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'56 Olds needing some stopping ability

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hellbilly_Buzzard, May 26, 2004.

  1. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    I am looking to get my braking performance improved from 60 to 0 in less than 10,000 feet. I know it will take some of the driving fun away. I saw that Fatman Fab makes drop spindles and disc brakes for the ’56 Olds but I heard there needs to be some modifications made. Do they make quality stuff? Has any Olds guy here dropped them onto their ride? What do I need to look out for including the obvious? I don’t want to over looking something and be like Damn, I forgot to get a new master cylinder. I am trying to avoid buying a new front clip, and the car actually handles pretty decent.
     
  2. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

    DON WOW here on the board did a tech special on disc brakes for early Old's.
    I don't know if it is archived or not.
    I saved some of the pics of the swap at home.
     
  3. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    I just checked DON_WOW's archive and it is not there. I would be interested in the pics if you could wrangle them up. I will also drop DON_WOW A PM.

    Thanks
     
  4. I have a complete stock power brake setup for a 55 olds sitting in my shop.Let me know if you want it,cheap......Shiny
     
  5. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    Discs??? PM me with how much $$$ you are looking for. My '56 has a factory brake booster. I have to rebuild my brakes right now so it seems like a good time to upgrade.
     
  6. Crafty
    Joined: Jun 26, 2002
    Posts: 253

    Crafty
    Member
    from UK

    I was told that master power brakes do a kit, but its not cheap and requires the spindles to be modified ( you send them and they'll do it ). Other than that if DON WOW can come up with anything its bound to be a hell of alot cheaper.
    Maybe just replacing the master cylinder & booster with a modern one would be benefical ?
     
  7. Slide
    Joined: May 11, 2004
    Posts: 3,021

    Slide
    Member

    As to Fatman's quality, I have never used their dropped spindles/uprights, but I have installed a couple Fatman MII setups, and assisted in swapping a cherry 40 coupe body onto a fatman frame. In all cases, the workmanship and materials were very good, but the aesthetics are not nearly as elegant as competing products. (Rhinoceros engineering: It ain't pretty, but it's tough!) Of course 50's spindles were never meant to be works of art, and Fatman is often the only player on this field.

    Also, I should mention that Brent has been pretty good to work with in my experience.

    I don't know about the Olds deal, but as to mods on existing parts, I know that the 49-54 Chevy dropped uprights they sell require you to either bend the stock steering arm or purchase their dropped steering arms. You pay for it one way or another. Typically Brent provides some means of getting you what you need, even if it's just a part number to ask for at NAPA.
     
  8. BigDdy31
    Joined: Jul 31, 2002
    Posts: 1,003

    BigDdy31
    Member

    Great topic man. I don't have any tips cuz as you know I am new to Olds but I am watching the replies and hoping to learn a lot.

    I was thinking disc as well but didn't know if it was even possible without clipping the car or spending loads of money.

    I'd love to see the tech article on Olds brakes too if anyone finds it.

    Big Daddy Eric
     
  9. DON_WOW
    Joined: Feb 14, 2002
    Posts: 218

    DON_WOW
    Member Emeritus

    Howdy Hellbilly
    You got e-mail tonite.
     
  10. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    I just got off the phone with Fat Man Fab. For the Olds 2" dropped spindles the want $350 bucks for the pair. The guy I talked to said you have to heat and bend the stearing arms for them to fit. He said if you want the whole disc brake assembly, they go threw a place called Classic Custom Brakes (704) 799-3130. I gave them a call, but just got an answering machine. When I talk to them I will post again.

    DON_WOW did you send that email last night or is coming tonight? I did not see anything in my e-mail this morning.
     
  11. Crafty
    Joined: Jun 26, 2002
    Posts: 253

    Crafty
    Member
    from UK

  12. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    That looks tempting to buy for the fact I can C.A.D. it up and give it to my machinist I use at work to CNC or EDM them out for me. Then turn around and sell the originals. The only problem for me in this is my 88 has the awesome 3.08 one wheel burn rear end which I planned on changing out.
     
  13. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    I really want to thank DON_WOW for the info he sent me. I am posting the info here he sent me.

    First three pics are the front wheel, fourth pic is shot of rear axle.I have 4 wheel disc's on my olds.

    Parts you will need to get are rotors and calipers from a 69 to 76 olds toronado or caddy eldo- they are 5 inch on 5 studs same as your 56 pattern. You will need ten new lug nuts studs at least 1/2 or 3/4 inches longer than stock that the 56 has.Don't try and get left hand thread not needed. Next you need 1/4 inch plate large enough to make two brackets to mount calipers. Maybe new hoses to front calipers and new pads

    You will have to use 15 inch wheels with this deal. If you want to run 14 inch wheels use 77and later toro or eldo parts because rotors are smaller in diameter. Stock rims will work fine. Larger rotors are better on big car and cost is same.

    Here in southern Ill. all this will run around 100 bucks at the bone yard. New stuff might be found at NAPA if you want.

