Using split bones in the rear as a 4 link??

Can it be done? I have a set I'd like to use on my 32 framed 29 Sedan.
Here's what I thought up so far..........
Bones cut at rear end, with a bushing welded to the end, mounted near the backing plate.
Further inboard, another pair of links mounted as usual 4-link style.

Will this work? Also, do the links need to be same length as the lower links (bones)?
The point of this is to retain the early look I like, without the binding/breakage known to happen.

Anyone else thought of this? Any pics would help. Thanks!

 

Just to make sure I'm reading it right..

You're saying basically use the body of the bones and weld the appropriate ends to them and that becomes the lower links, right? Then you would use a standard 21-inch (ish) link for the top? Mount with regular old run-o-the mill 4-link brackets on the frame and axle?

Am I reading this right? Should work, only issue you have with a shorter top link is the semi-drastic pinion angle change because of the shorter top link. Even then, probably wouldn't be too bad. You'll still have to use a panhard for sure.

Is that what you were asking??

There was a really good thread on here that had some diagrams of different setups with changing link positions and lengths and how they effected the pinion angle. Very informative.

 

I have seen radius rods used as in stock location and a third used along the torgue tube to assist in taking torque load.

I have also seen the used as lower members of a four bar and then normal bars used in the upper position.

 

In the original application the torque tube took the twisting motion, the spring located the axle side to side. I take it that you are going with an open driveline, and the upper link/links should take the place of the torque tube. If the transverse spring is used (or even longitudinal springs), then no panhard bar is nescessary.

 

This topic has been covered many times, do a search. And yes, many of us have run split bones with upper link,torque arms etc.

 

If I remember right, Nimrod's Roadster is set up with a rear 4 link using wishbones as the links. One of my all time favorite Hotrods.

 

I found 2 pics of his that might help...

 

Scooter, thats right. I'd like to find that thread you refer to, I'll try search again.

I am using an open driveline, don't mind using a panhard bar, and would prefer to use a transverse spring so the '32 tank tucks in closer.
I'm just not able to visualize how the suspension would work (or bind) if the upper bars were drastically shorter than the lowers.

 

I used them.

 

i don't see why not. i've considered it myself. do it and show us what you come up with.

 

That's an awesome 1/4 elliptical setup. I don't think that's what he's referring to, however the way you modified the split bone should be noted. Very well executed!

Here's one of the web links I was thinking of...
http://www.thedirtforum.com/4link.htm

 

that is what I did - worked like a champ - you need a 4 bar link emulator. Make one out of cardboard to scale and use those little brass pins for the joints. That show what your axle will do when the suspension goes ups and down.

 

Here's how I would do it if room allows. Split 'bones on both sides with both ends pivoting and a torque arm down the center, next to the driveshaft.

Works bind-free with any rear end....this shows it using an early Ford banjo.

 

I did something similiar and it seams to work just fine for me. Here are a couple pics.

 

used them on my a coupe.....top bars were longer than usually ...to try and limit the pinion angle changes....works good..... brandon

 

Brandon, thats the look I'm after! With those uppers angled outward like that, you won't need a panhard bar, right?

 

You got it. Triangulated 4-links don't need a panhard. Nice looking setups shown above.

 

I used split bones on my coupe, and they have bowed. Gotta be carfuel with them, i going to pull them off , straighten them out and weld a 1/4 strap full length on the inside to beef them up.

 

There are definetly some nice looking setups in here! Thanks for all the good advice on this one. I'm hoping they'll get started on my frame soon, get all this planned out and just do it once.

 

Did the same setup as DLipp on my wife's coupe. 'Bones on the bottom of axle and another arm on top, both running back to frame. No problems. Flatheaded

 

My 2 bits worth, I just finished doing some bones into lower arms for a 4 link. they are really heavy! I threaded them for tie rod ends and fish mouthed the large ends and welded on some tube rings to hold 60s gm bushings from rear susp control arms. Should work ok but not happy about the weight, remember unsprung weight?
they are going in a 29A sedan with flathead and 5sp, might make some out of tubing for the weight as it will have fenders.......

 

I made all of my links from wish bones. My bottom ones are 1936 rear bones and the uppers are 1929 front bones. I haven't had any problems with mine but then again i have only driven it a couple of thousand miles.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86126