, disk brakes up front and drums in the rear. What master cylinder should I change to to make the new non power brakes a little easier to operate? I'm open to master cylinders out of other vehicles or aftermarket.... suggestions?
2 variables needed to properly select a master cylinder. Front caliper BORE SIZE and rear wheel cylinder BORE SIZE.
What are you working on? That might give someone an idea of what should work. There are some right angle setups that some guys have used and If I remember right there is/was a van setup with with a booster on it that is right angle that there was an article on in the rod rags about 15 or 20 years ago.
well.. after a little bit of research I think I'm going to do something like this instead, and mount the stock booster/ master cylinder where there is more space for it... http://www.chtopping.com/StreetRodder4/ anyone have any leads on a small slave cylinder that would travel 2" and push?? There is tons of them on eBay but I don't know which ones push and which ones pull.
or just get the two criteria I asked for and we can spec the right MC out of the Wagner Brake Bible...................
I'm working on it, going to the shop tomorrow. With the MC that you spec out will it require less pedal pressure than the one I have now?
Power vs. manual have a totally different feel. Witht he right sized MC, you should not have to "work" to stop the car. It wont feel soft/easy like a power ***ist setup but it WILL feel like it is working and modulate well.
The Jalopy Journal
