Anybody got any paint questions today for a pre 1964 car or truck ? LOL

It's in the mid 40's and it's wet here in South Texas and I can't afford to heat up a 75x175 shop right now so anybody need paint help today ?

 

your bitchin about mid 40's! cmon man, grow a set. just kidding but ill keep you busy. did they used to put clear over laquer?

 

Yep ! Clear lacquer over high metallics all the time . That way when you buffed your clear , you weren't getting into your metallic and splotching your paint job up like a Leopard !

 

It's only 9 here. Concrete floor is cold!!

 

thanks, in my autobody shop class, the teacher went over lacquer briefly but never mentioned anything about clearing. sorry if this sounds stupid but is it just over high metallics?

 

tell us the steps to lay out lace panels

 

Since automotive lacquer is banned in about every state , that's probably why he went over it briefly . Let's make sure we are on the same page here though . If you are talking about spraying Urethane clear over lacquer .....NO ...NO...NO... because the lacquer will reactivate and wrinkle all to hell if you hammer Urethane on top of it . The first coat you may see slight lifting , the 2nd coat ...walk out of the booth and walk back in after about 10 minutes and feast your eyes on your new wrinkle finish paint job . You can shoot clear enamel over "CURED" lacquer , but you cannot shoot Lacquer over Enamel or it will lift as well . As far as metallics only , I try to keep my "film thickness" to a minimum so there is no need to clear over a solid color that you plan on buffing unless you are going to stripe it or do art work over the solid color . I bury all of my stripes , flames , etc , under the clear because I hate to walk up to a car and feel edges left on tape-outs ! If you buff a high metallic color that does not have clear over the top for your "buffer coat" , you will sand into the metallics and splotch the paint job by actually getting into the metallic itself and making it un-even . Hope that answered the question , Jerry

 

OK, since you asked:

I'm working on surface rust removal on a 63 Chevy C-10 using a 3-m stripping wheel on a drill. When I get to bare metal there are edges of pink around the area. This is the original primer right, I hope?

If I want to wait a while before primering over metal, is there a treatment, maybe some kind of oil, that you recommend?

 

NEVER , I repeat , NEVER have oil around any body that you are doing bodywork or stripping on ! Oil and paint and bodywork don't mix ! Just strip what you can and leave as much of the pink that you see on there until you are ready to go the bare metal . Keep oil products as far away from any car that you are doing body work or paint work on for sure as you can run into "fish eye" problems that are hard as hell to resolve . You know what a painters worst nightmare is ? F#%^&G ARMORALL !!!!!! If you are even remotely thinking of having your car painted , forget that wax and Armorall was ever invented until after the car has had it's 90 day cure time !!!!! Bare metal is usually okay if you don't have alot of moisture in your shop until somebody walks up and touches it . Ever notice the rusty finger marks on a nicely stripped car ? Not only does your body produce oils , it produces acids as well !

 

I sanded my car down to bare metal last year and fixed all the rust by welding in patch panels ect. Then I put some epoxy primer over it. ( I think thats what it is, I need to check to be sure, the ppg guy said it was for applying directly over bare metal and would hold up well to sunlight ect.) He said that all I needed to do to paint over it is to scuff it up a bit.

Anyhow, I now want to start doing some bodywork on it. So, is there a good spray bomb primer that I can spray over the areas that I have put bondo on and sanded down smooth? There will be bare metal showing if I start sanding too. I will be driving it like this for quite a while too. I don't want to have to clean and prep a gun every time I need a little spot primed.

Thanks.

 

thanks jerry. and yes you did answer my question

 

I do NOT recommend any type of "spray bomb" primers other than 3M's or Sems "WELD THROUGH" primer when replacing sheetmetal . I won't even let my bodymen use spray bomp paint for guide coats on thier bodywork !

