You are very welcome, the workmanship looks better on camera thank goodness My body started life as a fordor sedan, I used the cowl & front doors, ond built the rear quarter panels and back panels using a simple box tubing form that I skinned with sheetmetal. And then adapted 28/29 roadster windshield stanchions and a 32 chopped roadster windshield frame. I used a tudor repop door skin for the rear quarters, and used the beltline from the rear doors on the top of the rear quarters. I will search thru pics tonight and post a couple body pics if it would help out. I am the same as you , I sifted thru MANY posts here on the Hamb and found lots of ideas that helped me out. Here is a small pic of the car in its earlier never finished version. The rear of the fordor body was beat. Then I found a tudor sedan body(my next project) and started chopping this up to what it is now. I didn't end up using that ch***is or anything, pretty much just the cowl & doors. It was a learning experience Dan
I think you are being very modest. Cameras can only do so much. And believe me.. I have zoomed in a lot to get detail. Looks good. I'd really appreciate it if you did post more pics of the build. One thing that would help a major amount is a measurement. The box that I'm putting together was totally in pieces and major rotted. I've been able to figure most things out so far. However, for some reason, someone cut the rear "U channel" in two. I sure would like to know the width of that thing so I can weld it back together after I repair it. I have the tailgate for measurement but I hate to "trial and error" it. Learning experience? Oh ya. For sure. I did bodywork for a living for years but building this truck is a whole 'nuther ball of wax. I have a cowl and one bad door. Other than that.. nada for the cab. I want this to be my main ride so a closed cab is needed. I'm building an English Wheel so I can TRY to make the back of the cab. No real donor peices around here except for someone who thinks they have a peice of gold. Yup.. this message board was the best thing I've found on the computer. Thanks for your info and good luck on the build, Joe
Thanks again Joe! There is a TON of great info to be found here. I have learned many great thing from searching through to threads too. I will be at my shop today, and I will be glad to measure my bed for you. I will measure the U-channel, and the length/width of the whole thing too. If you end up needing new parts to replace portions of it, Brookville does now sell every piece individually for the Model A beds too, so that might help if some of yours is unusable.
Thanks man, it is all migged, and my welding is acceptable. Far from the appearance of tig, but it ends up being usable and strong. My trusty Miller 210 has run many miles of welds, and has been bulletproof for me. The biggest thing that helps out the appearance of my welds is spending a little extra time prepping & cleaning the parts, and most importantly fitting them nicely. No matter how good of a weldor one is, if the fit-up is sloppy, the weld will look sloppy too. This alone has made my welding results come out way better, and make me look better than I am I do have a Miller Syncrowave tig that my dad got for me, and I love it. But, I don't have the seat time with it yet to feel as confident as I do with the mig. I NEED to make the time for this though, I know once I got comfortable that I would probably tig about everything. Thanks again for the nice words Dan
Nice work, I really like the quarter eliptical rear. I am kinda thinking I may do that with mine. The way your truck is coming along really looks great keep it up.
I wish I could get my mig to look like that!! I'm just not that good. Yes please... a simple measurement of the u-channel will help me greatly. I see that I can buy the parts for a number of sources now but money just doesn't exist at this time. I'm doing this on the cheap and have some parts, a fair bit of steel to use and a good price on mig wire. I also want to be able to say that I rebuilt these parts. The next best thing would be to make them from scratch but I want the old tin in there for "soul". Now.. if I had bucks and wanted it going NOW I would buy parts. Maybe next project (***uming I get this one on the road).
Nothing at all wrong with fixing what you have Hey man, I got that measurement for you. The inside-to-inside dimension of the u-channel is 40 3/4" wide-hopefully that helps a bit. If you need any other dimensions, let me know Dan
Dan, I talk to you Dad on the CHR forum every once in awhile... All I can say it must be in the blood, all of your work is very professional and amazing..Hats off to you and your family... Keep up the great work.. Harmon
That's great Dan! Thanks a bunch. It's a lot better than trial and error fitting a bunch of prieces that are flopping around, since it's the piece that stops them flopping around! I really appreciate it. Can't wait to see the next run of pictures. Joe
I think your work is SUPER GOOD so tell dad to stay on your *** & giter Done!!!! Great Metal work! Clean Looking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "Pickle Dilley" Va.
That is some fabulous work. It these kind of posts that teach us all the meaning of detail and creativity. Be sure your roof line is high enough. The cut of it is perfect to the proportions but be sure your going to be confortable in there with a good view. The reason I noticed this is because its similar to the cut of my roof on my RPU. It definitely was not comfy with my neck crooked on long rides.
you make me feel terrible by telling me that took only a month... something like that would take me a few years...
I like your truck. Did you make the rear frame rails yourself? If they were purchased, who are they made by? Thanks, Tony
Nice work . I've seen you truck project from shots your Dad posts on CHR. Nice work. Looking foward to watching this build.
Nice I am working on coverting a tudor in to an extended cab PU. Can I ask were you got your bed from?
Wow, sorry I missed these questions, but thanks for the support Thanks a ton! I love your rpu, you need to post more pics of that. I agree with you, if it looks good, but makes it impossible to drive it's not worth it. Once I get a little further along and fit the top bows, I will mock up some plastic sheeting over the bows to make sure that I can see and be somewhat comfortable. The roof on you rpu is just what I wanted though, I just hope it works out Tony, I got the rear frame rails bent up from Autoweld Ch***is in PA. They are great to deal with, and the time I would have spent pie cutting tubing & rewelding it would have been a nightmare. The 2 rear rails were $500, and I still had to section them a bit, but they made it much easier The bed is from Brookville, also a Hamb Alliance vendor. They still gave my the Alliance discount on the bed, which alone more then paid for the membership. I have gotten a ton of use from it. My bed is a full length Model A bed, they also offer a shortened version too
It was 10% off the normal price of everything, a KILLER deal for sure. I got mine with everything except the floor kit, since mine won't have a floor in it
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