I have been told that isn't a good idea to use body filler in cold weather because it allows condensation to form between the metal and the filler? Is there any truth to this and if so what can I do to prevent it with an unheated garage in New England. -Joe
Its alot harder to work, get to stick, takes longer to cure out, and dosn't really sand as good. The fiberglass and the harderner are harder to mix too. I don't really know if it would make it condense between the metal and the filler, but you could just aim a space heater or some of them shop lamps at what your working with for a few minutes to heat it up some.
Not a good idea, usually anything under 60*. You'll have problems with shrinking and cracking later on.
I wouldn't suggest messing with the temperature limits recommended by the manufacturer, however....... When I was a teenager in Canada, I had a 54 Ford pickup that I worked on in my parent's back yard. I bodyworked the fenders with snow on the ground. I used a heat lamp to heat the areas where I put filler. Ten years later the body work was just fine. Maybe it was beginners luck, but it shows that it is possible. It also shows that I wasn't the world sharpest teenager!
Hey, A cheap hardware store heat gun, the kind sold to strip paint, should solve this promlem- grind repair area, heat to just about finger tip burning phase, alow to cool wile mixing plastic filler, and bingo the plastic kicks, and no condensation or cure worries. Swankey devils C.C.
I could reason with the condensation if you just bought it or kept it inside and then brought it outside to work with.i think the temperature difference might cause something like that.
Use halogen work lights to heat the area of the repair. They are an infrared heat source and will heat the metal. Leave them on until the filler kicks off, so condensation can't occur. Use the lights for drying the paint as well. On spot repairs they can help by driving the solvents out so the original paint edges won't lift. Alden
thanks for the ideas! I "heat" my garage with a kerosene torpedo heater so I'll try just aiming that at the area I'm working on. This isn't the type of thing to learn by trial and error.
Some years ago, I put the stuff on outside while it was snowing out. I don't recall any problems with it other than using more hardner than usual and some heat. It was one of those it had to be done now jobs to get an inspection sticker. But I would try to use some sort of heat to get and keep that area warm. I applied some recently in my shed, and built a tent over the part (a cowl) with cardboard and bubble pack. I put in a couple of light bulbs and left it over night. It was probably in the low 20's outside, but under there it was probably more like 50. I let it sit there for about 24 hours before sanding, and it worked just fine.
Bad idea. The soot in the heater exhaust will inhibit the filler cure. warming the back side of the panel would be ok.
Re- bad idea: and there will be unburnt fuel droplets settling in the plastic which will later give you fisheyes. I ruined a paintjob once like this Frank
i have the torpedo heater for my garage too and i was thinking its probably not the best idea to aim it at the part of the car you are working on. propane type that screws on top of a cylinder might be better. i have one and if i remember right, there is no flame.
Just be careful not to overheat the area and cause the filler to lift and peel. I'd stick with radiant heat personally and wait a little longer for the area to warm up rather than forcing it.
Been spreadin -Bondo since the 60s, still doin it, used heat lamps, torch ( rose bud ) from a distance ,worked back in the day, still works today.
YUP! And a few other bad things can/will happen, also. Long read--but it might save you some headaches and an expensive redo. Class is in session. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8318&showall=1
"If you put filler on a cold panel in humid conditions you trap a thin film of moisture under the filler. That is ONE of the causes for rust under the filler. This is the easiest to avoid by simply warming the panel to slightly above the air temperature (which should be above 70 degrees F.)" Quoted from OVERSPRAY. There is absolutely no way for me to get my garage even close to 70. It's not more than 20 outside and with the heat on 40-50 is the max I'm going to get.....now what?
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