My model A has a completely gutted floor and supports from the firewall back. The body is channeled, and I will be building body mounts, braces and floors front to back very soon. Has anyone taken aftermarket floorpans and simply hacked them to fit? For instance, one can purchase 55-57 complete floors with tunnel. I saw a post when I searched using beaded panels, what is there an easier way? What's your thought on modifying a complete floor pan to fit? I'm a good fabricator, but don't have bead rollers, and fancy sheetmetal equipment-just the basics. Thanks in advance
Maybe I'm answering my own question here, I don't know. Here on efay is a complete floor kit for my car for $250. However, I will need a tunnel since the body is channeled over the frame. Anyone use these pans?
http://www.emsautomotive.com/ Check them out...You might be able to get stuff from different models to piece together all the parts you need. Check the 35-40 Ford area for flat floors with beads rolled already. May help ya, may not.
I have used Direct Sheet Metal's floors in my A Coupe, although I did not channel it and because I used a C4 behind the flathead with Flat-O-Matic adapter I didn't need to modify the floors at all. The floors fit very well and you will need to put the body cross rails back as the floors fit into them just like stock.................I don't see why you couldn't fab a tunnel for the full length....................it would sure save a lot of work using already made floors with rolled edges. IMHO
by a bead roller and a sheet of steel and do it yourself, you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself and you get to learn something new! jeff heres a link to one i did http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229815
I think you thunk yourself into a non-existant corner... The car is narrow...the crossmembers will be plentiful...the driveline hump is there to act as a central stiffening rib. You can always lay out some interesting designs into the remaining flat areas, free hand over...say the open jaws of a big vise...or if you want duplication to be reliable from side to side...a wooden hammerform. Beadrollers aren't a necessity...they're a convenience.
I just started the subframe on my '33 truck cab on a Model A frame (channeled 4"). I decided to use a wood/sheet metal hybrid for the floor & center hump. The more wood here, the better. As a general rule, I try to shy away from pre-formed pieces, because I usually end up altering them so much they don't look anything like what came in the mail. I just get flat generic pieces & custom fit it all. I only have rudimentary tools. No bead roller. I just muddle through it.
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input and photos. Time to roll up the sleeves and just git er done!
go on suisidedoors.com buy your self a tunnel and some sheet metal and just do it your self its not that hard to do you can also talk to them guy about some sheets with some beads already rolled in them I sure they can hook you up with what ever you may need
We offer the floor pictured and alot of others, its a Direct Sheetmetal Floor, and thats probably the pic from the one we offer on ebay as well. Free shipping if interested, contact me.
Making your floorpans isn't as difficult as you may think. I used 16 gauge for the flats and 20 guage for the curves all with a diegrinder. The cab is channed 6". Wrap your driveshaft tunnel around your MIG welding gas cylinder to get the curve and make your tranny tunnel in 2 or 3 pieces to get a "cone" affect.
The Jalopy Journal
