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painting steering components....what do you use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lucky Strike, Jan 22, 2008.

  1. Lucky Strike
    Joined: Aug 14, 2004
    Posts: 1,665

    Lucky Strike
    Member

    I've got the steering arms off my truck, I bead blasted them and am fixin' to paint and re-install..with modern tie-rod ends, after I get the old ball studs off.

    My question is what to paint them with. My instinct is to just grab some rustoleum and spray bomb the ****er... But is this the right thing to do? What do you suggest?
     
  2. it all depends on how fancy you want to get...if it's just a driver a spray bomb may be fine.Kylon is my favorite

    if you are going for the Ridler Award you may want to step it up
     
  3. Lucky Strike
    Joined: Aug 14, 2004
    Posts: 1,665

    Lucky Strike
    Member

    I'm just doing a driver, and this is a full fendered 58 chevy 1/2 ton truck. My only concern is toughness and durability.
     
  4. 29Jay
    Joined: Aug 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    29Jay
    Member
    from Ft Worth

    My Ft Worth painter buddy told me to use Hi-Temp paint or appliance paint for toughness. He said the appliance paint was very tough and available in severial colors at a hardware store.
    Jay
     
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    For durability with spry paint, LOW heat tremedously toughens the paint. I balance parts on top of the exhaust pipe from the water heater, on light bulbs, etc. I'm guessing somewhere in the 200's, very low oven if wife is going to be out for a while. The difference in toughness is really dramatic.
     
  6. ramrod2624
    Joined: Dec 19, 2006
    Posts: 652

    ramrod2624
    Member

    How about using por 15? the product is tough and can be easily brushed on and it lays down pretty nice I think.
     
  7. Mustang65
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 19

    Mustang65
    Member

    Not to mention it is hard as a brick when it dries...don't get it on your hand though
     
  8. Gorehound
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 100

    Gorehound
    Member
    from Delaware

    If you use POR-15...make sure the surface is rough. It does not
    stick well to smooth surfaces and may flake off.
     
  9. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I think Krylon 1613 semi-flat black was invented exactly for this purpose.:D Walmart sells it cheap. You can pay a lot more for fancy stuff but why? Is it really necessary for your project?
     
  10. Lucky Strike
    Joined: Aug 14, 2004
    Posts: 1,665

    Lucky Strike
    Member

    Thanks for the tip Bruce. Given it's January I'll have to rig up a low heat bake on these parts. Ordinarilly, I would just set them out front of my shop during the day, which in Houston, will hit the low 200's on asphalt in front of a metal building.
    :)
     
  11. Prep is the biggest key to a paint job that will stick/last. I personally like to wipe metal parts down with acetone an a lint-free rag, then let them dry before painting- outdoors, of course (otherwise, you can kiss those brain cells goodbye).
     
  12. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    when I raced, nothing held up like powder coating. on the dirt track the clay/sand would sandblast the paint away in 2-3 races but I could get two seasons out of a powder coated frame (if I didn't wreck it first)
     
  13. twofosho
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 1,153

    twofosho
    Member

    Rustoleum- Durable, inexpensive, can be put on with a gun or bug bombed, and after a little experience laying it down, it goes on smooth enough to look professionally done. And unlike powder coating it's easily repaired if the need ever arises.
     
  14. CB_Chief
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 775

    CB_Chief
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Use engine paint, mine has been my 58 chevy 1/2 ton truck on since 2003. And we have plenty of weather extremes in OKC.
     

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