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Model painting ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by max wedge, Feb 11, 2008.

  1. So I just bought this willys kit from Revell and was trying to figure out what color to paint it. I thought maybe I could just do like a work in progress willys g***er and paint it bare metal. I found some Metal masters stainless steel spray paint, thought maybe that would work. My ? is could I get micro sanding marks to show through the paint like it has been sanded down to bare metal?
    [​IMG]
    Got the pic from here:
    http://www.revell.com/catalog/products/1_25_Scale_Stone_Woods_Cook_Willys_Drag_Racer-378-6.html
     
  2. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    i just built that same kit about 2 weeks ago, when i get home from school tonight ill post a picture of it. I painted mine testors "Lime Ice" green, i also tinted the side and back gl*** blue...
     
  3. If you use any of the metallizer series paints, make sure you buy the clearcoat for that system. The paint lays down very thin. You can also buff with a cotton ball to polish. Neat stuff.
     
  4. littlechris
    Joined: Jan 17, 2006
    Posts: 198

    littlechris
    Member
    from MILWAUKEE

    Aaron,

    You could try layering different steel tones and try sanding it after you paint it with 1200 grit. sanding the paint would get rid of the luster, form grain patterns, and when you break through, the other shades would contrast the high areas.
     
  5. Zig Zag Wanderer
    Joined: Jul 6, 2007
    Posts: 563

    Zig Zag Wanderer
    Member

    max, you could bare metal foil the body, clearcoat, wet sand with like 400 grit, re-clear with a "wash" of clear with a couple drops of flat brown or black to highlight the scratches. do a test piece first to see how you like it. btw, o/t to the thread, but i really dig your knuckel Drager thang. i've seen you guys a couple times, once opening up for **** Dale in 2005.
     
  6. You mean use steel, stainless, gun metal...? The place I went to didn't have to many different colors.


    Foil! that sounds hard. Please explain that one.
    Thanx! Can't belive we're still at it.
     
  7. hemi
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 1,959

    hemi
    Member

    Buy a die-cast and sand it down. :D
     
  8. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    here's mine...for some reason when i built it, the scoop barely sticks out of the hood...and the front tires **** ill probably change them...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Sour Kraut
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 72

    Sour Kraut
    Member

    If you are looking for a real good product to simulate bare metal, give Alclad a try www.alclad2.com. I build model trucks and sell resin conversions and detail parts for them www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.com
    Alclad is the best product I have found yet, make sure you follow the directions to the letter.
     
  10. philo426
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 2,097

    philo426
    Member

    Candy Apple red is nice![​IMG]
     
  11. What does an oz of that Alclad paint go for?
    Your links are broken, try these:
    www.alclad2.com
    www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.com
     
  12. littlechris
    Joined: Jan 17, 2006
    Posts: 198

    littlechris
    Member
    from MILWAUKEE

    Yea, you probably don't have to use that many layers. the more paint you build up, the more detail the paint hides. do a couple test pieces. It's also probably a less expensive technique. With the alclad paints I think you need a base coat. from what I understand they work as a 'Candy' to simulate chrome and other metal effects.
     
  13. Zig Zag Wanderer
    Joined: Jul 6, 2007
    Posts: 563

    Zig Zag Wanderer
    Member

    yes, foil takes some practice, it's pretty delicate, but cheaper than Alclad. basically, you cut a section of Bare Metal Foil from a sheet and rub on the back side of the backer sheet to transfer onto the part; start at a crevice and really work it in with the backer still on, but dont work the opposite end of the sheet in yet. lift the backer sheet gently away and work the foil into the crevice and then smooth the foil working slowly and gently outward with the end of a stiff paintbrush. those stamped steel handled acid brushes used for applying soldering flux work pretty good. slightly overlap your sections. big panels could prove kinda tricky. i guess if i was going to do a Willys body i'd start with the roof at the header over the windshield, cut about 1/4" larger than you need all the way around, work back and down.
     
  14. I'm building this while watching TV in bed (the H-bomb is still at Austin Speed shop) Haha! I don't want to get to involved with it but I'd like it to kinda cool.
     
  15. HotRodPaint.com
    Joined: Nov 24, 2007
    Posts: 422

    HotRodPaint.com
    Member

    Don't forget to leave the front end a semigloss black, like fibergl***. Very few of these had steel front ends, unless they wanted the weight to run a low cl***.
     
  16. The fenders are part of the body on that kit but I'm gonna make it an all-steel one, pre gl*** era anyway.
     
  17. theflame
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 169

    theflame
    Member

    I sell Alclad in my shop, PM me if you want a deal on some of that...though I'm in the UK so it might be cheaper to buy locally anyway....
     
  18. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

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