    Master cylinder on 56 will work if you take out check valve in very front of bore. Other wise disc's will not release. Will not change how rear drums work cause they have springs to pull and release. No valve in line to rear drum is needed, if adjusted right, they will not lock up before the fronts. If you go to rear disc's also you will need a proportial valve in line to rear to keep from locking rears first.

    Run a tube into your fill cap on master cylinder to upper part of fire wall to have master full all time and fluid level above front calipers. Make sure to have vent in top lid.

    Tear off front wheel-brake and backing plates. Now you have a bare spindle. Use backing plate to make pattern on 1/4 inch plate so it will bolt on same as the backing plate did.

    Knock drums and studs off of the bearing hub and install new longer studs. Take hub and turn outside diameter a little smaller just so it will let rotor slip over and sit flush.

    Use 24 -26 guage sheet metal or cardboard and make pattern same as backing plate bolt holes, cut U to clear caliper. Put hub on spindle, slip caliper and pads on rotor so they are set right with bleeder on top and mark center for caliper bolts. Transfer pattern to plate cut, drill, and tap, grind and make purdy. Plate bolts on same as backing plate did , hub and bearings are stock ------only now you got disc brakes.

    Same deal for rear only weld bracket to axle to get spacing right.

    Kinda long winded but pics will fill in blanks, I hope. Have done this on 6 different makes of cars, works on about anything .

    My olds at 4000 pounds stops as good as late model new cars.

    Hope this helps you out
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

     

    Attached Files:

  15. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    front pic 3
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    rear brake pic
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Crease
    Joined: May 7, 2002
    Posts: 2,878

    Crease
    Member

    If you want to make it stop cheap just use a midland brake booster. All you have to do is put it inline with the front brakes and run a vacume line. Works great on my huge ol 40'.

     
  18. 56olds-ERDY
    Joined: May 26, 2002
    Posts: 278

    56olds-ERDY
    Member

    cool,
    ive been waiting for that to pop up again.right on!
    ive heard that 66-67 toro neddle bearings/races fit in the hubs.never tried it though.
    eric
     
  19. stresser
    Joined: Oct 20, 2003
    Posts: 55

    stresser
    Member

    anyone know if this switch would work on a 54 buick century,same or different part?? [​IMG]
     
  20. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    From the great Don_Wow in a PM "ALL the cars i have done this mod to , needed the hub reduced in diameter a little,55 chev,58 chev, 51 stude, 50 olds, 53 olds , 61 olds"

    If I have a chance tomorrow, I will go through my interchange catalog and see if anything about the hubs matches up.
     
  21. stresser
    Joined: Oct 20, 2003
    Posts: 55

    stresser
    Member

    thanks that would be great im tryin to locate an intercange manual for a far price myself any info would be awesome
     
  22. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    for the '54 buick

    part | car with same Part # | Part #
    -----------------------------------------------
    spindles - '54 and '55 Buick - 1391617-8

    hubs and drums - '52 thru '56 Buick - 1345845

    Nothing I saw was a direct match to any of the cars that Don_Wow had listed for your '54 Buick, then again mine didn't match those of any of the cars he performed it on also.

     
  23. DON_WOW
    Joined: Feb 14, 2002
    Posts: 218

    DON_WOW
    Member Emeritus

    Hey guys
    You don't change hubs on any of the makes or models , use the hub that is on the car. Just turn down the outside diameter on the hub so it will slip inside the rotor. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
     
  24. Mojo
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,872

    Mojo
    Member

    Great tech, I saved that for later reference!
     
  25. Crafty
    Joined: Jun 26, 2002
    Posts: 253

    Crafty
    Member
    from UK

  26. Will this work on the pontiacs (56) too, or is it a differnt critter altogether?
     
  27. destructo
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 97

    destructo
    Member


    [ QUOTE ]
    Will this work on the pontiacs (56) too, or is it a differnt critter altogether?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I belive 56 olds amd pontiacs used the same inner and outer wheel bearings. If thats the case, it should work.
     
  28. Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Joined: May 5, 2004
    Posts: 454

    Hellbilly_Buzzard
    Member

    I just looked up that place that sales the disc brake kit. The ebayer is trying to cut a profit. Sorry if this is you. [​IMG] You can get it from www.streetrodgarage.com for about $800 bucks.
     
  29. leadsleadolds
    Joined: Jun 7, 2004
    Posts: 1,817

    leadsleadolds
    Member

    I talked to the guys at street rod garage he is using I belive it was calipers from a 76 olds 88 but he said they needed to be modified to work on his set up. I was already tring to find if there was a cheaper way to do it, but really 850 isnt that bad campared to the same kits for other cars.
     
  30. [ QUOTE ]
    cool,
    ive been waiting for that to pop up again.right on!
    ive heard that 66-67 toro neddle bearings/races fit in the hubs.never tried it though.
    eric

    [/ QUOTE ]

    how about this? is it a go or no-go?
     

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