How are you guys mounting your rigging to the block to lift the flatheads? I read about a lifting plate in another post while "using the search function" but their wasn't much detail about it or any pictures. I pulled the engine using a tilting rig with 4 chains I connected to the head bolts. I'm worried that when I put it in after I re***emble it I will damage the aluminum finned heads I'm putting on the engine. I'm having it test run on a dyno for breaking and tuning so I don't want to have to take the heads back off for the installation, can I use the intake manifold bolts to lift the engine & transmission for the install? If so, how many should I need to use, 2, 4, or more? Also, can I get away with reusing the intake gasket if it's only been used for the breaking and tuning? Thanks, Todd
Cherry picker - that's how I lift my engines... You "can" bolt to the intake - but you also could rip the bolt out damage the intake. I personally like to use the block. As far as the gasket goes - why take the intake off? If you can keep it in one piece when you take the intake off it may be alright - but I would change it.
I mad a plate that bolts THROUGH the carb flange on a stocker intake. It has an old shock bracket w/ a grade 8 bolt stuck through it welded to the plate (BTW.....it's 1/4", good and strong). Works like a champ with a picker or chainfall.
You could put the old stock heads on just until you get the motor in the car, then switch em' out for the new aluminum heads...
I use the bolts that go through the intake manifold and go into the block. You can even leave the carbs on it. Use a spreader bar to keep the chains straight up and down.
A short chain with a special angle piece on each end with holes that allow you to bolt into the block using the intake hole. Or a plate that fits the manifold surface. Or an old device used in Ford service departments: A piece (Probably mad from an old I-Beam) that looks like an upside down "T".with a chain/hook hole in the verticle leg. Stick down inside the valve chamber and rotate it 90 deg so the the cross of the "T" is under the intake ports. Lift.
Will this lifter bar work if I were to use the intake manifold bolts vice the cylinder head bolts? I need to use the tilt rig to slide the engine and trans in together, will the intake bolts support all that weight? Also, here is a pic of the intake I am going to have on it.
I made a plate that bolts on with 8 intake bolts. Seems to work OK. It keeps the engine sealed up as well. Neal
My flat head lifting rig is an awful lot like NealinCA's. I used a piece of 1/4" plate cut to the same shape as the stock intake manifold using an old gasket as a template. (keeps **** out of the lifter galley) Then drilled every other mounting hole on each side. (I did the end holes then every other) Made TABS that I welded on the corners of the "plate." (a total of four) Then using the TILTER BAR like shown in 1950 Ford's picture, attached the chains to the "tabs", and "Bob's your Uncle!!" (the tilter bar allows for maneuvering the engine with the trans attached) For the adventurous types in the audience, I HAVE pulled a COMPLETE flat head, using ONLY the carburetor bolts!! (just THREE!) A small piece of plate drilled to match the carb base with a hook welded in the center. (oh ... and it was an aluminum intake! And nothing broke!)
Easiest is just a flat plate bolted to 4 or 6 intake bolts (yes, they're fine. Look at an SBC--the two factory lift brackets on there are on one 3/8 bolt* each.) Make 2 holes for an eye bolt, one centered for engine lifting, one back maybe 3" so it will balance with trans on. Niftiest...repro of the KR Wilson original one from the Antique Ford place in Rosemeade, California. This iron piece just rotates into place in the valley, fitting right in, then you drop two steel pins through it into the crossover hole so it can't fall out of place when there's no load on it. Order aluminum replica of KRW engine stand adaptor too while you have them on the phone. Crude and simple--chain, I like to bolt to exhaust flanges and pad where the chain wraps around top because I don't like the twisting load chain seems to impart if put on an intake bolt. Two chains, four bolts. Also soft means like stout rope or woven strap go nicely on stock exhaust manifolds. *don't buy these bolts from Home Depot, though!
I need to move my nearly complete Flathead as well and this thread popped up. Will do as @NealinCA and @Digger_Dave suggested. I only have 3/16” plate on hand, but should be good enough. Will weld a transverse piece front to back with a hole at each end as @Digger_Dave suggested in order to use the engine tilt mechanism.
Here is how I modified a Harbor Freight tilter. The idea was to keep from damaging anything like a valve cover or other engine part when the chains tighten up to lift. It works really well and you can adapt it for transmissions as well.
Nice. Getting there. Not sure if I should add a few gussets. Will mod the Princess Auto engine stand as well to turn it into a engine “test stand”.
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