Its 2008.. January Banger Meeting

Thanks for all your advice guys.
I found the problem!
I am a tight ass!
The 2nd hand alloy timing gear had a heap of back lash to the pont you could rock it back and forth with out turning the crank!
Upon closer inspection, the wear shows that it was only half meshing resulting in a "knocking" or chattering effect.
I am going to add a threaded adjuster to the timing cover to replace the spring? Thoughts?

 

I've got this rattle/knock that has just appeared. One day it wasn't there and now it is.

Its driving me insane!

It seems to be coming from the oil pump/dizzy drive area in the valve chest, But its so hard to trace noises in the engine because the sound travels so much. Its at its worse when the engine is cold and gets quieter as the engine warms to eventually it can't even be heard but its differently still there. Its most noticeable at idle and just off idle. Where I used to have that lovely straight cut whine I now have this knocking!

Its not effecting the running and isn't getting worse, its just there in the background!

I've tried several oil pump drives, new, used, original.

Adjusted the cam anti-walk forward and back.

Checked the lifters several times.

Checked the dizzy driveshaft for wear and movement.

Tightened up the cam gear after the suggestion on here.



I even made this spacer to compress the drive spring to place a little more pressure on the drive itself because I thought it may be riding up because of the increased strain on the drive. This also ran in line with it being worse with a cold engine. Cold engine = cold oil, so more strain on the oil pump and its drive.



Basically none of the above has worked. I've just accepted it now and am now learning to live with it!

 

It does, but not enough to be bothered about.
I didn't realise the difference until I jumped in the coupe and then I could really feel it.

Its certainly not "undriveable" on the road as many claim, far from it infact.

 

What end float clearance do you run on the cam
Also what oil do you run?

 

6-8 thou clearance on the cam and off the shelf 20/50 oil.

 

I usually have no more than .005 end play on cam adjuster. But I have the adjuster drilled to capture transient oil from timing cover. Holes in adjuster body line up with the original hole in the cover. Adjuster material is bearing bronze, actually oil impregnated "oil lite" bar stock. I run a straight 30 wt., usually Valvoline race. But this time I found some Castrol 30 for older engines. The only Zinc I am concerned with is the Zinc in my multi vitamin, supposedly has some thing to do with preventing ED.

 

This is the way I use to make an adjustable cam stop, I made my first one after the cam shifted far enough to cut into my Al. rods, I assumed that it was because of 80 lb. oil pump. I have a cover that some one just drilled and tapped for a 3/8" bolt with a spot of braze on the end. And have heard of making a solid spacer to fit where the existing spring is now. I guess it would be a trial and error fit.

 

I have the alternator back on my Pop so it's driving again. Put it back in on Saturday so I could make a run to the tip. Loaded the back up with my dead spare engine, a gearbox, a couple of clutches, waste paint, starter motors, dynamos, all that old crap that you can't get rid of. Should have weighed it in but I'm losing my garage soon and time is now more important than £20 for scrap metal. It also means I'm probably going to have to sell one of the cars and the Pop is first on the list

 

Give Dema Elgin a call in Santa Rosa. Have him fax over his spec sheet and he will grind a cam that meet your needs. He read the eulogy at Ed's funeral.

His shop number is 707.545.6115

Bruce Crower also does some great regrind work out of his house if you can get hold of him.

 

One step forward and ten back!
I fitted an adjuster for cam end float and a larger diameter cam gear and my problem was solved, until...
....the pick up slid off the jack and dented the oil pan. I hoped it would be okay so when I started the motor, the timing gear noise was replaced with a oil pan baffle hitting the bottom end noise?
BUGGER!
I pull the pan off and as I do, one of the centre main bolts falls out!
Holy shit!
I pull the cap off and the bearing is hammered! Whitemetal is floating round in the pan too!
I feel lucky as if I didnt dent the pan I wouldnt have found this.
Just in the process of pulling the motor out to repair in time for Americarna.

Also, looking for a 22-25 Turtle deck roadster too!

 

How about whoever starts next months thread posts the new title here?

And believe me, ForEverFour, you would have found out about that main without having to dent your pan- they make a dull thud when accelerating above about 30 MPH. No need to mess up a perfectly good pan.

 

I started another thread on this before I remembered this one.
Anybody know about this banger sprinter on E-Gay?
My body is like that and I desparately need to talk to this guy.
Yes, I've done a contact seller.
He's in St. Cloud, MN.

Check it out: Gemsa, full pressure, etc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=320209733624&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

 

Sorry to just hit the end of January,but thought you guys might like this link. www.race-cars.com/carsales/ford/1162515289/1162515289ss.htm I'd trade my project,if they were interested, right now if i could afford the shipping. Sorry i don't know how to resize the pics off another site. I really like this car!