i've acquired a number of old model cars on ebay. unfortunately, they are pre***embled, some with excessive glue. any tips on removing glue and breaking the bonds of old glue joints? also, on a semirelated note, anybody got a 33 willys model kit they're willing to sell?
It depends on what was used- if it was superglue, you can use debonder, but remember that the glue basically melts the pieces together. Now if it was the old tube glue, I agree with 61falcon- you might be able to use the freezer method. Post some pics- that would help (I'm a visual learner)
33 Willys model kits should be easy to find on Ebay. Some resin manufacturer even produces the non-chopped version, and another produces the (non-Ohio George Montgomery) correct front clip. If you can't find one, let me know. Dennis
i've found some on ebay but they're all like 10 bucks and then shipping. if i wait till the swapmeets come back in the summer i can probably get it for 10, but im cheep though do tell me more about the correct front clip, i was going to use the body to get out some dimensions for a mold im thinking of making for a life size willys (for a project wayyyyy down the line after my T finally gets done), and for the awesome Mac the yank, heres the pics from the listings on ebay (the models are to be shipped soon to me but i have others that this will apply to):
Be careful if you freeze and snap. If there is a lot of glue DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SNAP! This is where some model tools help. A saw blade that fits into an Exacto knife will be very helpful. As Mac said normal model glue 'welds' the plastic together, think of it as welds on a real car, who just tries to snap parts off?? Cut them.
ah good point. i might try the freeze method out on a 71 charger i have that i got just for a SB mopar motor so i can at least have some experience on it.
If you try cutting, I recommend using a single edge blade- VERY thin and won't wedge into the parts like an XActo blade will, or try using a Gyros brand mini circular saw blade. They make some that are approx. 1' round and are again, very thin. Don't use it in a dremel tool, just pull the blade along the cut line, and it will do the rest. Hope this helps, Bill
Testors thinner ( in the little bottle ) is great for un-gluing. Brush it on the seam, wait a few minutes and you should have no trouble separating the pieces.
I use the Xacto serrated saw blade the same way you use the cut of wheel. I agree that you should avoid motor tools or you will end up with a pile of molten plastic. Never tried the Thinner, though I would test on a small un-important part first! That old Lindberg plastic can be 'finicky' and react oddly to some things.
soak them in a tupperware full of brake fluid. paint and glue come right off then rinse very well with plenty of water. i thought this was crazy at first but it works real well.
I have just soaked them in hot tap water and then dunked them in cold tap water and repeat, most parts just fall of if they aren't heavily glued, this also washes off all of the years of dust.
the cleaner/degreaser "super clean" that used to be made by castrol takes paint and glue off of models after you soak them for five or ten minutes. Don't get it on your skin!
http://wwwboard.modelcarkits.com/ just read the rules, should not take long to make them cry, usually 2 or 3 questions, but you will get your answers to fixing them, no sales or want ads or you will rot in heck
i bought something similar once for a family relation to clean his mag wheels, i remember it saying "be sure to use rubber gloves". actually, according to the Ebay ads, they're all Aurora kits from the 70s. i have another kit i won from the same seller that's a Gowland T sedan as well. thanks everybody for the tips, i'll probably try various ones out on the charger (and some other disposible cars i have). anyone heard the one about oven cleaner? i'd try it but i think it would probably melt the plastic (that and who uses that in this day and age?).
I would be careful about soaking them in any chemical- older plastics have a tendancy to do odd things, like melt. If you have a part that can be "sacrificed", put that in the chemical first to see what happens. Thanks again for the PM!
IF you use the purple pond..AKA Castrol Superclean/Power Purple.. USE GLOVES..i cant stress that enough... unless you want to live with cracked dried skin for 1 month... Yes i had this experience! wasnt cool, and it ****ed touching clothes/blankets, dont get me started on fleece.. !
Brake fluid soak works,but don't use on resin,will melt them.Toremove unwanted chrome plating,soak in bleach,I do this on parts I want an aluminum or real metal finish.
If you are still looking for the corrected '33 Willys nose, stock roof '33 Willys body, and correct chopped '33 Willys coupe body; I'm the guy who makes them. Feel free to visit my web site. Ed www.dragcitycasting.com
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