How low is TOO low- progress on my '53 Chevy

As many of you know, I picked up at 1953 Chevy 2dr sedan last fall. The car was built about 30 years ago and is in great shape overall. It has a really neat rare 6 cylinder in it with a Rajo racing head and intake with three carbs.
The original post about the car can be seen here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217200&showall=1
As I mentioned in that post I wanted to do some work to the car to bring it up to date. I was really enamored with the tail draggers I saw last spring in Paso so I decided to go for that look (minus the scraping bumpers).
I figured the first thing I had to do was get it back to stock height so I could go from square one. This involved getting rid of the huge tires and rims, removing the lifting blocks from the front end and putting the rear springs back into a stock position.
The front end set up was ‘interesting’, yet it worked. As you can see in the pictures (where I am pointing) there were two huge blocks of steel holding the whole front end up. It wasn’t very hard to get everything apart, only 16 bolts


Here is another picture of how it came out

And lastly how BIG these blocks actually were (pretty heavy too!)

Now that the blocks were removed the engine was sitting too high. The former owner
rigged up these pipes onto the engine mounts to compensate for the lift.

Here are a couple other close up shots of the pipes. They served their purpose well.


So out came the sawzall! Here is the end result…

I think I am going to make some mounts similar to what was on the motor before, just without the pipes (obviously). I have also toyed with the idea of using a regular 6 cylinder center mount. That’s tonight’s project to figure that out.
After the front was back to stock height I was having so much fun I decided to see what I could do about the back before calling it quits for the night. This is what position they were in at what KustomLincolnLady affectionately refers to as ‘nosebleed height’.

So I had to take the bolts out and let them ‘flip’ back the way they should be. Well when they flipped back around they couldn’t rest right because the brackets were running into the frame. So out came the sawzall, again!

I moved the bolt and cut off the two lower holes I didn’t need. Problem solved.
Once those adjusts were made the car sat like this

Already quite an improvement over this

As you can tell from the two photos above I removed the Weld wheels that were on it along with the giant tires and oh so 70s yellow traction bars. I took them to the local swap meet were they were promptly gobbled up (Ohio is a little behind in times like that ). In the meantime since selling those I had found a nice set of stock ’53 steelies with the little clippies on them and all. They all were still the stock navy blue with skinny gray pinstripe. I had them blasted and they came out pretty nice for sitting outside in a junkyard for who knows how long.

The first thing I did to them was spray can primer them with some self etching primer. I love that stuff…

After I did it though the thought crossed my mind that maybe I shouldn’t have rattle can primered them since I planned to use ‘real’ paint for the next few steps. Everything turned out just fine though in the end. I guess it is something to consider when primering or painting anything….
The ultimate goal for them was to be metalflaked. I have been pouring over Roth metalflake charts for weeks trying to decide what color, what size flake, what shape flake, yadda yadda yadda. I hadn’t even really decided when I went to Alex Gambino’s booth at the GNRS. It was time for a decision. I chose….

Rothrageous Red!
It is a smaller size flake which is what I wanted since I had never shot flake before and wasn’t quite sure how my gun would handle it or how the clear would carry it or anything else.
So I went down to my local paint store, Pavey’s, to pick out a basecoat color that was a comparable color of the flake. The guys at the paint store got a real kick out of my project. They said no one had asked about metal flaking anything for about 25 years! The guy that owns it told me that he would talk people out of it at even the mention of it but he could see that wasn’t going to work with me!
I ended up getting a darker shade of red.

The more basecoat I painted the more excited I got with the thought I would soon be doing my first flake job!

All in all they turned out well (no runs-whew!)

 

Now it was time for the fun part! Like I said earlier, I had never shot any flake before so I really didn’t know what to use, how to mix it, how it was going to stand up, how long between coats, nothing. I am VERY thankful for the advice I got from Alex Gambino when I bought and lowandslow (Donnie) here on the HAMB. These two were lifesavers!
So after work Friday night I got right down to business. I mixed up some clear, threw in some flake in and went to work.





The whole process was a learning experience. I really didn’t know how much flake to put in and I guess there really isn’t a measurement. It all depends what look you are going for. I was going for flake city!

I followed Alex and Donnie’s instructions and kept laying layer after layer of flake until I was happy with the amount. The first few layers were pretty light. I was a little conservative with the flake. Then I accidentally dumped too much in and it ended up being one of those good accidents because then the rims really started to look awesome. I’m not really sure of how many layers of flake I laid but I am sure it was a lot. It took me awhile (and an accident) to really get a grip on how much to put in the clear, how much was coming out, how fast, etc. One I was satisfied with the amount of flake I put two coats of straight clear on them.

Here is the end result (I also learned flake is hard to take pictures of&#8230





I was uber worried about screwing them up mounting the tires so I let them sit all day Sunday and most of the day Monday to dry. Monday night I couldn’t wait to see how my new tires looked on the rims.

I bought four new tires from Coker since I had sold the old ones on the rims (and they weren’t any good anymore and they were GIANT). I got the stock size in BF Goodrich



Fortunately I have access to a tire mounting machine and balancer so I was able to do it myself and be EXTRA careful.



And finally, the finished product!


I am absolutely elated with how they turned out. Now, to put them on the car!

Here is the car at stock height with her new shoes





This car has become an addiction to me as of late so I couldn’t just be happy leaving her like that for the night, time to lower it!

