Help Me Plan My Cheap T Project

Hey Guys-

I am brand new to traditional hot rods......and I want to build one......

I was thinking a model T would be a good first car as it's simple and I think could be built on the cheap if I scrounge parts......

I pretty much know I will use a fibergl*** body anybody got a specific recommendation for a cheap builder of new bodies?

I would also like to run a grill and hood.........any recommendations?

Also other parts I should start to stockpile? Engines? Trans? Rearend?

Also I plan on building a frame from 2x3 does anyone have plans or forum write-ups on T frame builds......

Also I need links to write-ups of similar builds and books etc. I need to read to gather some research......

I pretty much know on a very tight budget ultra fancy or ultra traditional goes out the window , but my goal of a cool fast cheap project should be fairly easy to accomplish.........

Just gathering tons of info right now.

Thanks in advance.

 

Forgot to mention I would love it to turn out something like this http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170331

I love the Modified look with tall skinny tires and hugging the ground.

 

What is your idea of cheap?

 

Nothing that is safe will be cheap.Just take your time and make it right.There's a lot of good information here,pick a project and go for it.

 

Sub 3500 is cheap

I wont sacrifice safety for cost........

 

Try this link i found it a while back

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86208&highlight=tbucket+plans

Try and get in touch with LowRollerChevy<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_1037350", true); </SCRIPT> he was making free plans for a tbucket, send him a pm and see how far along he is.

 

somebody here a while back was selling a fibergl*** T project, do a search in the cl***ifieds.

good luck

 

I have a new frame for sale, do a search under my user name. $350.00 SOLD SOLD SOLD

 

You will be much farther ahead if you can find someone who is bailing out of a project. The more stuff you can buy to start right in, the better. Good luck, and keep us posted.-MIKE

 

good advice here.

here's what i've experienced. i've bought bail-outs and done scratch builds.

buying a bail-out can be a great get-ahead starter, just KNOW WHAT YOU"RE BUYING.
there's nothing like the fun of trying to make a small chevy work in a frame set up for a big ford. if you know what i mean.

if the thing isnt already set up close to what you want, you'll spend more time and frustration trying to make it 'right' than you should.

being realistic about your skills is paramount to your success. most people wind up in bail-outs because they thought they had the skill set to get it done and in frustration s**** the deal altogether.

if you can weld, follow layouts, and have a decent level of design ability, you can get it done with a stick welder, some saw horses, a plumb and a tape measure.

the ability to modify 'plans' (i like to call them guidelines) will help you achieve the look you're after.

before getting started, i would price out all the stuff you KNOW you cant make like suspension parts, steering parts, etc. know what the going rate is at speedway, ebay, the hamb cl***ifieds, and random suppliers.

i consider myself a pretty good scrounger when i put my mind to it i think i had about $1500 in my last project when i sold it. it was about 80&#37; complete parts wise.

you CAN build one clean and safe for 3500 if you play it smart.

 

You can do fairly cheap and still be traditional. Just resist the temptation to use disk brakes/radials/electric fans, the three biggest killers of good looking fenderless, hoodless cars. That is an order.

 

As far as building a frame, STUDY this thread, and search Brianangus' other threads, he's pretty sharp for a Canadian dude.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434&showall=1

Also, check out the Tech Archive. You'd need a hundred books to get as much info that is in there.

 

Don't forget the radiator, very important when mocking up for frame building. Front axle/tires, too. Actually, get everything you can before striking an arc. I have a P-ayr plastic replica engine block, made building motor mounts WAY easier, but may not be in the budget. Look them up on the Web.

 

What pieces do you have now if any?

 

None but I am an unusually good parts scavenger........I figured I should research before I started hunting parts......

Thanks for the advice guys.....keep it coming.

 

I would find a good running donor car ..anything old with a non smoking engine would work. You get a rear end,******,driveshaft and engine...fuseblock,steering column (may just use the shaft) maybe a steering box that can be made to work,possibly some guages you can use(you have to be ceative when you're on a tight budget) Maybe even useable tires and wheels! Speedway sells pretty cheap bodies but keep your eyes open and you may find one on Craigslist. Problem is,homeade frame,plastic body...can you ***le it somewhat legally? You may just keep an eye out for a steel body and go from there. And go to any swap meets in your area too,keep an eye on any auctions going on...you may find a useable body there too.
I have built complete runners for under 3500...heck under 1500,but you need some fab skills and you have to be ready to earn some sweat equity!

 

I really want to accomplish a look just like this.....full hood, obviously I would have brakes on the front and I'm not sure about it's underslung suspension I have heard lots of negativ things about it, maybe a typical suicide front suspension for me.......

If I run a speedway grill shell hood and body for a 23 what kind of motor can I stuff in there and keep it completley concealed? I'm not sure a SBC would fit.

 

as far as i know speedway doesnt make a hood for the 23.

they make one for a 27, but it doesnt fit the 23.

their 27 kit with full hood and sides conceals a v6.

 

What if I went the Sprint car or Track T look I would think with a sloping hood Like that you would have to go to 4 cyl power.......any input on that?

