hello, I thought i saw a thread about this once but searched with no luck. i have a 1949 F1 and i would like to get rid of my vent window for a 1 piece side gl***. could anyone give me any info on this? thanks mike
Sacramento Vintage Ford http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?LineName=1948-66%20Pickup&Line=1948-66%20Pickup&Category=Windows&StartRow=81&PageNum=5 Page 5 under the windows section for the appropriate year grouping if the link doesn't work. Let me know how the kit works cos I'll need it soon.
I will NOT be paying $340 to do this. I will find a way to do it cheap. I have a 1948 cab, and one guy I found on ebay sells a full set of gl*** (including one pc. side) for less that that. Much less. CHAZ
the problem with that kit is that my truck has a 5 inch chop, maybe someone sells it less gl***? have to research some more. thanks for the direction though. mike
Use the gl*** channel from your vent window, install it in the front of the door. Universal gl*** felt U-channel installed all the way around. Make a pattern, take it to your local gl*** shop. Should get away for under $150 total, retail. My 4 inch chopped . F-1 has had one piece gl*** for over 30 years...................OLDBEET
I think traditional builds need windwings. It's too "street rod" with one piece gl***. My F-1 will have windwings. I know that wasn't the question, but I gots opinions!
Old Beet sounds on the ball there. I just threw the link up because I knew it was there. I wish I had hung on to more of my original window parts, but they were rough anyway.
I'm with Keith on that. Besides looks, there is also a practical issue, those wind wings are great and cool the car down nicely, in hot weather. Having said that, I installed on piece gl*** in my 52 F-1 years ago and it is incredibly easy. The stock mechanism/regulators works great, all you need is one of those flexible felt gl*** channels. Also the tempered gl*** for both windows only cost me $50.
Cool! Weez has a point, but air leaking whistlers are a pain in the *** and cowl vents bring the cool too PLUS, Im 6"4, so I need as much open window ledge as possible to expose my elbow to the elements in the correct, desired, traditional manner!!! I'd always planned to do my own 1-piece, rather than import to Australia from the US (freight costs/certification of gl***). Looking at some installs online has REALLY helped a lot. My biggest concern was if the original wind up mechanisms would work....hey, Dreadman.....did you need to extend/move(recentre) the bracket that the gl*** sits in?????? Hey Oldbeet, do you need to cut anything out of the front upper window frame, or can you just install universal soft C-channel ???? And....can anyone give the measurement for how far the bottom of the NEW front window channel should be located from the inside frame/outside skin of the door (most kits seem to supply a piece of L-bracket at the bottom of the steel C-channel ,where Oldbeet recommended recycling the original Vent window runner)......just to save me having to stuff around to get the window motion squared in the vertical plane
when using laminated gl*** you want the bottom channel to run 1/2" short of end to end. the stock regulators will work fine. just need to cut the metal on the bottom and the front channel needs to be a couple inches lower than the gl*** in the down position. make sure the bottom bracket on the front channel is solid and centers the gl*** same as the rear channel
Hey Oldbeet, do you need to cut anything out of the front upper window frame, or can you just install universal soft C-channel ???? use a 8A-1 black or Y-528 chrome bead channels And....can anyone give the measurement for how far the bottom of the NEW front window channel should be located from the inside frame/outside skin of the door (most kits seem to supply a piece of L-bracket at the bottom of the steel C-channel ,where Oldbeet recommended recycling the original Vent window runner)......just to save me having to stuff around to get the window motion squared in the vertical plane[/quote] make up your front channel attach it at the top (one pop rivit or small sheet metal screw) roll the new window down and pull it just snug (so it will roll nicely) and figure the length of L-bracket, I like 3/16X 1 drilled and tapped. welded or pop rivit to the channel and machine screwed to the door