did u make your own frame?

im starting my very first frame build and was wondering how many people built there own frame i was thinking of goin with 2x3 box tube with a .120 wall. could i go with something lighter?

 

That is what I used on the frame for my tudor. I asked the same question a while ago. I put doubler plates on a lot of the stuff that was gonna have any weight or stress going into the frame. Next time I will use 3/16 wall

 

I did mine out of 2x3 3/16 - heavy, but sturdy.

 

Iusally use 2 x 4 11 ga.

 

what is the frame for?
if its for a tbucket/modified/rpu/early 30's coupe etc, 2x3x.120 is fine.

 

I agree, .120" is fine. Make sure your connections are correct and you use fish plates where required. Do a little research here on past frame builds. There is a lot of great info. Good luck!

 

its for a 29 ford but im gon to stick a mildly built 460 in it,
i got the tex smith book and abunch of info from here any tips on how to start?

 

Yes,2x3x3/16" U.S.A. steel courtesy of 47MERC.

 

I am toying in building my own frame for a occasional good weather rod and was thinking main middle sections in 2x3 but rear kick ups and frt portion in 2x2.

 

I am in the process of building my own frame for my '33 ford pickup. I'm using 2x3x.120 and so far its worked out great.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/1288886183.jpg?1198865090

 

ive got the same **** for my c-dan

 

what **** would that be?

 

I am using 4 x 2 x 3/16" tube for mine

 

I used the 2x3 3/16" wall... I have been told any thinner and you could get some warping as you weld... take a look at mine...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238024

This is for a '31 A...

 

A friend of mine used 2x3 3/16" wall for his dodge bros truck project, big block, big tires, no problem.

 

The weight and torque of a big block will say: build it right! Reinforce in high stress regions.(Use 4 X 2) No welds that undercut in critical areas. The 3/16 material is stiff, heavy, but you won't have any failures if done reasonably well.

 

On my fire truck project, I used 2x3x 3/16 and i was extremely happy with the results, my frame is 16 feet long and after adding alot of the body to the frame it started to sag in the middle. I had an engineer look over my problem and he designed a truss system that I built and installed, which completely eliminated the sag. With that motor combo, the heavier stell is the better choice.

 

This is the EXACT question I was thinking on my way in to work today. I was thinking 2x3x.120 I have built tube ch***is roccrawlers that take a BEATING out of round .120 wall tubing. Never broke a rail.

DIma

 

3/16" thick 4 x 2 is 2# per foot more than 1/8". If you have 25' of tubing, we are talking 50# extra. In the grand picture, 50 # or $50 isnt going to make or break the project.
Just my 2 cents

 

One thing to keep in mind. Your rockcrawler ch***is is built like a truss isn't it? Not just single side rails like he'll be doing here. I think .120 is enough if he were to use 2X4 it's not that much more in weight or money but would certainly add up to a stronger frame

 

Nah, I have never built a trussed frame... Single tube running through most of it. Single sided rails, but reinforced all voer the place. I was actually considering doing this for the ch***is on ym truck. Iknow it is not traditional, but you can't deny the cool factor involved.

DIma

 

I've made several frames - mostly for race cars, but I'm now building a 49 Crosley altered . I generally use 2x3 - .120 for the race cars, which have cages that reinforce the frame. Have had good luck with these - even crash tested !! For the Crosley I used 2x4 - .120 primarily for appearance - looks a little sturdier to me when it is exposed. It will be plenty strong !! For what its worth, Morrison (who makes a few frames !!) recommends 2x3 for a car with a cage and 2x4 without - all .120 thickness.

 

Here's a shot of my first one...
You can use lighter but I used 2 x 4 3/16...

 

i used 2x3x.120 but im running a full cage. i'd go 2x4x.120 if your not.
mat

 

This seems to be sound advice. It would be interesting to look at the stress that develops w/a high load situation. I like the cage addition if using 2 X 3. I had used 4 x 2 x 3/16 in an IRS/IFS model A and always felt it was a bit strong. It never flexed or cracked but I ran street tires and never hooked-up at the track with it.

 

Made a frame for my "Abortion" truck. It has a 429 Ford BB, so i used 2X4-7 ga. (3/16). I fabbed it all and tacked it with a mig welder than had a pro welder (my brother) ARC weld it all; re-enforced at corners and crossmembers. If ya got enough engine you don't have to worry about a couple pounds

 

2x3 .120

 

how about 2x4x .120 with a roll bar?

 

used 2x4 3/16 on my model a sedan........worked out and drives good