"Metal to Metal" = "All Metal"?

Seems, YEARS ago, I used some stuff over patch seams called "All Metal" made by Evercoat.

I find myself about ready for some again so I was looking on the web and I find "Metal to Metal". Anyone know if this is the same stuff?

The good thing about this stuff is it will fill any pin hole in the patch weld that may be missed and it will not wick moisture like good old poly fillers. I used this on the seams, then sanded it way down and skim coated with poly. Like to do that again.

 

All metal ****ed, Metal 2 Metal works well. I have a can next to me.

 

I think it is part #452 for a qt. of it.

 

It works harder than filler of course but the new stuff is less of a h***le.

 

Yeah, I recall all metal being a PITA to sand off but it seemed to do what it was supposed to.

I guess I'll hunt down some metal to metal then.


Anyone use any of the other items on this page?

 

Rashy, I have used most of that stuff. Never had a complaint.

 

Which do you think is best suited for the purpose I mentioned?

 

There is a reason I have a can of Metal to Metal on the shelf..........use sparingly, spread it thin and feather it as well as you can the first time.

 

I had a problem once with all metal getting hairline cracks in it once the car saw some road time, and it was only about 1/8th of an inch thick. Never used it again, but I have used the metal 2 metal without any issues. I rarely use the stuff though, Rage or Rage Extreme is my filler of choice.

 

I plan on topping it with Rage Gold or Extreme but they will wick so I want to be sure to fill whtever pinholes may be there that I cannot see well enough to weld shut.

 

Eastwood sells "Metal to Metal" if you can not find it elsewhere. They are a tad pricy. To my knowledge, "Metal to Metal" is the only filler you can use under powder coat.

 

^^^or JB Weld.

this metal to metal works alright. i didnt really see any advantages of using it over plastic fillers. if your going to use a filler already, not sure why you would use the metal to metal. a problem that can occur is the mixing of the hardener becuase it is clear. make sure to mix it completely. other than that its alright stuff. rage gold works good. dont go for the evercoats light filler, it clogs paper way too easy.

 

The hardener I've always gotten with the "metal" fillers was a red tinted hardener, it was the same thing as the clear stuff your talking about but mixing was easier to get right.

 

metal to metal... hmmm is this stuff binary or just a single part?

 

never mind... question answered

 

They still make ALL METAL or atleast a couple years ago did,I beleive its a usc product though not sure, While were talking abot metal fillers why not bring up ALUMA-LEAD anybody old enough to remeber this Stuff?

 

I've used both plus Dynatron's Metal Fill, and I hate them all equally. But I do have a can of it on the shelf for extra insurance. I don't rely on it, I still try to keep my welds solid throughout a seem, but like I said extra insurance. They all sand like **** and lay out like mol***es.

 

Hey,

Yeah, I used Aluma-Lead, in the early 70s, when it first came out-

'never understood the value in any of there "metal-filled" fillers.
They all use adhesion, rather than cohesion (like solder or braz-
ing) to adhere to the metal. The resin is still the binding agent,
just as it is with a polyester filler. These metal filled fillers all re-
mind me of a product from the 50s called "Black-Knight", I think
it was filled with carbon. It sanded about like Aluma-Lead,too.

Save your money and weld the repair area in correctly, use a
top grade of plastic filler, seal, prime and topcoat the repair &
undercoat the repair from behind the panel.

S****ey Devils C.C.

 

if your only consideration is sealing pinholes, you can also give the weld joint a couple of coats of POR15 from the backside after regular filler, instead of metal filler.

 

All metal is a USC product Metal 2 Metal is the Evercoat product. The Metal Glaze OEM has the highest corrosion resistance of any putty on the market it is designed to withstand a 500 hour salt spray test. Most fillers and putties will last about 200 to 300 hours.

 

my local ppg paint store carries al metal i use a thin coate over my welds for pin holes have no problems so far using it

 

If you just concerned about sealing pinholes and moisture protection, the fibergl*** reinforced fillers will do that as they are waterproof(tiget hair, kitty hair, whatever you want to call it).

 

This is what i have used. i put a layer over my welds and it seems to work real nice.

 

Gas weld it then lead it. End of story. Or etch prime the repair area before filler and seal the backside. Counting on anything to seal the front side is not the best idea if there is pin holes the water and moisture will find em eventually. LTR Dave

 

I have been sanding filler for about 30 years now. We all figured "All Metal" filler was given its name so shops could honestly tell their customers the rust repairs are done with all metal. Its still funny when I think about it. I have used the dura gl*** type fillers in the past where moisture may enter from backside. It will bubble over time but last a bit longer than regular filler because it is more water proof. Even lead will bubble eventually if applied over pinholes and not sealed from the backside.

With the new products available today we can now do a totally chemical repair. Clean metal, etch coatings, epoxy coating, metal adhesives and 2 part top coats. Its very important I think to get the inside clean and sealed. Lifetime repairs can be done with the right sequence of todays modern products. Steve

 

Back in 65, the company I worked for made Alumalead for PPG. I made and packaged tons of it. I still have several cans of the aluminum powder.

 

Perhaps some thought given to eliminating the water so there's none to wick would be time well spent? Thought of using MarGlas? (No wicky) I used that AllMetal on a truck I had- stuff kept growing cracks as time p***ed. I'd be leary of the new stuff as well. -Betruger-

 

Metal bonding adhesive is waterproof.

 

Thanks guys. I'm going to use the fiber reinforced ****. I already planned on sealing everything from the backside as well. Just trying to cover all bases as you never know where water will find it's way to...