I need to remove some old Ford brake drums from their hubs. And I would like to save the lug bolts if possible. To do this I will need a "1/2" swedge cutting tool." At one time I guess every garage had one, just like king pin reamers. But that was then and this is now. The only source I can find is here: http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=123&& $70 plus shipping seems steep for a glorified hole saw. Does anyone know about another, more affordable, source. Or another option/method for cutting the swedges?
I wonder if maybe a 5/8" or 11/16" hole saw would work. Just leave out the pilot bit. I think the hole saw blades are usually made from around .050" or .065" steel and they stagger the teeth in and out a little, so maybe a holesaw in the 5/8" or 11/16" OD range would have around 1/2" on the inside of the kerf. There's a set screw to remove the pilot drill bit on most of the good quality hole saws. I think typical holesaws cut a little over 1-1/2" deep, but if the studs are longer than that, maybe you could use one of the extra long holesaws.
This is exactly how I separate the drums from the hubs. I bought a good hole saw Milwaukee brand. Can't remember the size. I'd have to go to my shop and look for it. I bought 2 'cause I wasn't sure which one I needed. Cut through the drum until you just hit the hub. Hit the hub with a dead blow hammer and presto, they're apart.
The description of that Goodson one suggests that it is 1/2" bore, and cuts away the stud to save the drum - which under normal circumstances I guess is the logical way. If you want to cut the drum away to release it from the stud then a hole saw with a suitable inside diameter makes sense. Slip a piece of aluminium, brass, or copper tube sized for the saw I/D over the stud to keep the saw concentric with the stud.
Just an assumption on my part, but if he wants the hub removed from the drum....the drum is probably not any good.
Yes, the drums are used up. I have half a dozen sets out in the shop and most of the drums are way out of spec. But the hubs are still serviceable. Vaphead, and others sell new production drums that will slip on over the stock studs once the swedge has been cut away and the old drums removed. Why Henry chose to swedge his brake drums on is beyond me. He was cheap and this had to add an unnecessary cost. I'll mess around a bit with hole saws and see what I come up with.
so with the drum cut off of the hub you can just install regular studs and run vapheads repo drums on the stock hub?
Yes. Dick Spadaro (a HAMBer) and the other antique Ford part vendors sell new studs. And if you intend on doing that then you can grind or drill the heads off the stock lug bolts and drive them out from the rear. Never press them out from the front. The swedge will damage the hub as it passes through. Here is the trick. If you use a swedge cutter and your lug bolts are in good condition you do not have to replace them. Simply put the repop drums on over the old studs. No swedging required. The issue for me is the $70 cost of the swedge cutter. You can buy a lot of lug bolts for that amount of money. I think Vaphead has the best deal on repop hubs - if you are an Alliance member. 10 percent off and free shipping (as I recall). On a set of four you can save the price of a membership.
Steve, you can't use the oem studs with the new slip on drums. I bought my drums from Eric. Eric pointed me to CG Ford Parts for the new studs which work fine. Btw...Dick confirmed this a few months back, but he didnt have the newer ones. However, he was more than helpful.
YOU CAN REUSE THE DRUM AFTER REMOVING IT WITH THE HOLESAW TECHNIQUE. Here's why: Yes, the lug nut hole in the drum will be oversize, BUT the drum pilots (centers) on the hub, NOT the lug nut studs. Once the wheel is installed, the clamping force of the lug nuts prevents the movement of the drum. Now, if you're still a non-believer in the above, then just do what is done by alot of the OEs. They use a countersunk flathead bolt to hold the drum to the hub or axle flange. And that's done primarily so the drum doesn't fall off when changing a rim and tire. Here's why: Can ya' see "Freddie Fumbles", his nagging wife and car load of hot yelling kids on the side of the interstate with a flat tire. Poor old Freddie unloads all their shit to get out the spare and jack. After removing the lug nuts, that were installed by Bubba at the tire shop with the impact wrench set at max torque, he pulls the rim and tire off. The drum comes off with the rim and all the brake dust get blown into his face by a passing double tractor trailer. Poor "Freddie Fumbles" now becomes "Frantic Freddie" 'cause he doesn't know what the hell happened and/or how to fix it. The car starts to move on the jack after a triple tractor trailer passes by with a blast of air that would make hurricane Katina proud. He yells to his nagging wife to put on the brakes so the car won't roll. OOPS, we have just fucked up DELUXE!!!!!!!!!!! Poor old "Freddie Fucked" was last seen being hauled off in the back of the HighWay Patrol car in a straight jacket. This is probably the same reason why Henry swedged the drum to the hub. It was also probably a labor saver on the assembly line. Now I know the fit of the holes in the drum to the stud is real close on OE fitments, but once the clamping force of the 5 lug nuts is applied, where's it gonna' go??
Yesterday I was in a dilemma of sorts, I was redoing the brakes on my wife's grandpa's car and wasn't totally sure what to do with disassembly of the original 1964 Ford Fairlane front hub. Did a search and found this post, went back to the shop and as luck would have it "for a change" I had a 5/8 hole saw (and it was new, I used a piece of copper tubing that I had to split to help center the hole saw, it was quick and easy, something I had not looked forward to doing. Having a drill press made it pretty simple, thanks to the original folks that posted this!!
The Jalopy Journal