 

Forget fibergl***....Rust is REAL!

 

How are you at wiring and electronic controls?

If you are good, you could try and score a RWD car or mini truck with a 4 or 6 in it and use most of that (coming up with a beam or tube front axle wherever you can). Especially since you say you want to run a hood.

Or you could get something older, yet still reasonably plentiful, like the Pinto or MII and use a carb.

IMHO a ride like you describe would be cool with a Model B and a Banjo, if you can find them in usable condition.

 

I am a mechanical designer and I also have some electrical engineering training under my belt so the wiring wouldnt be a problem I would rather run a carb though......just my preference.......

I know a metal body would be cooler but being this is my first build I really need to take into consideration my skill level, and if I throw rust and metal work in there I'm afraid it may wind up as a half finished project for sale here on the HAMB

So the concencus is if I want to run a T hood, grill and radiator I will have to run a 4 or 6 cyl....what about a ford inline 300, to long? I have one of those laying around

 

Does anyone know the size of the tires on that T I posted on the First page, I will probably completley model the car in CAD before I start to try to save some headaches.......and that tire size would be a good starting point.......

By the way I know it's blasphemy but I will probably run radials so I need a tire about the same size as those but in a radial any advice?

 

There you go, hook it up to a C-4 or a T-5 and go to town. Split exhaust, couple carbs, good to go.

 

Oh yeah, a note, if you plan to fab your own frame, then it won't matter how long the engine is, build the frame to suit.

 

I actually have a C4 laying around I never thought about mounting it to the 300

Turns out I have a good start right here in the garage.......

Would the long 300 fit under a stock T hood?

I could stretch the frame but I dont want to screw up the proportions I think the stock T style Modified is one of the coolest cars I have ever seen

What's not to like Tall skinny tires, racing heritage, and cheap to build.......

Also I can get a ford 9" rear from a late 70's ford truck for free from my Father in law, would that work on the T or is it to wide?

Also the more I stare at the T on the first page the more I like suspension setup.......anyone know anything about underslung suspension good or bad? I have heard if a bolt fails the car is riding on the ground with no way to steer but I wouldnt think you would have much steering in the event of a steering component failure anyway.....

Also where could I pick up a drawing of a stock T frame I beleive that is and what about the springs? Anyone have more pics or a link to a car with suspension like this?

Also that car has "cowl" steering can I do a set up like that with aftermarket parts? What other steering, or brake issues would I possibly run into?

 

rootlieb makes a hood for all of the T's, stock, smooth and louvered.

Best of luck- sounds like you're ready to jump in, so send us lots of pics!!!

 

Probably the best advice so far. There is a book that describes how to build a T-bucket with that method. Too bad the affordable T bucket book(can't remember the ***le)isn't affordable, they get $100+ on Amazon for it.

 

I dont know much about underslung suspensions, but I have a little imput... I am working on building a '27 t-bucket... and I built the ch***is myself... it cost me about $140 for the steel... if you can weld, get a set of plans from CCR. if not, look into buying one... most ch***is you can buy are setup for a suicide type front end... it you decide to go underslung, you are going to have to do a lot of fabrication, or find an original T frame that you can use... if you want it cheep I would recomend that you stick with a simple suicide front end... they can be put together cheap, or bought as a package from speedway for about $400... which gets you the axle, hairpins, spring, batwings... you can still get your front end in the weeds with this setup... and its stood the test of time... for the rear end, I think the 9 inch out of that ford would be too wide... but I dont know, might have to do some mesuring... otherwise, some of the 8 3/4" mopar rear ends out of some 70's cars supposidley work quite well... plus the pumpkin is in the center, so it you use a transverse leaf in the rear, it wont look funny... as for the body, a simple '23 from speedway whould be fine, and they are inexpensive... look into a 60's mustang for a radiator, because the dementions are pretty close to the T shell... lets see, what else... as for cowl steering, I dont know what box you could use, but I would think you could adapt a reverced covair box for that... for front brakes, the ford '40-48 all around should give you plenty of stopping power... if you want to free up a little floor space, consider using an a firewall mounted master cylnder, and if you decide to go manual ******, look at an Ansen pedel setup... engines... hmmm... I dont know how long that hood is, but, if you are careful, I think you could get a SBC in there without too much trouble... other wise (and i know I am going to get bashed for this) you might want to look at a 4.3 chevy with a 700r4 behind it... if you wanted to go with a banger, a cheep engine would be a 2.3 ford... or a iron duke... although none of these three engine are exactly "traditional" they are good engines, and can be had for little to nothing... I dont know how long a 300 is, but anything can be made to work, its just a matter of time and sometimes, money... a 300 would be cool though... theres a ton of information here, and a bunch of great guys with a lot of knowlage... your asking the right questions... and dont be afraid to ask a question, thats how we learn!!! take a look at the Tech archives for a bunch of info too!!!

-Jordan

 

I spent a whole bunch of time in the Tech archive, and "search" became my best friend. Most of these are common questions and have been discussed at length on the H.A.M.B., with photos.