 

This is a damned good thread man, I'll keep it going with another question...What type of paint would you recommend for spraying a 30's hot rod as cheap as possible with as little prep as possible, I got all the patience in the world for fabrication, but when I paint I want it over with FAST...Thanks

 

If you can't afford PPG's top line such as DBC bases , etc , go with thier "Shop-Line" which other than the bases , is still quality for a low budget .

 

Yep, I used the ppg Omni stuff, works good.

 

I gotta go eat guys , I'll be back to answer more this evening . Hope I'm helping you guys out here , Jerry

 

The "OMNI" is now "Shop-Line" and I use it when budgets are real issues for my customer .

 

Guess I was thinking of oil on metal to preserve that look with no intention of painting over.

Thanks.

 

I am also slow, waiting for a customer to come for his car.

CamaroKid, If you haven't done lace paint, I can help with a little advise.

 

say i have it in primer and paint the car with a black base and want to do the top in red with lace panels can you tell me the steps?

 

Rock on with it buddy cause my ride to FOOD just got here ! LOL

 

Lace is cool ...found a Lace co. outlet store next to the plant in Oxford,N.C....browse & find Non-Granny looking designs...they got tons of them....fish, palm trees,boats, hippie looking flowers ...don't get the stuff that looks dorky.

 

I have layed it on some motorcycle stuff but not seriously on a car with bc/cc

 

I would mask off the areas you want for panels, then position the lace, so that you are happy how it fits in the panel. Tape it down so it can't move, making sure it is stretched tight against the surface, so the paint cannot blow under the lace pattern.

Keep you gun pressure as low as possible, so it won't cause the lace to lift or move.

Since you are probably using enamel, mist the contrasting color on in thin coats. If you try to spray it too wet, you will glue the lace to the surface. If it takes more than one coat, just take your time, and let it dry about an hour between coats.

Let the last coat dry before you lift the lace off, so you don't smear the pattern.

Check it over really well. Pickout any fibers that stuck, and do any touchups needed with a toothpick or tiny brush.

Put a coat of interim clear over the lace panel, to keep it from being disturbed.

Mask off the lace panels, and then paint the rest of the car however you like.

When you are ready for final clear on the car, pull off the masking covering the laced panels.

 

what about painting the top red metalic and then laying the lace down painting it another red? candy red? then interim clear?

 

and should i sand after the lace is applied or after the interclear, or not at all

 

Anything is possible, just plan it before you start. I have found that if you just "let it happen", you sometimes find that you don't like the way it is turning out, and it's too late to change it.

As far as the colors, I was going by what you said you wanted to do in your post. Of course you can paint the roof first, then add the lace before you clearcoat it.

On the subject of lacquer. I used it for about 30 years, then for many reasons, I switched to urethanes. If you are just starting out, don't even start with lacquer, as colors are extremely limited, it will not last very well, and you will have to start your paint schooling all over, since you will not be able to buy it anywhere in a few more years.

 

yeah going to use urethane, I would just like to use some metalflake and lace

 

I have a tech request for someone. I often wonder what the procedures that a pro shop uses from start to finish on a paint job. I know what I do, but I would like to see if I am on track.

Let's say, starting with a common car. A car that is bought from an individual that has been painted 20 years ago and is going to need patch panels etc. The paint is flat and no good. You have to strip it down to a nice fresh surface and build up. If you have time, that is.

 

For a lace job to look correct you really need two colors that are not that close in pigment . If you have a bright red metallic base , it will take away from the lace panels that you are trying to create if I'm reading your color combos correctly . The coolest I have done was on an early shovel . I laid a silver base , laid my lace out just as Hotrod suggest also , kept misting black until I had almost a spiderweb effect once I pulled up the lace . I then hit it with 3 different candies going from front to back with the front of the fenders and tanks being a cherry red candy , faded into orange "tangerine" , tipped with burple . Now remember , although my original color started out as silver "orion" , I put enough black so that all the candy you could notice at night was a multi faded net ( web ) design .