I had already kind of hatched out a plan when I put the springs back to stock height a couple weeks ago on how low I wanted to go so I took some quick measurements of how it sat stock. I then unbolted the U-bolts and used the jack to gauge a 4” drop which is what I have planned. A friend of mine has a machine shop and is milling me up some blocks as I type this. Keep in mind I have skirts I plan to put on as well. Here is how she sits lowered 4”





And my favorite picture



I love the way it looks. It is completely the look I was going for BUT I am kind of worried about clearance issues. Here are a couple shots of the rear end and the axle. As you can see in the pics the snubbers are on the axle (I know, they can be cut) and at my best measurement abilities I think I have 3-3 ½ “ between the top of the rear end and the floorpan of the car.







So, my question is, is that TOO close? Do I need more room for travel? As I mentioned in my earlier post, I really don’t want to have to start chopping the car up and c-notching it and stuff.

My plan right now is to put the blocks in and try it. If it rides like crap I will cut them down to 3”. What do you guys think I should do?

In addition to Alex and Donnie I would also like to thank Youngbuck (Butch) and Tin Indian (Matt F.) for their many sarcastic remarks, sharing of doubts and the ‘help’ they provided in my metal flaking process. Thanks also to Whiskeyrunner (Matt K.) for being my photographer, tool gopher and tight bolt breaker-looser

 

You are so cute!

 

Nads, you're right. She is really hot!

To answer your question, I think you are a bit too low for a lot of driving situations. I hate to say that, but that pumpkin is going to get beat up and that isn't good.

 

Dig the wheels! What size nozzle in the gun???
Now, paint the roof to match!

 

It's gonna ride rough, but it sure looks good sitting like that! You might be able to gain a little travel by clearancing the trunk if the pumpkin is hitting (usually does before it'll hit the frame).

Bryan

 

I'll second Nads, but seriously I hope your dentist is a good one because if you have any loose fillings, they're gonna get shook out. I'd bet that your car is gonna ride really hard as low as it sits. The 3-3 1/2 inches you have under the floor is fine, so long as you don't load the car down with a bunch of friends. You'll have enough travel for you and a friend though in regular driving situations. Since you are competent, you might want to relocate the snubber with a bracket next to the frame rail, so your center section doesn't hit the frame or floor. Or clearance the floor in that one spot, which would be pretty easy

You're doing a great job, and the car looks a hundred times better. Keep it up

 

On a 53 you can really ony go about 4 inches lower than stock before the drive shaft or torque tube starts hitting the floors and the car is basicly riding on the bumpstops. Anymore than that and you are getting into cutting things up. My 53 has 3 inch blocks and worn out leaf springs and it is as low as it will go. No suspension travel, no ride quality at all.

 

I like you. Do you like me? Circle one: YES or NO

 

You beat me to it!

 

wow that car is awesome, and what a turn around you did to that "other" look!!!! it looks like c-notching might be the route you will have to go...where abouts in ohio are you?

 

Can't wait to see the thing, it's too tough to tell the difference in stance without an "on the ground" shot.... when are you wrapping those in rubber?

It's got to look better than higher than though stance with 3 or so inches out of both ends! Ever decide what to do with the glass and trunk lid?

And where the heck is this massive, apparently heated, garage you are working in? Nice digs!

Keep us updated.


Edit.
WOAH! NICE! Let me go back and re-read!

 

those wheels look great! Are you going to run caps of any sort?

Really, it looks good as is... if you lose the mural and the pinstriping around the filler door, that is!

keep going!

 

I love the look of the car that low, but it will hit hard. I have a 54 with 2 1/2 in blocks and if I hit a bump in the road you can really feel it. You should flake the steering wheel to keep the look going. I did that for a club member and it is the same color you are using. You will have a lot of fun with that car.

 

Great looking car Megan, Can't wait to see her down the road. What is more important, ride or look. I know you want to preserve the car but, which will you enjoy more. See ya Dennis. Ps. What ever became of the truck??

 

You aren't missing much. Just some "OK...WTF am I doing wrong here?!?!" on the old style machines for me. Have one, rely on it...hate it.

Car looks tight.

 

had to paint the wheels red . im just kidding they look Great!

 

Yeah you have, I have pictures, you were wearing a girl's cowboy outfit and screaming "git up dogie!!!"

 

What a beautiful car. (and owner)

You remind me a lot of my sister... her thing has always been motorcycles... tear down motors and rebuild them, swap front ends, the whole (custom) deal.

Keep up the great work.

-john

 

There's something about babes and tools, sigh....

My 54 is 4" lower in the rear and I have to see my dentist fairly regularly.

Great job BTW, keep the pics coming

 

Megan, you just did more in this one post than most MALES here do in a whole year! Rock on girl!

 

Without getting into metal to metal contact issues, one thing I've used on a couple of cars that were bottoming out on the hard rubber snubbers was Eaton Detroit Springs progressive snubbers. They work great for softening a harsh ride.

 

WOW!!! I had no IDEA!!! I was about to make a remark regarding blueberry pancakes... I don't feel like this is a joking matter though! VERY nice!! I fully expect a ride in that!!!!

 

that looks sooo much better...

heres breeders chebby, 3" blocks, stock springs and trunk full of crap. the front has dropped uprights and cut coils...really doesnt ride that bad.....

 

I have, but you gotta sneak up behind them real quiet like... drop your pants and...

 

BWAHAHA!!! I just peed...

 

U are dead on here my friend. I just noticed that the stock torque tube is still in there. Me and a buddy did a 53 a few years back with a Nove rear and 3in blocks and with the snubbers cut off it was still rough as a cob. C-notch is definately the answer if ride quality is at all a factor.

 

awesome car, awesome girl, great work, marry me?